Rams Grove Crag

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Rams Grove Crag
Rams Grove Crag
Rams Grove Crag
Rock Type Quarried Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad/Sport
Approach Time 24 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Thurba to Overton
Local Area Rams Grove
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.556590, -4.267076
OS Grid Ref. SS 429 866
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.565848, -4.270856
GR Parking Location SS 427 876
Parking Postcode SA3 1PH
Base Elevation 13 metres (GPS Survey)
General Info
Faces Direction South
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Seepage Never
Crags Within 400m

Deborah's Overhang, Deborah's Zawn, First Sister, Rams Grove Crag, Rams Grove Seaward Crag, Red Chamber, Saddam's Wall, Second Sister, Sister 2 and Half, TV Zawn, The Crag That Time Forgot, Third Sister, Thurba East Gully, Tooth Fairy


Rams Grove Crag
Sport Grades
<= 6a+ 2
6b - 6c+ 8
7a - 7b 2
Rams Grove Crag
Trad Grades
<= HVS 4
E1 - E3 7
E4 - E5 6


BOLTING POLICY

PREAMBLE

As the pebble beach of Rams Grove[1] is approached, there are a number of small compact cliffs to the west. The first cliff contains a number of short climbs. It is characterised by two right-facing grooves that divide the cliff into thirds. The right-hand groove is Insatiable Appetite

This cliff is currently (late 2021/early 2022) being further developed with the addition of some sport routes.

ACCESS

From the main Rhossili road, turn left in Pitton (south) to Great Pitton Farm (SS 427 876 or 51.556076, -4.267799) where there is a car park. The honesty box no longer exists and a system of seasonal tariffs is now in operation. Payment is made via a machine or paybyphone Ⓡ. See Pitton Parking for information on charges. Currently a maximum of £5.00 is charged for parking from 06.00 to 22.00.

Turn left when coming out of the car park and follow the road, past some houses and farm buildings, until it then becomes an unsurfaced track. At this point, the main track appears to veer off to the right. You should take the left fork (public footpath but marked, "Private Road"). Follow the track uphill for 75m passing through two gates. Then follow the track further (for 350m) until you come to another gate. Go through the gate and either follow the sign-posted footpath directions directing you via the edges of the field or strike out diagonally rightwards across the field for 260m to reach yet another gate.

Pass through this gate to head down a shallow grassy valley towards the sea to reach another gate on the Wales Coast Path after about 50 metres. This is the top end of Rams Grove (SS 430868). 1 km. (15 mins. from parking).

From the gate at the top of Rams Grove dry-valley, follow the path down towards the sea for about 200 metres until you see a crag on your right with a long phreatic tube running along its length. This is Rams Grove Crag. (5 mins. from the gate and 20 mins. from parking).

THE ROUTES

Tentaive trad topo for Rams Grove Crag
Tentative (Trad)
  1. Standing Guard - HVS,5a
    The groove/chimney which bounds the left side of the main part of the cliff. 21m.

  2. Stand at Ease - Fr. 6a+
    The right side of the blocky chimney.Ease gently onto the onto the large block to exit.

  3. Sh**storm - Fr. 6c
    The bulge immediately R of the chimney joining the top loose groove of Windworn.

  4. Lack Toes Intolerant - Fr. 7a
    Climb directly to the upper groove right of S**tstorm, with a tricky couple of moves through the overlap.

  5. Windworn - E5,6a
    Committing. To the right of Standing Guard is a second rightward-facing groove (Sundrench). Climb the wall just left of the groove, but step left to the centre of a bulge. Use a good undercut to stretch for a jug and pull nervously up to a small grey slab. Take the crack leftwards to finish up poor rock. 20m.

  6. Snowstorm - E3,5c 1pt
    Start as for Windworn, but continue directly to a TR at 7m, then step left and surmount the bulge. Continue up the cracks and groove above. 18m.

  7. Sundrench - E4,6a
    Follows the right-facing groove. As for Snowstorm to the steep grey wall barring entry to the groove, pull right into the groove and climb up the right wall to the top. 18m.

  8. Lemon SQZY - 6c+

  9. Tequila Slammer - Project

  10. The Ram of Radyr - E4,6b
    The brutish bulge right of the groove of Sundrench. Take poor rock to the widest part of the ledge beneath the concave stratum. Arrange gear, including a crucial Rock 5 in a pocket over the lip. Now move over onto the face. Step up right into a very slim groove and right again into a more obvious one, leading to the top. 18m.

  11. EZ PZ - Fr. 7a+
    Ferocious boulder problem over the bulge then easing. The LO for this climb is not there. Step right to the LO of Nouveau Cusine or top out.

  12. Nouveau Cuisine - Fr. 6c **
    The roof and wall above the tube starting just L of Taste of Tradition.

  13. Taste of Tradition - E4,6a
    Start 3m right of The Ram Of Radyr and climb to a bulge. Move left and then make a sustained series of moves up to a poor PR under the roof. Move over the roof and onto the slabby wall above then move left to gain a ledge. Continue up the cracked wall above to the top. 18m.

  14. Beth/Glue 10 Free - Fr. 6b+
    Tricky move after peg then groove above.

  15. Beth - E2,5b[2]
    As for Taste Of Tradition to the bulge, PR. Move slightly right over the bulge to a left-leaning groove. Continue on better holds to the top. 16m.

  16. Where East Meets West - E4,6a
    The arête to the right of Beth. Climb direct to small ledges beneath a bulge. Reach over to finger pockets, TR, then climb rightwards on undercuts to a hidden jug near the arête. Follow thin cracks in the arête above to finish. 20m.

  17. Malaysian Lust - E5,6b *
    The saving grace of the crag. Takes the leaning groove right of Where East Meets West and left of Insatiable Appetite. From the concave stratum pull up the rib, PR, into the groove, PR and reach the top passing a 'sexy hand-spike'. 20m.

  18. Gluttony/Insatiable Appetite - Fr. 6a+
    Bolts on left wall of the groove.

  19. Insatiable Appetite - E1,5b
    The obvious right-facing groove right of Malaysian Lust and about 20m from the right end of the crag. Climb up to a bulge and make an awkward move to enter the groove. Continue with less difficulty to the top. 13m. (Now bolted but very badly. Galvanised bolts with A4 hangers and A2 nuts. One bolt protrudes about an inch and will impale you if you hit it. Take care).

  20. More For Me - Fr. 6b **
    Surmount the bulge 1.69m R of Insatiable Appetite. Continue to the two-ring belay.

  21. Don't Tell Anne - E3,6a
    Climb the wall 3m right of Insatiable Appetite passing an overlap to reach small ledges. Take the easier groove above to the top. Committing and high in the grade. 13m.

  22. Just One Cornetto - Fr. 6b *
    Remember not to take premature licks on closed projects. Avoid pulling on the "Keystone" and bringing the pillar down on the top section. Plenty of alternative jugs up and right.

  23. Honey - E1,5b
    Start 3m right of Don't Tell Anne below an obvious square-cut overhang at the top of the crag. Climb a wall until a move can be made leftward to a groove below the overhang. Continue up the groove at its right side. 13m.

  24. August Mank Holiday - E1,5b
    The obvious diagonal line from the start of Honey to the groove of Insatiable Appetite. 15m.

  25. F*uc*ose - Fr. 6b *
    wall and arête right of Honey.

  26. Sugar - E1,5b
    Climb the vague grooves just right of Honey. 12m.

  27. Molasses - Fr. 6b *
    Tricky start from the groove then steeply up arête.

  28. 50 Franc Menu - VS,4c
    Start well to the right of Sugar, where the concave strata meets the ground. Climb the shallow yellow groove and then move rightwards into the groove above. 12m.

  29. Entre - VS,4c
    Climb the cracked wall just right of 50 Franc Menu. 9m.

  30. Appetizer - S
    The short broken groove on the far right of the crag. 8m.

First Ascents

  1. Standing Guard - N.Williams solo Pre-1991
  2. Stand at Ease - Ben Dover Phil McAvity Aaron Martin 2022
  3. Sh**storm -R.Slicker R.Immer 2021
  4. Lack Toes Intolerant - Paul Barwood 2022
  5. Windworn - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 09.02.1998
  6. Snowstorm - P.Thomas, J.Harwood 1pt 12.02.1989[3]
  7. Sundrench - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 27.12.1997
  8. LMN SQZY - Paul Barwood 2022
  9. Tequila Slammer - Project - Paul Barwood
  10. The Ram Of Radyr - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 27.12.1997
  11. EZY PZY - Paul Barwood 2022
  12. Nouveau Cuisine- B. Adman R.Ascal 2021
  13. Taste of Tradition - P.Thomas, J.Harwood 23.05.1989
  14. Beth - P.Thomas, J.Harwood 01.01.1989
  15. Glue 10 Intolerant - Paul Barwood 2022
  16. Where East Meets West - M.Crocker 17.10.1998
  17. Malaysian Lust - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 09.02.1998
  18. Gluttony - Paul Barwood 2021
  19. Insatiable Appetite - N.Williams Pre-1991
  20. More For Me - B.Ellend & Tim Hoddy 2021
  21. Don't Tell Anne - M.Crocker, J.Harwood 27.12.1997
  22. Just One Cornetto - Tess Tickle & Trim Shoddy 2021
  23. Honey - A.Richardson, L.Moran 00.00.1988
  24. August Mank Holiday - M.Richards, J.Harwood 28.08.1999
  25. F*uc*ose -Tess Tickle Nick O'Neill aug 2021
  26. Sugar - A.Richardson, L.Moran 00.00.1988
  27. Molasses - Ben Dover Nick O'Neill 08.2021
  28. 50 Franc Menu - N.Williams solo Pre-1991
  29. Entre - N.Williams solo Pre-1991
  30. Appetizer - N.Williams solo Pre-1991

ADDITIONAL PHOTOS

Notes

  1. Called ‘Ram Grove’ by the Ordnance Survey
  2. Appears to have been retro-ed. Now bolted. Originally E2,5b. See FA info and preceding route description.
  3. "Snowstorm was originally climbed in a snowstorm. Phill Thomas and I repeated it free on 23/5/89". John Harwood in an email (16 May 2024) to Tim Hoddy.