|Rock Type||Quarried Carboniferous Limestone|
|Approach Time||10 minutes|
|WGS-84 Location||51.781806, -3.4038332|
|OS Grid Ref.||SO 032 101|
|WGS-84 Parking Location||51.772690, -3.3971465|
|GR Parking Location||SO 036 091|
|Parking Postcode||CF48 2NR|
|Base Elevation||372 metres (SRTM Estimation)|
|Seepage||Needs a short dry spell|
|Crags Within 10.0 km.|
Baltic Quarry, Bridge Cliff, Cefn Coed - East, Cefn Coed - West, Cefnpennar, Dan-y-Darren Quarry, Darren Fach, Darren Fawr, Dyffryn Crawnon, Morlais Quarries, Taf Fechan, Trefil, Troedyrhiw, Twynau Gwynion Quarries, Upper Mountain Ash, Vaynor
|6b - 6c+||10|
|7a - 7b||3|
GR: SO 03254 10171
Latitude : 51.781806 Longitude : -3.4038332
Postcode (nearest) : CF48 2LE
A huge, rambling quarry, adjacent to the new Sweetwater residential estate, Trefechan.
Its soooo... big, there has to be some good climbing there, innit?
Get to Merthyr Tydfil. At the roundabout on the A465/A470 intersection, head towards Abergavenny on the A465. Take the first left, signposted Cefn Coed. Cross the staggered T-junction and continue about a mile. Enter Trefechan village and park on the main road, just past the Sweetwater Park turning on the left (you just missed it if you leave the village and see the gated quarry entrance) where there is a wide footway.
Park at SO 03696 09148 or Lat 51.772690, Long -3.3971465.
Follow the road and jump over the quarry fence where the footway ends. Descend through the conifer hedge. Much quicker for Entrance Walls, but try to avoid being seen.
For Sweetwater Wall, park on the Sweetwater Park junction, follow it uphill to the sign-posted footpath on the left. This path passes between and around the back of the houses for a few hundred metres before meeting a gateway onto the moor. Go through the gate and follow the path to the right, leading to the top of the quarry. Keep walking for 5 mins, skirting the quarry's wire fenceline on the right, until you see the golf course up to the left. Soon, a perpendicular fenceline interrupts the path, pass through the fallen gateway and a boulder soon becomes visible on the right, over the quarry fence (abseil into Sweet Water Wall). It is possible to continue walking until the northern end of the quarry is reached and numerous disused roadways can be used to access the various tiers.
All sports routes have bolted lower offs.
The entrance walls are situated around and above the abandoned quarry buildings and are the earlier (Pre-WW2) workings. Shady and gets midgy.
These climbs are in the bottom corner of the quarry, directly below the main road.
- Save a Bit of Light - Fr. 6b+
Left side of the flat wall. Lower off in groove to right, shared with the next route. 2 Staples. 8 m.
- Robots of Tokyo - Fr. 6a+
Flake/arête on the right side of the flat wall. 3 bolts. 8 m
- Mr 10% - Fr. 6a
The boss of rock, coming in from ledges on the right. 2 bolts. 8 m.
The next few routes are on an obvious short, wide, vertical white wall with spaced pockets.
- Blast Tyrant - Fr. 6b *
Left side of the near vertical wall via pocket. Steep block and left side of finishing slab. 4 bolts. 8 m.
- Earth Rocker - Fr. 6b+
Second bolt line. Thin lower wall (font 6a/+) then over the roof onto a finishing slab. Shared L.O. 4 bolts. 8 m.
- Mek-Quake - Fr. 6a
Centre of the near vertical face and crackline (font 5). Get stood in two mega-pockets to finish. 3 bolts. 7 m.
- Seismic Shock - Fr. 6b
The thin crackline (font 5+/6a). 2 bolts. 6 m.
- Dave - The Warm Up Sessions - Fr. 6b+
Left hand side of the long horizontal pockets (font 6a+). 2 bolts. 6 m
- Earth Mover - Fr.6a+
Right hand side of the long horizontal pockets. 5 m.
- Traverse Of The Cads-Fr .?
leftward hand traverse of wall.
The high vegetated plateau (ballast reserves) accesses the north-west walls. Sunny only in the morning. This area gets very midgy by midday.
- Bubblegum Crack - Fr. 6a+ *
Pink flowstone crack splitting the front of the white buttress. 5 bolts, 10 m.
- Work in Progress
The white overhanging wall.
- Xenomorph - Fr. 6b **
Left side of the arête up white flowstone, shared bolts with Even Flow, to a tricky step back left above the overlap. Finish up the exposed arête. 8 bolts, 18 m.
- Even Flow - Fr. 6b **
Long flowstone covered wall, starting just right of the arête of the buttress. 7 bolts, 18 m.
- Cherub Rock - Fr. 6b+ *
The cracks right of Even Flow. Needs brushing after winter but this is easy from shared lower off. 7 bolts, 18 m.
NEW VAYNOR QUARRIES
Following the internal road ever upwards, there are two quarries. The western quarry is undeveloped and you may not even notice it, as it is separate, and only accessed by a right turn off the internal road. The eastern quarry is the vast wasteland you are confronted with as you crest the steep taracadam road, this is where the current routes lie.
The pit. Usually has a shallow pond filling its northern end.
Hard routes. Never midgy.
After the steepest incline on the old taracadam road, take the track left through some boulders blocking the way.
As the track widens out and the drop to the right of the path ends, look up on the right. This wall is the slightly overhanging crystal sheet. Quality stuff, definitely worth a look. No shade after midday. Never midgy.
- Smash It Up - Fr. 6b
Start at a pile of boulders on the quarry floor (20 m right of the arête). Head up to the obvious long layaway, which permits passage through the roof and a lower off in the niche. 3 bolts, 8 m.
- Nitro (Youth Energy) - Fr. 7b *
Leftwards extension to Smash. Step left from the niche and launch up the center of the over vertical head wall. 8 bolts, 18 m.
- What the Thunder Said - Fr. 7b+ **
The rightwards extension to Smash hosts big moves, pockets and crystals. Massive move to finish. 8 bolts, 18 m.
- Peripheral Thinking - Fr. 7a+ **
Simply link Thunder into Nitro via the obvious ledge. Avoids the crux of either route and is nicely sustained. Extended quick-draws very useful. 20 m.
This is the obvious blank sheet at the back of the quarry. Can be wet after rain. Looks a bit scary as the routes start properly after some blocky low angle stuff.
- Proj - Fr. 8a ?
Woah! Needs super flake removing.
- Proj - Fr. 7b+ ?
Staples, directly above the bolted access pitch.
- The Unbearable Lightness of Being - Fr. 7a+/7b *
Starts on the half height ledge and twin staples. Force your way up the intricate lower wall and, with some difficulty, transfer into the faint sharp groove line above. 4 Staples. 10 m.
Nowt yet, but the west wall is continuous.
TIER 4 - Sweetwater Wall
High up and hard to spot due to the scale of the place. It is best to abseil in as there is a big scree slope beneath it, which would be foolhardy to cross.
- Project - Fr. 7a ? *
The left hand line. A steep and reachy start leads to pumpy finish on good holds. 12 m.
- Lactic Crack - Fr. 6c *
The central line starts up staples. After stepping on the wall, make a short rightwards traverse and head up the crack line splitting the tube. Super sustained British 5b climbing. 6 bolts, 12 m.
- Project - Fr. ?
The right hand line. 12 m.
- Project - Fr. 7b+ ?
The far right hand, super steep line. 12 m.
- Save a Bit of Light - W.Calvert, A.Rosier - 21/07/2017
- Robots of Tokyo - A.Rosier, R.Thomas - 06/07/2017
- Mr 10 % - A.Rosier, W.Calvert - 16/07/2017
- Blast Tyrant - A.Rosier, R.McAllister - 03/07/2017
- Earth Rocker - A.Rosier, R.McAllister - 03/07/2017
- Mek-Quake - A.Rosier, R.McAllister - 03/07/2017
- Seismic Shock - A.Rosier, W.Calvert - 06/07/2017
- Dave - The Warm Up Sessions - W.Calvert, A.Rosier - 06/07/2017
- Earth Mover - - R.Thomas - 24/08/2019
- Reserved - R.Thomas, - //201
North West Walls
- Bubblegum Crack - A.Rosier, R.McAllister - 11/06/2017
- Work in Progress
- Xenomorph - R.McAllister, A.Rosier - 13/08/2017
- Even Flow - R.McAllister, A.Rosier - 11/06/2017
- Cherub Rock - R.McAllister, A.Rosier - 13/08/2017
TIER 1 (The Pit)
TIER 2 (Lower Tier)
- Smash It Up - A.Rosier, W.Calvert - 18/06/2017
- Nitro (Youth Energy) - A.Rosier, W.Calvert - 22/06/2017
- What the Thunder Said - A.Rosier. D.Howard - 27/09/2018
- Peripheral Thinking - D.Howard. A.Rosier - 27/09/2018
- PROJECT - W.Calvert - //2017
- PROJECT - W.Calvert - //201
- The Unbearable Lightness of Being - W.Calvert, A.Rosier - 06/07/2017
TIER 3 (Middle Tier)
TIER 4 (Sweetwater Wall)
- PROJECT - W.Calvert - //2017
- Lactic Crack - A.Rosier, W.Calvert - 02/06/2017
- PROJECT - - //2017
- PROJECT - - //2017