Baltic Quarry
From South Wales Climbing Wiki
| Baltic Quarry | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Trad/Sport |
| Approach Time | |
| Area | Inland Limestone |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.796196, -3.357142 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SO 065 117 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | |
| GR Parking Location | |
| Base Elevation | 416 metres (SRTM Estimation) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | |
| Aspect | |
| Wind Sheltered | |
| Climbing Type | |
| Seepage | |
| Crags Within 10.0 km | |
|
Abertysswg, Baltic Quarry, Bridge Cliff, Buckland Hill, Cefn Coed - East, Cefn Coed - West, Dan-y-Darren Quarry, Darren Fach, Darren Fawr, Dyffryn Crawnon, Gimp Cliff, Llangynidr Quarry, Morlais Quarries, Taf Fechan, Trefil, Troedyrhiw, Twynau Gwynion Quarries, Vaynor | |
Contents
PREAMBLE
Baltic Quarry lies high on the hillside, facing west and overlooking Ponsticill. Although part of the Main Face reaches 30m and sports an interesting route, the main interest lies in the extensive short cliffs. The rock quality is excellent and although many of the routes are more safely led, the main value of the quarry lies in the fine soloing to be had.
ACCESS
Take note of the potential for nesting birds of prey on the Main Face. Both quarries have been designated an SSSI because of their exposures of Lower Carboniferous limestones and fossil soils.
Water Works Approach - From the road between Pant and Pontsticill Reservoir. It is only a 400-metre walk along a right(s) of way from the Dŵr Cymru / Welsh Water (DCWW) Water Works south of the dam to the quarry; the problem is finding somewhere suitable to park on the narrow road. One option is to park in a gravel area at the turn-off to the water works itself.
Twynau Gwynion Approach - Assuming you had a mountain bike to get to Twynau Gwynion Quarries, then cycling the extra km to the right-of-way down to Baltic Quarry could be considered.
Both of the previous standard approaches are probably illegal now that the Brecon Mountain Railway operates a full service and has an obligation to keep people off the railway.
Taf Fechan Approach - Park in the lay-by as for Taf Fechan (see Taf Fechan Access) and follow the Brecon Mountain Railway north for ½ mile before striking up the hillside to the Southern Bay.
Ponsticill Approach - Park at Pontsticill Reservoir dam (GR062119). Cross the Brecon Mountain Railway and strike diagonally southeast up the hillside to the Northern Bay. Car break-ins have been reported.
DESCENTS
Scrambling at various points.
THE ROUTES
Main Face
There is a bird of prey’s nest, probably a peregrine’s, just left of Dizzy and Rascal.
- Lair of the She Wolf F6c
Two bolt belay shared with Dirty Girl missing. 12m. - Dirty Girl E4, 6a
Two bolt belay missing. 15m. - Bad Boy E5, 6b
Two bolt belay, abseil off. 15m. - No Hope for the Jungle F6a
Two bolt belay shared with Bad Boy. 18m. - Dizzy and Rascal E5, 6b **
Sustained climbing, well protected with pegs and trad gear. Start below large wall with a big bird nest. Climb easy ground to the base of the wall. Climb crack then move left into flake crack (black peg), climb into niche under roof passing nest (peg). Climb over roof (peg) and wall above (peg) to top of crag. 28m.
Northern Bay
- Minuscule - VS,5b
The short arête started from the left. 6m. - Political Correctness Gone Mad - HVS,4c
Climb the groove left of Taff’s Not Well to a good crack/runner. Use the two small rowan trees to exit right to the top of the arête. 12m. - Taff’s Not Well - VS,4b
The left-hand of two prominent arêtes. 12m. - Out in the Distance - E1,5a
Climb the darker wall two metres left of the arête over a small overlap. Unprotected. - 10m. - Leans to the Left - E1,5a *
Layback the left side of the Rediscovery arête. - 10m. - Rediscovery - VS,5a *
The right-hand arête. 10m. - Andy Borehole - VS,5a
The long borehole in the smooth wall right of Rediscovery. 6m - Holiday Fever - E1,5b
Start 9m right of Andy Borehole. Climb a thin crackline, under a sapling. 9m.
Between Andy Borehole and Arch Face is a cheerlessly uninspiring wall. The first of the two routes here climbs a sky-high borehole right of a break in the cliff (large hawthorns above at the cliff-edge). - Monkey on my Back - E4/5 *
An engaging romp up the tall borehole. Using the arête for left hand and borehole for right, ape up past a crux move at a thin break near the top. 8m.
Possible wire in the thin break for a lead? - Coercion - E3,5c
Takes the wall and right-facing corner left of the cutting. Start at an inconveniently large block under the line. Make tenuous moves up the blue face to large holds. Pull into the corner and exit with care near a pernicious hawthorn at the cliff-edge. 10m.
Over to the right is a prominent rock arch. - Exam Blues - HVS,5b
Start 4m left of the rock arch and climb a wall and crack. 9m. - Temptress - VS,5a
The thin crack 2m right of Exam Blues. 9m. - The Arch - E1,6b
Was given F6b+, but there is no sign of bolts, returned to its trad grade.
Pull through the rock arch with difficulty, then trend rightwards to finish. 9m. - Slagged Off - E1,6b
Was given F6b+, but there is no sign of bolts, returned to its trad grade.
Climb the steep wall and short square-cut groove right of The Arch and below a tree. 9m. - Lonesome Pine - E3,6a
Was given F6b+, but there is no sign of bolts, returned to its trad grade.
To the right of Slagged Off is a steep wall terminating at an arête. Climb the wall. 9m. - Slight Alterations - E3,6a *
Was given F6b+, but there is no sign of bolts, returned to its trad grade.
The calcite cracks in the arête overlooking the south edge of the spoil heap has a dynamic finish. 9m - Not So Plain Jane - E2,5b
The groove to the right of Slight Alterations. This is not the unclimbed broken groove in the arête. 9m. - Health Inspector ’87 - E5,6a
Was given F6c+, but there is no sign of bolts, returned to its trad grade.
The right side of the blunt arête between the grooves right of Not So Plain Jane. 9m. - Stealth Inspector 2014 - E5,6a/b *
The blank groove and arête next right: very bold. Move up direct and enter the groove proper (hard move). Layback and pinch the short hanging arête above with a long stretch to finish. - Bitter & Chips - E1,5a
Take the final groove, eventually using large holds on the right to exit (with a quick pull on a small hawthorn). Unprotected. 8m. - White as White - E1,5a
Climb the white streak via a ledge (wire placement) and a scoop. Pull out on a slender rowan tree. 8m.
At the right-hand end of the wall is a dirty flowstone corner; its left wall has a white streak. - Sanitize - E2,6a
The calcitic wall right of Health Inspector ’87, with a hard move to start and a long reach for the upper break. Bear right to lower off a small hawthorn. 12m. - Hypnotize - HVS,4c
Take a crack in the little flying buttress right of Sanitize and the wall above on good holds. 5m.
Over to the right is a smooth wall. - Sterilise - E2,6b
Was given F6c, but there is no sign of bolts, returned to its trad grade.
The grooved arête, provides a difficult problem. Finish up the left side. 12m.
The next three routes, just right of the grooved arête, finish at a solid ash tree at 8 metres. - What a Shot-hole - E2,5c
Enter the borehole right of the arête with a hard move. Reach a good hold high left and pull delicately into a scoop. Move up to an ash sapling and swing right to the larger ash. Protectable. 8m. - Devolution Convolution - E2,5b
The well-defined groove (without using the borehole of the What a Shot-hole): harder than it looks. No gear. Abseil from the ash tree. 8m.
- Old Rectum - HVS,4c
Climb the little groove right of Devolution Convolution to a strange broken hold, apparently solid. Climb up to a break, and swing left to the ash tree. 8m. - Malignancy - E1,5a
Start under a clean wall above which is a small roof. Pull up onto the wall and link small holds before a long reach gains a break under the left-hand side of the roof. Bear left round the roof to a small stout ash tree from which it is possible to abseil (back up recommended). 8m. - Scotland Decides - E2,5c
A difficult bold start but the remainder is protectable. Start 4 metres left of the deep crack. Pull over a bulge on awkward holds to reach flat handholds and a hairline crack (wire). Gain breaks above and finish at two trees (rowan and ash). Abseil off. 8m. - Llangattock Decides - VS 4c
Climb the thin crack 2 metres left of the deep crack and pull up left to the two trees. Abseil off. 8m. - Unknown - E1,5c
Graded for being unvegetated. Climb the line on slots at the left side of the smooth wall. 10m. - Light Speed - E2,6c *
Climb directly up the smooth wall, BR. 9m. - 10000 Light Years from Home - E2,6a
The thin protectable crack right of Lightspeed. Climb the sustained crack to a break where there is the most slender of rowans. Climb a corner to mature trees at the cliff-edge. 9m. - Why Wimp Out? - HVS,5c
Nice climbing up the centre of the short leaning wall towards the south end of the quarry. 6m.
Southern Bay
Tyle’r-bont Quarry
Three hundred metres to the S of the Northern Bay is Tyle’r-bont Quarry, the lesser of the two quarries. There is easy access at the north end, where a (possibly muddy) sheep path, leads down from the corner of grassy area (above the quarries and west of the wall defining CROW land), south of the bridle-way that bisects the quarries. All other accesses appear to be blocked by dense blackthorn thickets.
- Iron Awe - HVS,5b
Climb the centre of the rust coloured wall in the left-hand side of the bay, exiting rightwards. 9m. - Metal Mistake - E3,6b
A direct line up the left side of the steep block wall via a projecting handhold at 3m. Replacing a bolt hanger reduces the grade to E1. 9m. - Harmony Of The Skies - E3,6b
The thin crack to the right of Metal Mistake. 9m. - Smile - VS,5a
The smooth grey wall right of Harmony Of The Skies. 9m. - Hellboy - E1,6b
Bridge up the bed of the groove; very intense. Scramble down left. 6m. - Hellthorn - E2,6a
Climb the right-hand arête of the groove (feet out of the easy groove to the right). Finish direct; then swing left to the small trees. 6m. - Appear, Smear, Disappear Then Reappear - E2,6a *
Climb directly up the faint line of weakness in the calcite slab right of Smile. Finish direct or traverse off right. 12m. - Bumbling About In Bhutan - E4,6b
Enter the pod right of Appear etc. and pull straight over the bulge to finish rightwards. 12m. - Has Been - V1
Climb the very narrow rightward-facing corner straight to the top. - Has Not Been - V0+
The short arête. - Free Speech - E2/5a/b
Start 1.5 metres left of the arête. Climb up to a small roof; trend slightly rightwards and swing right onto the top of the arête. 7m. - Curb All Intransigence - E1,5c
The fine square-cut arête on its right-hand side. 9m. - Pro-Democracy Dance Party - E2 5c
Start 2 metres right of the arête, and climb a line of weakness making a stiff pull past a horizontal crack to reach ledges. 7m.
Where the next two routes fit in the order is not defined, but they are probably the twin cracks/drainage lines 1m/2m right of Pro-Democracy Dance Party. - Tortured - VS,4c
The fine left-hand crack. 9m. - Traction - VS,5a
The very dirty right-hand crack. 9m.
The bay now fizzles into a series of low walls. The rubbish bouldering here is above a sloping grass landing and any mat will just toboggan you back down the hillside. Best walk on by. - Problem 14 - V0+
The left-hand side of a rounded arête. - Problem 15 - V0
A pretend arête; swing left to descend. - Problem 16 - V0-
A little groove; traverse left to descend.
First Ascents
Main Face
- Lair of the She Wolf - Martin Crocker (unseconded) 23 Oct 2016
- Dirty Girl - Martin Crocker (roped solo) 19 Oct 2015
- Bad Boy - Martin Crocker (roped solo) 19 Oct 2015
- No Hope for the Jungle - Martin Crocker (unseconded) 23 Oct 2016
- Dizzy and Rascal - Martin Crocker, John Harwood 29 Sept 2014
Northern Bay
- Minuscule - Martin Crocker solo 28 February 1987
- Political Correctness Gone Mad - Martin Crocker (solo) 1 Nov 2014
- Taff’s Not Well - Martin Crocker solo 28 February 1987
- Out in the Distance - Martin Crocker (solo) 1 Nov 2014
- Leans to the Left - Martin Crocker (solo) 1 Nov 2014
- Rediscovery - Martin Crocker solo 28 February 1987
- Andy Borehole - Martin Crocker solo 28 February 1987
- Holiday Fever - A.Gostick solo 05 June 1988
- Monkey on my Back - Martin Crocker solo 20 Sept 2014
- Coercion - Martin Crocker solo 20 Sept 2014
- Exam Blues - A.Gostick solo 05 June 1988
- Temptress - A.Gostick solo 05 June 1988
- The Arch - Martin Crocker solo 15 March 1987
- Slagged Off - Martin Crocker solo 15 March 1987
- Lonesome Pine - Martin Crocker solo 1,5 March 1987
- Slight Alterations - Roy Thomas, Graham Royle & Martin Crocker 15 March 1987
- Not So Plain Jane - A.Gostick solo 05 June 1988
- Health Inspector ’87 - Martin Crocker, Roy Thomas, Graham Royle 15 March 1987
- Stealth Inspector 2014 - Martin Crocker 17 Sept 2014
- Bitter & Chips - Martin Crocker 17 Sept 2014
- White as White - Martin Crocker 17 Sept 2014
- Sanitize - Martin Crocker, Mick Ward 10 March 1987
- Hypnotize - Martin Crocker 17 Sept 2014
- Sterilise - Martin Crocker solo 22 April 1987
- What a Shot-hole - Martin Crocker (solo) 20 Sept 2014
- Devolution Convolution - Martin Crocker (solo) 20 Sept 2014
- Old Rectum - Martin Crocker (solo) 20 Sept 2014
- Malignancy - Martin Crocker (solo) 20 Sept 2014
- Scotland Decides - Martin Crocker (solo) 17 Sept 2014
- Llangattock Decides - Martin Crocker, Jonathan Crocker 17 Sept 2014
- Unknown - Unknown .1988
- Light Speed - Martin Crocker 22 April 1987
- 10000 Light Years from Home - Martin Crocker (solo) 20 Sept 2014
- Why Wimp Out? - Martin Crocker solo 22 April 1987
Southern Bay
- Iron Awe - Martin Crocker solo 22 April 1987
- Metal Mistake - Martin Crocker solo 22 April 1987
- Harmony Of The Skies - Mick Ward, Martin Crocker 15 March 1987
- Smile - Martin Crocker solo 10 March 1987
- Hellboy - Martin Crocker solo 27 Sept 2014
- Hellthorn - Martin Crocker solo 27 Sept 2014
- Appear, Smear, Disappear Then Reappear - Martin Crocker solo 10 March 1987
- Bumbling About In Bhutan - Martin Crocker, Mick Ward 10 March 1987
- Has Been - Martin Crocker? 2014?
- Has Not Been - Martin Crocker? 2014?
- Free Speech - Martin Crocker solo 27 Sept 2014
- Curb All Intransigence - Martin Crocker solo 10 March 1987
- Pro-Democracy Dance Party - Martin Crocker solo 27 Sept 2014
- Tortured - Martin Crocker solo 10 March 1987
- Traction - Martin Crocker solo 10 March 1987
- Problem 14 - Martin Crocker? 2014?
- Problem 15 - Martin Crocker? 2014?
- Problem 16 - Martin Crocker? 2014?
