|Rock Type||Quarried Carboniferous Limestone|
|OS Grid Ref.||SO 092 149|
|WGS-84 Parking Location|
|GR Parking Location|
|Base Elevation||466 metres (SRTM Estimation)|
|Crags Within 10.0 km.|
Baltic Quarry, Bridge Cliff, Buckland Hill, Cefn Coed - East, Cefn Coed - West, Craig Y Castell, Craig Y Castell Western Extension, Cwm, Dan-y-Darren Quarry, Darren Fach, Darren Fawr, Dyffryn Crawnon, Gimp Cliff, Llangynidr Quarry, Morlais Quarries, Taf Fechan, Trefil, Twynau Gwynion Quarries, Vaynor
A peregrine falcon frequently nests at this crag and occupies a large ledge at the front of the crag. The rock climbing potential on the front aspect of the crag is fairly limited and much of the rock is vegetated. The crag lies (just) in an SSSI by dint of the distinctive geology in the area. The presence of a protected bird and the its conservation status means that any further developments will need care. (Pete Blackburn)
When first climbed most routes were cleaned from abseil. This cleaning was fairly light normally just using hands and a nut key. Most routes were fairly solid though some cracks were mud filled and these were cleaned. A little vegetation was removed and some poised rocks on the slope above were mainly removed.
All routes were climbed on sight except the 2 bolted lines which were red pointed.
There were 2 or 3 very old 8mm bolts at the top band of rock above the crag. These had aluminium hangers and were badly corroded. There was also an old stake in the grass slope above the crag. It's assumed these were used for abseil groups (services?) many years ago.
- Carry on up the Dyffryn - E4,6a
From below the large roof reach up and climb powerfully up the obvious crack to the right. Continue in the same line up easier ground which requires care with loose rock. 14m
- Three Steps to Hedfan - 7a/7a+?
Start at a small recess and climb up and left for 2 metres. Follow a delicate rising traverse leftwards to more positive holds. Follow these over the first overlap and step right. Make a delicate step over the second overlap to reach a crucial pinch above. Climb up steeply but on improving holds until the final short overhang leads to the top. 15m
- Inner Place - 7a+
Climb the wall right of the recess via a fingery sequence, The finish is steeper but on improving holds. 13m.
- Adventure Alternative - E3,5c
Ascend steep discontinuous cracks to half height. Make bold moves up and past the open groove and a finish still with interest. 13m.
- Clec Hebog - E1,5b
Start below the obvious crack. This offers positive and well protected climbing. The final bulge needs a decisive approach. 12m.
- Up the Dyff - E1,5a
Three metres to the right climb the wall and broad scoop via a wandering line on some suspect rock. The finish is steeper but more solid. 10m.
- Dolen Groove - S,3c
Climb the long and curving corner on the right side of the crag. Although a little fragile at first the main groove is solid and amenable. 14m.
At SO 100150 (51.826288, -3.307510)
Cwar Blaen-Dyffryn Entrance. The first wall on the left as you enter the quarry. Large stake about 10m back at the top. All routes about 8m, west facing
- Unamed_1 - M
- Unamed_2 - D
The centre of the left slab
The twin cracks to the right need lots of cleaning.
- COVID-19 - D The right facing shallow corner
- SARS - D
The left facing corner.
At SO 089147 (51.823660, -3.322780)
Cwar yr Hendre/ Grizzy Wall, about 100m east of the large concrete Grizzy on the top of the quarry, is a 3-4m high wall of excellent blackl Limestone. Flat base, lots of scope for hard boulder problems.
- Pooh Bear - f4
The wide crack at the left end of the wall
- Carry on up the Dyffryn - Paul TuckerT & Hywel Jones June 2012
- Three Steps to Hedfan - Pete Blackburn & Paul Tucker April 2012
- Inner Place - Paul Tucker & Pete Blackburn April/May 2012
- Adventure Alternative - Pete Blackburn & Paul Tucker April 2012
- Clec Hebog - Pete Blackburn & Paul Tucker April/May
- Up the Dyff - Paul Tucker & Pete Blackburn April/May 2012
- Dolen Groove - Pete Blackburn & Paul Tucker April/May 2012
- Unamed_1 - Ms T.Rodford, N.Barry (both solo) 21/3/20
- Unamed_2 - Ms T.Rodford, N.Barry (both solo), Mrs H Barry 21/3/20
- COVID-19 - N.Barry, Ms T.Rodford (both solo), Mrs H Barry 21/3/20
- SARS - N.Barry, Ms T.Rodford (both solo) 21/3/20
- Pooh Bear - N.Barry, Ms T.Rodford (both solo) 21/3/20