Andy Meek on
Muppet Filter, 6b+/c
BOLTING POLICY
Bridge Cliff - Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.
PREAMBLE
The crag is carboniferous limestone that has been extensively quarried. Over recent times the cliff has started to become very vegetated. This has meant that many routes from previous generations are currently overgrown. Some should stay that way, but others would benefit from a clean. Occasionally, dedicated local climbers clean up a batch of routes and routes such as Bifid.
Considerable interest has been shown recently (2019) in both Bridge Cliff, and western side of the crag. Routes have been cleaned, some have been retro-bolted and there are new routes too,
Cefn Coed - BANNED. "Climbing is currently banned at this venue - it lies within a local Nature Reserve and a legally designated SSSI. It has been reported that climbers have recently cleared vegetation, placed lower off bolts and the clearance of mature trees to re-develop the site, without consultation or permission from the either land owners (local authority) or the Wildlife Trust, all potentially illegal activities within an SSSI, have led to them to take this action."
See BMC RAD https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=2177
Climbs are recorded on these pages for posterity and for if, and when, the situation changes.
In the meantime, it is hoped that climbers approach the relevant bodies with a view to re-establishing climbing at this historic climbing venue.
ACCESS
Approaching from Cardiff on the A470 turn R at the McDonalds Fairy Towers roundabout just before the A465 Merthyr.Proceed downhill,turn L at first traffic lights and continue until the clock tower,turn L past Cyfartha park. Take a R following sign for Prince Charles Hospital then immediately L into Lakeside Gardens. Park near the red letterbox than walk down to the river. Follow the path right for 5 mins to the crag.
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DESCENTS
Either by gullies, LOs or by abseil.
Pages in category ‘Cefn Coed’
The following 3 pages are in this category, out of 3 total.
