Cefn Coed - West

From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
Cefn Coed - West
The Great Wall
The Great Wall
Rock Type Quarried Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Sport/Trad
Approach Time 10 minutes
Area Inland Limestone
Sub Area Cefn Coed
WGS-84 Location 51.764481 -3.4002147
OS Grid Ref. SO 034 082
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.761539, -3.398563
GR Parking Location SO 035 079
Parking Postcode CF48 1EW
Base Elevation 216 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction North
Aspect Rarely Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Crags Within 10.0 km

Baltic Quarry, Bridge Cliff, Cefn Coed - East, Cefn Coed - West, Cefnpennar, Cwmaman Main, Cwmaman West, Dan-y-Darren Quarry, Darren Fach, Darren Fawr, Deri, Dyffryn Crawnon, Morlais Quarries, Mount Pleasant (X2), Mountain Ash, Mountain Ash Natural Buttress, Mountain Ash West, Sheriff Quarry - Maerdy, Taf Fechan, Trefil, Troedyrhiw, Twynau Gwynion Quarries, Upper Mountain Ash, Vaynor

RAD Notice/Restriction Cefn Coed - West@BMC RAD

The Routes

Main Wall West

Cefn Coed - BANNED.
"Climbing is currently banned at this venue - it lies within a local Nature Reserve and a legally designated SSSI. It has been reported that climbers have recently cleared vegetation, placed lower off bolts and the clearance of mature trees to re-develop the site, without consultation or permission from the either land owners (local authority) or the Wildlife Trust, all potentially illegal activities within an SSSI, have led to them to take this action."

See BMC RAD https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=2177

Climbs are recorded on these pages for posterity and for if, and when, the situation changes.

In the meantime, it is hoped that climbers approach the relevant bodies with a view to re-establishing climbing at this historic climbing venue.

To the right of Root the Central Descent is flanked by two prominent buttresses separated by a steep grass gully. To the right of this is the start of Main Wall West. Further right is a fence and a prominent pine tree overhanging the top of the cliff, below which is the obvious line of Bifid.

  1. Diane 21m VS,4c
    Climb a steep crack in the right-hand buttress and wander off up and left to finish.

  2. Aphrodite 21m HVS,5a
    The wall right of Diane.

  3. Icarus Pillar 15m VS,4c
    Start right of Aphrodite. Climb up to a large bay, then move rightward up the overhanging crack to the top.

  4. Finale 33m VS,4b
    Start right of Icarus Pillar at an indefinite groove. Climb up to a cave, a large ledge and slabs, then step right onto the wall and finish over the overhang.

  5. Mr.Noah 30m S
    Start right of Finale and cut straight through it to a corner crack.

  6. Strand 27m VD
    Climb a short v-groove to the right of Mr. Noah to gain a grass ledge. Climb the obvious corner/crack on the right to the top of a pinnacle.

  7. Embassy 30m VS
    A wandering wall to the right of Strand.

  8. Hamlet 30m VS
    Start right of Embassy and follow two corners. Finish up a groove and steep wall past a spur of rock on the left.

  9. Condor 30m VS 1pt
    The corner systems right of Hamlet, PA, exiting at will.

  10. Venus 30m VS,4c
    Climb a prominent open corner right of Condor and beneath a massive overhanging block. Avoid this on its left, then climb a further corner and finish up further blocks.

  11. Lyre 30m HVS,5a
    As for Venus but avoid the block on its right and finish up and right.

  12. Queen Bee 30m HVS,5a
    Right of Lyre is a large triangular overhang. Gain this from a crack, then wander up the walls above.

  13. Lute 30m D
    From the start of Queen Bee follow a line of easy ledges up right to a wide crack. Step right onto a ledge then left onto a chockstone and finish up a crack.

  14. Land Waster 36m VS,4b
    A right to left traverse linking up the top of Lute to the top of Finale.

  15. Fred Carno 24m HVS,5a
    Start 4m right of Lute. Climb short walls and short grooves to the final overhang. Move right then escape left.

    To the right of Fred Carno is a cave.

  16. Hells Teeth 24m HVS,5a
    Climb a short corner just left of the cave, then step left to ledges. Follow a shallow corner for 2m, then step left onto an overhung slab. Climb the subsequent overhang on its right.

  17. Knuckleduster 24m HVS,5b
    Climb to the first ledge on Hells Teeth then diagonally right past a tree to a cave. Climb an overhanging crack and chimney above to a roof, then move back into the crack and over a roof. Finish up and left.

  18. The Fang 26m E2,5b
    Start below and right of the cave. Climb a wall to the cave, traverse right and move onto the wall just right of a downward pointing spike. Climb a thin crack then a small corner to another horizontal crack. Traverse right to the arete and finish via a sloping ledge.

  19. Spelaean 30m VS,4b *
    To the right of The Fang is a prominent bottomless corner. Gain this from the left, climb it to the overhang and exit leftward to a steep wall and the top.

  20. What A Waste 30m HVS,5b
    Climb the wall 3m right of Spelaean to an overhang. Gain a small corner up and left. Follow this until it is possible to move right to a ledge. Continue up a shallow corner and wall to the top.

  21. Soup Dragon 29m VS,4b
    Climb the wall 8m right of Spelaean, then move up right into a crack/chimney. Finish up a short wall.

  22. The Music Tree 27m VS,4b
    The short wall, corner and chimney just right of Soup Dragon.

  23. Project

    Topo cefn coed main wall west right.jpg
  24. The Iron Chicken 29m HVS,4c *
    The obvious vegetated crack right of Music Tree. Finish leftward.

  25. Project

  26. The Throwback 24m E2,5c *
    Start just right of The Iron Chicken at an obvious corner capped by a roof. Climb direct to the roof, over it on the left, then step right to finish.

  27. The Sharp Alternative 24m E3,5c
    The crackline right of The Throwback.

    To the right, just by the fence, is the obvious groove of Bifid. The buttresses here are cleaner and well defined. Towards the left end of the buttress is a prominent crack.

  28. Walter Mitty 32m VS,4c *
    Gain the prominent crack climb it, then gain a ledge. Finish up the steep wall to a tree. Cleaned and re-climbed May, 2019

  29. Project

  30. Linda's Wall 33m E4,6a *
    Start as for Walter Mitty. Traverse right onto the wall to a ledge then climb the long shallow scoop. TR. Move up right to gain the horizontal break and traverse left to a PR below the overhang. Now sprint for the ledge 3m above the overhang and then the top. Well done.

    Topo cefn coed great wall.jpg

  31. Alex In Wonderland 30m E4,6a *
    A difficult, well protected route taking the grooves in the right side of Linda’s Wall. Climb Bifid until halfway up the chimney. Traverse left to the grooves and climb them, PR, to the break, shake out, rev up and pull over the roof via a thin crack to finish up the wider crack above.

  32. Bifid 32m E1,5b **
    A classic taking the big chimney just by the fence. Climb the chimney to its top and climb the shallow groove, PR, above to a small tree. Traverse left to a crack and up this leftward to a ledge. Traverse right to the top.

  33. The Great Arete 30m E4,5c *
    Climb Bifid for 3m, then move rightwards to the right-hand arete of Bifid’s chimney. Continue to the break, have a shake, and move left to finish up the buttress.

  34. The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance 33m HVS,5a
    From Bifid shuffle across the wall to gain and climb the crack The Great Wall.

  35. White Stallion Fr6c+25m*
    Direct up the wall to a thread in the break,continue to the belay with a long worrying reach above the thread.

  36. The Great Wall 32m HVS,5b *
    A good route cleaned and reclimbed may 2019. Start at the right side of the wall.

    Beneath a crackline. Climb the wall and step left to the crack, which is followed to the break. Traverse left for a ledge. Continue over the overhang on the right and finish rightward.

  37. Age of Reason **24m Fr 6a+
    Climb the narrow slab right of the crack of The Great Wall using the arete.

  38. The Fugitive 24m VS,4b
    This takes the crack and chimney above and right of The Great Wall.Ivy stripped and reclimbed may 2019

  39. Sword of Damocles 24m HVS,5a *
    The sword is long gone! Start at a shallow corner just right of The Fugitive. Climb to a small overhang, then move up and right into a niche and roof. Move left and finish up right.

  40. When the Chips are Down ** F6c+
    An energetic pull from the ground leads to ledges and slab left of the V chimney. Exit via the steep crack with a lower off out right. 25m
Goi Ashmore and Eugene Travers Jones on When the Chips are Down, 6c and Muppet Filter, 6b+

The West Amphitheatre

This is the amphitheatre immediately right of Great Wall.
Temporary Topo
  1. Upidee 27m HVS,5a
    Start beneath a huge detached block at 15m. Climb up, then traverse left to a shallow overgrown groove, PR. Move onto a small ledge and up to the detached block, which is climbed via a v-chimney to a flat ledge. Climb up, then traverse left across the overhanging wall to finish direct.

  2. Muppet Filter ** 25m Fr, 6b+/c
    The arete of the red shallow corner, swing down and left from the final bolt then stand on the huge block. Move steeply up left to a shared belay with When The Chips Are Down

  3. Apollo 13 25m E1,5a *
    Climb the shattered flakey wall 2m right of Upidee, then move right into the corner at the prominent ledge. Climb the corner to reach the top of the block on Upidee. Move right and climb the grooves to the top.

  4. Agricola 25m Fr 6c *
    A groove leads to a large ledge,climb the R sidewall then traverse right under the overhang to the arete and a sloping ledge. Continue direct up the crack to the belay.

  5. Project 20m
    Gain the "sharks teeth holds" and proceed directly up the wall to the small hawthorn tree lower off.

  6. Tacitus Spills The Beans Fr. 6a
    Takes the hanging groove left of the cracked slab then traverse left and up to the hawthorn tree belay. 20m

  7. Three Nuns 21m VS,4c
    The shallow corner 5m right of Agricola is climbed using the right wall. At the overlap, traverse right and swing up the wall to a stance. 20m

  8. Peanut Butter 19m VS,4b
    The s-shaped crack 3m right of Three Nuns.

  9. The Pratter 19m VS,4b
    The groove near some blocks about 15m right of Peanut Butter.

    There are two girdles of the main cliff.

  10. Knacker’s Yard 59m HVS,4c,4b,5a,4a
    1. 18m Follow Queen Bee to the top of the prow, step down and hand traverse right past a bush and a borehole to the gully of Lute. Step right to a belay.
    2. 7m Step right to a sloping ledge leading to short overhanging corners. Climb these to belay above the overhang on Hells Teeth.
    3. 24m Step down and traverse right on undercuts to a crack in the centre of the shattered buttress. Descend for 2m and move right across large blocks to reach the hand traverse of Spelaean. Continue rightward to a belay on Soup Dragon.
    4. 10m Step right and finish up Music Tree.

  11. The Great Boer Trek 77m E3,4b,5b,5b,4c
    A full expedition requiring a strong and competent party.
    1. 6m Climb Three Nuns to a ledge and belay.
    2. 22m Traverse left across the wall to a crack, move down under the overhang and traverse to the block on Upidee. Continue this traverse to a stance in a chimney.
    3. 18m Hand traverse The Great Wall and move around the corner to the top of the chimney on Bifid. Follow the traverse line to the top of Walter Mitty.
    4. 30m Step down and left to follow grass ledges to the foot of the final corner of Spelaean and finish up this.

Additional Photos

First Ascents

Main Wall West

  1. M.Yoyce 00.00.1971
  2. J.Kerry, W.Hughes 00.00.1970
  3. J.Kerry, W.Hughes 00.00.1970
  4. C.Horsfield, E.Tebbert 00.00.1971
  5. Unknown Pre-1973
  6. Unknown Pre-1973
  7. Unknown Pre-1973
  8. Unknown Pre-1973
  9. Unknown Pre-1973
  10. J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1971
  11. C.Horsfield, J.Kerry 00.00.1970
  12. J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1970
  13. D.Ellis, P.Watkin 00.00.1969
  14. Tony Penning, P.Cresswell 29.09.1980
  15. J.Harwood, J.Williams, C.Horsfield 28.06.1978
  16. J.Kerry, P.Thomas 00.00.1970
  17. C.Horsfield, J.Harwood, J.Williams 05.07.1978
  18. J.Kerry 00.00.1970
    P.Littlejohn - Direct 00.00.1978
  19. J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1978
  20. S.Lewis, J.Harwood 17.08.1978
  21. J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1970
  22. J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1970
  23. Project
  24. C.Horsfield, J.Kerry 00.00.1970
    J.Harwood, C.Horsfield - Direct 13.08.1975
  25. Project
  26. P.Stott, R.Thomas 00.00.1980
  27. M.Learoyd, P.Ingram 00.00.1985
  28. C.Horsfield, J.Kerry 00.00.1970
  29. Project
  30. Tony Penning, P.Cresswell 24.08.1980
    FFA Andy Sharp, Pete Lewis 06.06.1982
  31. Tony Penning, C.Court 07.06.1984
  32. C.Horsfield, P.Thomas A0 00.00.1970
    FFA Unknown Pre-1973
  33. Tony Penning, C.Court 05.06.1984
  34. Tony Penning, P.Cresswell 04.11.1979
  35. White Stallion - Gary Gibson & Roy Thomas April 2019
  36. J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1970
  37. R.Davies, O.Jones 13.06.1988
  38. P.Thomas, J.Kerry 00.00.1970
  39. C.Jones, Dave Parsons 00.00.1970
    J.Harwood, C.Horsfield ALCH 04.05.1977
  40. Roy Thomas May 2019

The West Amphitheatre

  1. Upidee - C.Horsfield, J.Kerry 00.00.1970
  2. Muppet Filter - Roy Thomas May 2019
  3. Apollo 13 - C.Horsfield, J.Kerry 00.00.1970
  4. Agricola - J.Kerry, W.Hughes 00.00.1970
    Steve Lewis 1984 F.F.A[1]
  5. Project -
  6. Tacitus Spills The Beans - Roy Thomas 6th June 2019
  7. Three Nuns - C.Jones, Dave Parsons 00.00.1970
  8. Peanut Butter - W.Hughes, C.Horsfield 00.00.1970
  9. The Pratter - Unknown Pre-1973
  10. Knacker’s Yard - C.Horsfield, J.Williams AL, J.Harwood 05.07.1978
  11. The Great Boer Trek - J.Kerry, W.Hughes 00.00.1970


  1. Recorded in Gower and S.E. Wales (2003), p.294, E1,5c, FFA J.Harwood, J.Matthews 19.05.1976