From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
Rock Type Quarried Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time
Area Inland Limestone
WGS-84 Location 51.825688, -3.311231
OS Grid Ref. SO 097 149
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation 462 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction Various
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type
Crags Within 10.0 km

Abertysswg, Baltic Quarry, Bridge Cliff, Buckland Hill, Cefn Coed - East, Cefn Coed - West, Craig Y Castell, Craig Y Castell Western Extension, Cwm, Dan-y-Darren Quarry, Darren Fach, Darren Fawr, Dyffryn Crawnon, Gimp Cliff, Llangynidr Quarry, Morlais Quarries, Taf Fechan, Trefil, Twynau Gwynion Quarries, Vaynor



This small pillar of rock located centrally in Trefil Quarry is surprisingly solid and adorned with a reassuring amount of natural protection. The rock is generally clean and routes follow natural lines. Although the routes are concentrated they are all independent lines. Some routes were climbed on sight and others received light cleaning with hand and nut key where there was significant loose rock. A few cracks were cleared of mud. The tower is essentially a pinnacle. A careful scramble across the crest leads to a step down and then steep scramble down loose ground that leaves you at the base of the crag again. Instead a full weight loop of climbing rope was tied around the summit block which provides a lower off for most routes or abseil descent. This rope will now almost 3 years old so care will be required as this rope continues to age. Most routes are well or adequately protected but the starts of routes 4 and 5 are bolder and route 1 is bolder at half height. Ascending all the routes would provide a pleasant afternoon's climbing.



Small Pillar

Topo Trefil small pillar.jpg
  1. Le Nez - E1,5a
    Start just left of the prow where the butress meets a slab and forms a crack. Follow this until it's possible to step right into the discontinuous groove line in the nose of the butress. This leads to the summit of the tower with the crux passing the overhang at mid height. A striking line. 13m.

  2. Jawline - VS,4c
    Climb the clean and well defined crack to the right of the crest of the buttress. Where the crack ends step left and finish directly to stand on top of the tower. 13m.

  3. Cracktacus - HVS,5b
    Climb the next crack right to half height. A series of horizontal cracks now allow the steep arête to be climbed directly to the top of the tower. 12m.

  4. Victory V - HVS,5b
    Slightly bold and technical moves lead up the right side of the short arête. The continuation groove is more amenable but a little loose. 11m.

  5. The Aneurin Way - HVS,5b
    Climb the scoop between the short arête and the crack to the right boldly using small holds. Follow discontinuous cracks leadig up and through a break in the overhang to finish directly. 10m.

  6. Free at the Point of Use - HVS 5a
    Ascend the blunt arête to the right of the wide crack and continue steeply but on positive holds in a direct line to the top. 9m.

  7. Mushroom Wall - VS,4b
    Make athletic moves to the ledge half way. Continue to the top via the layback flake. Short but worthwhile. Look out for the fossilized mushroom but take care to leave it in place. 8m.

First Ascents

Small Pillar

  1. Pete Blackburn & Paul Tucker 29th June 2014
  2. Pete Blackburn & Paul Tucker 29th June 2014
  3. Paul Tucker & Pete Blackburn 29th June 2014
  4. Paul Tucker & Pete Blackburn 29th June 2014
  5. Pete Blackburn & Paul Tucker 29th June 2014
  6. Pete Blackburn & Paul Tucker 29th June 2014
  7. Paul Tucker & Pete Blackburn 29th June 2014