Oliver Burrows on Pinocchio VS
|Rock Type||Natural Jurassic Limestone|
|Approach Time||10 minutes|
|WGS-84 Location||51.453131, -3.621320|
|OS Grid Ref.||SS 874 739|
|WGS-84 Parking Location||51.453795, -3.620713|
|GR Parking Location||SS 874 740|
|Parking Postcode||CF32 0PY|
|Base Elevation||0 metres (Other)|
|Crags Within 2.0 km.|
Black Zawn, Cave Inlet, Davy Jones' Locker and the Sea Caves, Dirty Harry Walls, Dunraven Cliff, Elephant Wall, Every Persons Wall, First Inlet, Folded Walls, Fools Fantasy Area, Mitzy Wall, Ogmore Popular End, Phaser Wall, Playtime Wall, Right Hand Wall, Second Inlet, Stone Wings Cliff, The Biscuit, The Castle Area, The Long Wall, The Western Crag, Tiger Bay, Tusker Chimney Area, Twinkle Buttress, Witches Cave, Witches Tip
See the Ogmore Crag Familiarisation Page. This is the rather featureless pale wall forming the right side of the 'Popular End' bay. Pinocchio takes the left side of it. The following routes from Easy Livin' to Elephant Wall may be climbed when the tide is quite high, by abseiling to a small ledge below a fine wall split by two horizontal breaks. There is an abseil point at the top (A5). Large Friends are useful and above the second break the rock should be treated with some care. The wall is sunny in the evenings and usually free of seepage.
- Easy Livin 36m E3,5c **
A fine climb with a bold start and a tricky middle section. Start in the middle of the ledge and climb up a smooth groove. Move left into a obvious groove leading to the first horizontal break. (crux) Pull around the left side of an overlap and climb the steep wall to the second, more friable, break. Finish direct.
- Wave Band 36m E2,5b *
Start below the faint cracks in the smooth steep rock right of Easy Livin. Climb easily to the ledges below the smooth steep rock. From their right side climb directly up the smooth wall crossing two breaks to reach a short crack leading to the top.
- Slime Crime 36m HVS,5a
As for Wave Band to the ledges. Follow a short corner on the right side of the face to a horizontal break, pull into the hanging corner and continue directly to the top.
- Elephant Wall 35m VS,4b *
Start as for Wave Band to the ledges. Step right and climb the knobbly wall to the horizontal break and a possible stance. Step up and right at the break and climb a short groove and steep wall above.
- P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 23.06.1977
- P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 26.10.1977
- J.Harwood, M.Rhodes 17.02.1980
- P.Watkin 00.00.1972