Dyffryn Crawnon

Dyffryn Crawnon
Rock Type	Quarried Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style	Trad/Sport
Approach Time
Area	Inland Limestone
Geodata
WGS-84 Location	51.8260376,-3.3174958
OS Grid Ref.	SO 092 149
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation	466 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction
Aspect
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type
Seepage
Crags Within 10.0 km
Baltic Quarry, Bridge Cliff, Buckland Hill, Cefn Coed - East, Cefn Coed - West, Craig Y Castell, Craig Y Castell Western Extension, Cwm, Dan-y-Darren Quarry, Darren Fach, Darren Fawr, Dyffryn Crawnon, Gimp Cliff, Llangynidr Quarry, Morlais Quarries, Taf Fechan, Trefil, Twynau Gwynion Quarries, Vaynor

PREAMBLE

A peregrine falcon frequently nests at this crag and occupies a large ledge at the front of the crag. The rock climbing potential on the front aspect of the crag is fairly limited and much of the rock is vegetated. The crag lies (just) in an SSSI by dint of the distinctive geology in the area. The presence of a protected bird and the its conservation status means that any further developments will need care. (Pete Blackburn)

THE ROUTES

When first climbed most routes were cleaned from abseil. This cleaning was fairly light normally just using hands and a nut key. Most routes were fairly solid though some cracks were mud filled and these were cleaned. A little vegetation was removed and some poised rocks on the slope above were mainly removed.

All routes were climbed on sight except the 2 bolted lines which were red pointed.

There were 2 or 3 very old 8mm bolts at the top band of rock above the crag. These had aluminium hangers and were badly corroded. There was also an old stake in the grass slope above the crag. It's assumed these were used for abseil groups (services?) many years ago.

1. Carry on up the Dyffryn - E4,6a
   From below the large roof reach up and climb powerfully up the obvious crack to the right. Continue in the same line up easier ground which requires care with loose rock. 14m
   
   
2. Three Steps to Hedfan - 7a/7a+?
   Start at a small recess and climb up and left for 2 metres. Follow a delicate rising traverse leftwards to more positive holds. Follow these over the first overlap and step right. Make a delicate step over the second overlap to reach a crucial pinch above. Climb up steeply but on improving holds until the final short overhang leads to the top. 15m
   
   
3. Inner Place - 7a+
   Climb the wall right of the recess via a fingery sequence, The finish is steeper but on improving holds. 13m.
   
   
4. Adventure Alternative - E3,5c
   Ascend steep discontinuous cracks to half height. Make bold moves up and past the open groove and a finish still with interest. 13m.
   
   
5. Clec Hebog - E1,5b
   Start below the obvious crack. This offers positive and well protected climbing. The final bulge needs a decisive approach. 12m.
   
   
6. Up the Dyff - E1,5a
   Three metres to the right climb the wall and broad scoop via a wandering line on some suspect rock. The finish is steeper but more solid. 10m.
   
   
7. Dolen Groove - S,3c
   Climb the long and curving corner on the right side of the crag. Although a little fragile at first the main groove is solid and amenable. 14m.
   
   

Virus Wall

At SO 100150 (51.826288, -3.307510)

Cwar Blaen-Dyffryn Entrance. The first wall on the left as you enter the quarry. Large stake about 10m back at the top. All routes about 8m, west facing

1. Unamed_1 - M
   Left Arête
   
   
2. Unamed_2 - D
   The centre of the left slab
   
   The twin cracks to the right need lots of cleaning.
   
   
3. COVID-19 - D The right facing shallow corner
   
   
4. SARS - D
   The left facing corner.
   
   

Grizzy Wall

At SO 089147 (51.823660, -3.322780)

Cwar yr Hendre/ Grizzy Wall, about 100m east of the large concrete Grizzy on the top of the quarry, is a 3-4m high wall of excellent blackl Limestone. Flat base, lots of scope for hard boulder problems.

1. Pooh Bear - f4
   The wide crack at the left end of the wall
   
   

First Ascents

1. Carry on up the Dyffryn - Paul TuckerT & Hywel Jones June 2012
2. Three Steps to Hedfan - Pete Blackburn & Paul Tucker April 2012
3. Inner Place - Paul Tucker & Pete Blackburn April/May 2012
4. Adventure Alternative - Pete Blackburn & Paul Tucker April 2012
5. Clec Hebog - Pete Blackburn & Paul Tucker April/May
6. Up the Dyff - Paul Tucker & Pete Blackburn April/May 2012
7. Dolen Groove - Pete Blackburn & Paul Tucker April/May 2012

Virus Wall

1. Unamed_1 - Ms T.Rodford, N.Barry (both solo) 21/3/20
2. Unamed_2 - Ms T.Rodford, N.Barry (both solo), Mrs H Barry 21/3/20
3. COVID-19 - N.Barry, Ms T.Rodford (both solo), Mrs H Barry 21/3/20
4. SARS - N.Barry, Ms T.Rodford (both solo) 21/3/20

Grizzy Wall

1. Pooh Bear - N.Barry, Ms T.Rodford (both solo) 21/3/20