Twinkle Buttress

From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
Twinkle Buttress
Rock Type Natural Jurassic Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time
Area South Coast
Sub Area Ogmore
WGS-84 Location 51.4535262, -3.6225426
OS Grid Ref. SS 873 739
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation 0 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction South West
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type Serious
Crags Within 2.0 km

Black Zawn, Cave Inlet, Davy Jones' Locker and the Sea Caves, Dirty Harry Walls, Dunraven Cliff, Elephant Wall, Every Persons Wall, First Inlet, Folded Walls, Fools Fantasy Area, Mitzy Wall, Ogmore Popular End, Phaser Wall, Playtime Wall, Right Hand Wall, Second Inlet, Stone Wings Cliff, The Biscuit, The Castle Area, The Long Wall, The Western Crag, Tiger Bay, Tusker Chimney Area, Twinkle Buttress, Witches Cave, Witches Tip


See the Ogmore Crag Familiarisation Page.

The Routes

The small prominent buttress standing out from the general line of the cliff. Some of the shortest and easiest routes are here. A good place to escape with abseil point in place if you don't want to climb down Route 1.

  1. Pillock - VS,4c
    The overhanging chimney and shallow groove just left of Twinkle. 15m.

  2. Twinkle - D
    Takes the easiest line on the left edge of the buttress. 12m.

  3. Route 1 - D
    The obvious corner to the right of the buttress. 12m.

  4. Canute Left Hand - HVS,5b
    Take the middle of the face between Route 1 and Canute directly, to finish just left of Canute. 12m.

  5. Canute - VD
    To the right of Route 1 is a wall with a shallow corner on its right. Climb the crack on the right and move round left onto the wall. Follow a shallow groove up to the left. 12m.

  6. Canute Right Hand - HVS,5a
    Climb Canute to step right under a bulge to the foot of a shallow corner. Finish up this. 12m.

    The next feature is the obvious corner and roof of Leprechaun.

  7. Leprechaun - E2,5c *
    A claasic piece of awkward climbing. Start 9m right of Route 1 at an obvious corner capped by a large overhang. Gain the overhang then move right to a bottomless corner. Go up to a flake crack then move left across blocks to the top. 18m.

The line of Oedipus Variation E3,6b (M.Learoyd, G.Royle 1984) has fallen down.

First Ascents

  1. Pillock - P.Thomas,C.Horsfield 1972
  2. Twinkle - J.Mothersele 1972
  3. Route 1 - J.Mothersele 1972
  4. Canute Left Hand - J.Harwood, M.Ismail 20.09.1998
  5. Canute - P.Thomas,C.Horsfield 1972
  6. Canute Right Hand - P.Thomas, C.Horsfield 1972
  7. Leprechaun - J.Kerry 1pt. 1973
    FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood, J.Mothersele 22.06.1977