Dirty Harry Walls

Dirty Harry Walls
Rock Type	Natural Jurassic Limestone
Climbing Style	Trad
Approach Time
Area	South Coast
Sub Area	Ogmore
Geodata
WGS-84 Location	51.450875, -3.615872
OS Grid Ref.	SS 878 736
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation	metres
General Info
Faces Direction
Aspect
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type
Seepage
Crags Within 2.0 km
Black Zawn, Cave Inlet, Davy Jones' Locker and the Sea Caves, Dirty Harry Walls, Dunraven Cliff, Elephant Wall, Every Persons Wall, First Inlet, Folded Walls, Fools Fantasy Area, Mitzy Wall, Ogmore Popular End, Phaser Wall, Playtime Wall, Right Hand Wall, Second Inlet, Stone Wings Cliff, The Biscuit, The Castle Area, The Long Wall, The Western Crag, Tiger Bay, Tusker Chimney Area, Twinkle Buttress, Witches Cave, Witches Tip

ACCESS

See the Ogmore Crag Familiarisation Page.

To the right the crag forms three long slabs divided by corner cracks. The routes make up in length and adventure what they lack in rock quality and reasonable/sensible protection. In other words they are serious.

The Routes

First Slab

1st Slab

1. General Gordon 35m VS
   This follows the friable left edge of the slab right of Fashoda Chimney. Climb a crack to an overhang, traverse left to a ledge and finish up the corner.
   
   
2. Private Gordon. - HVS, 4c
   Start right of General Gordon under the black bulge. Climb the bulge to a ledge now step right. Pull over the overlap above. Now climb the thin, vague crack line until under a dusty roof. Move up under the roof and hand traverse left until you are above the old peg in the small corner of General Gordon. Mantle up left and finish up General Gordon. 35m.
   
   
3. Khartoum 42m E2,5a
   Start at the featureless slab to the right of General Gordon. Climb the centre of the slab marked by a vague crack line, until it steepens below the headwall, PR. Follow horizontal bands to finish up a steep crack.
   
   
4. Living Autopsy 45m E3, 5b
   Start about 8 metres left of Never Again left of a recess. Climb the easy ground, rock up right onto the ledge. Climb the faint groove up passing a small roof until onto a ledge under a bigger roof. The rock quality deteriorates badly here. Above the left side of the roof are 2 pegs which have been extended with a sling. Climb round the left side of the roof into the tiny groove with all the holds being on the right by the pegs, ignore what’s on the left. Rock up right past the pegs to a ledge and another peg. Undercut right onto the gold slab and another peg under a tiny wall. Move over this slightly right then up left to finish up the obvious excavated square. I used the 2 extended pegs in the roof for aid on my ascent.
   
   
5. Never Again 42m HVS,4b
   Poor and loose. Climb the lower slab 12m left of Lady Jane to a crack in the steeper upper half.
   
   
6. Lady Jane 45m HVS,4a,4c
   Star below a corner crack on the right of the left slab. Serious in its upper section. Climb the slab past the first overhang to a ledge (possible belay). Climb up to a second roof, taking care with the rock. Step left to finish up a corner.
   
   
7. Mary Jane - E1,5a
   An alternative finish to Lady Jane. Climb Lady Jane until in the top corner level with a peg on the wall out right. Roll out right to the peg then straight up to the break. Take the roof direct past 2 more pegs using a sneaky side pull, ( the roof could be avoided by hand traversing the top to finish up No Shadow……)
   
   
8. No Shadow of Doubt 45m E3,5c,5c 2pt
   A spectacular outing. Start as for Lady Jane.
   1. 21m Climb the slab of Lady Jane, hand traverse right above the first roof and move up the bulging wall above, PR, to the arête. Climb this to a ledge. Large Friends are useful.
      
   2. 24m Move 3m left up to a roof then use 2PA to gain the wall above and the top, PR, TR.
      
      
9. Glamping Pod - HVS,5b
   Start up Lady Jane until level with a thin horizontal break. Follow the break right to some spaced moves up to a peg. Up left and then right onto the slab (2 pegs), now up the thin crack to the roof of Glamping. Cross the roof of Glamping then traverse left and up past a peg towards the arête of the slab. Finish easily but with care on the right side of the arête.
   
   

First Ascents

1. General Gordon - J.Mothersele, G.Jones 00.00.1971
2. Private Gordon - Gavin Cytlau rope solo 3rd August 2019
3. Khartoum - C.Heard, C.Pound, R.Thomas 00.00.1981
4. Living Autopsy - Gavin Cytlau 28th July 2019 (Roped Solo)
5. Never Again - G.Royle, R.Thomas 00.07.1986
6. Lady Jane - J.Kerry, C.Horsfield 00.00.1972
7. Mary Jane - 30/03/24 . G Cytlau rope solo.
8. No Shadow of D|oubt - R.Thomas, J.Bullock, M.Learoyd 2pt 00.08.1985
9. Glamping Pod - 30/03/24. G Cytlau rope solo.

Second Slab

2nd Slab

1. Glamping - HVS 5a
   Start left of Camptrail on the arête. Climb the arête for about 5 metres then move right onto the slab, past a resonating block into Camptrail. Follow Camptrail round the first roof then up onto the ledge and traverse left under the second roof. Move leftwards up the wall above ( crossing Marooned )under a roof to a peg. Make steep moves up right round the roof to another peg. Pull up left for a big side pull and rock over. Continue up the cleaned wall and slabs above following a vague crack line. Finish straight up or over to the left for the last couple of metres taking care with the rock. 40m.
   
   
2. Camptrail 39m HVS,5a
   This takes the left edge of the slab, loose. Climb 3m right of the arête to a ledge on the left. Continue in the same line to finish.
   
   
3. Marooned 42m HVS,4c,4c
   A climb without a finish. Continuously loose. Start in the centre of the slab left of Falls Road.
   1. 22m Climb through the lower overhangs, then up and left to belay at the halfway ledge on the arête.
   2. 20m Traverse left round the arête into Lady Jane and finish up that climb.
      
      
4. No Longer Marooned E1, 5a
   A Direct Finish. Climb Marooned until on the ledge where the route traverses left. Use a big undercut on the left to move up over the first overlap. Now move right under a second overlap, peg. Pull over and up the slab to another peg under a wall. Make slopey moves up and right then straight up the slabs above taking care with the grass finish. Massive stake belay.
   
   
5. A Tale Of High Adventure HVS 4c
   Weave up to and about the blind crack which may or may not be the same one as Jermyn Street.The consolation prize is the sturdy scaffoling pole belay in the turf above.45m
   
   
6. Jermyn Street 44m E1,5a
   This route climbs the slab 6m left of Falls Road. Start at a ledge 4m up the corner crack of Falls Road. Climb up leftwards for 6m to a slight ridge, continue up for 18m then trend left to reach a faint crack leading to the top.
   
   
7. Red Light 42m E1,5a
   Serious. Start 4m left of Falls Road and climb until 6m from the top. Traverse right and finish up a crack line.
   
   
8. Falls Road 45m HVS,4c
   The obvious corner/crack on the right of the slab. Climb the corner for 21m then move onto an earthy ledge. Follow a groove to exit right above an overhang. The upper section is filthy and has poor protection.
   
   

First Ascents

1. Gavin Cytlau 4th August 2019 (Roped Solo)
2. P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 13.12.1977
3. S.Lewis, J.Harwood 18.10.1978
4. Gavin Cytlau & Roy Thomas 25th July 2019
5. Alan Rosier 201?
6. P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 11.12.1977
7. P.Littlejohn, M.Price 16.03.1980
8. C.Horsfield, P.Thomas 00.00.1974

A Tale of High Adventure, VS 4c - left of Falsity wall. Weave up to and around a blind crack in the upper half of the slab. Serious as not cleaned, new stake at top.

Falsity Wall

Contains the forbidding but reasonably graded Norwegian Wood E2 and Falsity E2. This wall is much steeper than appearances suggest. Be prepared to leave a rope in place and clean in advance (stakes in place).

The crag now faces west again.

1. Norwegian Wood E2,5b
   Gain and follow the obvious rightward-trending calcite line over a small roof to a ledge in the middle of the wall (possible peg belay). Follow the calcite line to/ and continue with care up the arête. 45m.
   
   
2. Norwegian Wood (variation finish) - E1,5a
   An interesting finish to Norwegian Wood or Yesterday’s Hero. From the ledge in the middle of the wall (peg belays) move up right towards the arête (as for Norwegian Wood) until a horizontal crack can be reached. Follow this left to ledges and continue the traverse into Falls Road. Finish up the latter.
   
   
3. Yesterday's Heroes E2,5b
   A more direct and solid line starting l of the corner of Falsity gaining the ledge of Norweigan Wood and continuing as per that route. 42m.
   
   The high part of the wall has two black streaks
   
   
4. Black Looks E4,5c ***
   Frightening, leaving a rope for the grassy exit should reduce the fear factor (minimally). Gain the ledge as for Falsity, up then left to the horizontal break and the start of the longest black streak (place numerous runners here) Proceed up widely spaced rounded breaks with the hopeful possibility of dubious large friend placements. Enjoy!! 42m.
   
   
5. Spring Fever E3,5c *
   As for Falsity then up the shorter R hand black streak (PR). 42m.
   
   
6. Falsity E2,5b*
   The classic and most regular of routes on this wall. Start at the obvious corner, flowstone sheets then pull over roof to ledge continuing as for Norweigan Wood. 43m.
   
   
7. Far City E3,5b,5c
   Wandering and a bit crunchy.Start as for Falsity then traverse R 6m,up steep friable rock to a large ledge.Belay.27m.Walk R until beneath a hanging corner.Climb it exiting l to finish up a wall and ramp.17m.
   
   

First Ascents

1. A.Sharpe Prof J. Harwood P. Lewis 14.09.1977
2. T.Penning, J.Harwood 19/7/83.
3. L.Foulkes P. Lewis 1980
4. R.Thomas M. Learoyd G. Royle 1984.
5. R.Thomas G. Royle 1987.
6. P. Littlejohn J. Mothersele 20.06.1977
7. L.Foulkes D.Renshaw 1983

Third Slab

To the right is the third and largest slab.The rock is reasonable in the lower half then becomes more vegetated higher up

Third Slab. Photograph: Steve Delaney

Gavin Cytlau on Go Ahead, Make My Day

1. Natalie’s Shoes E1 5a
   Climb the vertical crack a metre or so left of Go Ahead, Make My Day starting under the little roof. Over the first roof and follow the crack until a long reach past brittle rock gets you under a bulge. Aim slightly left for the notch in this and pull over onto a ledge, big cam and flake crack belay. Traverse easily right to the peg and thread belay on Go Ahead, Make My Day.
   
   
2. Go Ahead, make my Day E2,5b
   Climb up Do you feel lucky punk and slightly left to where the wall meets the roof, big cams. Grope over the roof and move up right to a hold on the lip. Pull up to a horizontal pinch feet up and bum cheek on the lip. Keep reaching right to stand on the lip then right to a thread and peg belay. Abseil off here or move right and up to get back on Do you feel lucky punk before the grass ball and finish up here.
   LinkUp - Go Ahead Punk 48 metres, E2 5b.
   Climb Go Ahead Make My Day to the lower off, clip it then go diagonally up left to the faint gold groove. My intention was to go straight up,( definitely possible but bold ) but wet rock made me go right under a little roof and up onto the ledge. Join up with and finish up Do You Feel Lucky Punk?
   
   
3. Easy Action 42m VS,4b
   Start 6m left of the prominent central crack 5m from the left side of the slab, below a crack 5m up. Climb to the latter crack from the left and climb it to its top, finishing up the wall above.
   
   At the base of the central part are two tidal pools seperated by a boulder
4. Do you feel lucky punk? E1, 4c
   Start about 8 metres from the left side of the slab. Up for about 5 metres until under an overhang then traverse right into a recess. Make a rising traverse right for about 12 metres to a short vertical crack. Up the crack then traverse back left under a roof until it ends, low thread. Pull up to a ledge then traverse up left for about 10 metres past a big grass ball. Make a careful mantle up onto the wall above and right to a thread. Continue up and right with care to a faint groove under an overlap and a good peg. Pull straight up through the overlap and continue on easy but loose ground to the top. Two stake belay. 45m
   
   
5. Another Christmas Tree Adventure 45m VS 4c
   Just L of the pool,step up onto a small ledge 1m up then proceed over 2 bulges(top one has a crack) to gain the mid slab belay. Proceed up the slab above or sensibly lower off and leave the top pich for a "one off" after doing the two proceeding routes.
   
   
6. Tattered Adventurer 46.9m E1 5b
   Take the short steep wall under the imposing roof then pull over direct on good holds. Continue directly over the top bulge to the junction with Sense Of Adventure.
   
   
7. Sense Of Adventure 45m VS,4b,4b?
   Climb the chimney in the centre of the slab to its top with excellent protection.. Continue up a line of weakness and left to finish.
   
   
8. Joint Venture HVS 4c
   Above the left edge of the pool,steeply up to a small ledge,more steep pulls(blue threads) gain rounded breaks(Small cam F1) then the central belay. 45m .
   
   
9. No Sense Venture VS 4c,4b
   
   1. Skirt the left edge of the pool below the crack/chimney of Sense of Adventure head of right easily at first then continue past rounded breaks(pink thread) to an obvious belay ledge.
   2. Step R and continue up the protectable de-turfed top crack of Wimaway or continue more boldly direct to a grassy top out and situ belay stakes.
      
      
10. Capital Venture VS 4b,4b
    
    1. The lower pitch follows the wall L of Wimaway.Step onto the square cut ledge at the R end of the pool and make for the obvious mid height belay.Good large nut and friend protection.
    2. Top pitch of Wimaway.
       
       
11. Wimaway - HVS,4b,4b
    Presumably this follows the obvious L ascending diagonal weakness at the end of the first pool but the original description is included,so make your own decision." This climbs the corner between Sense Of Adventure and the right-hand side of the slab. 45m."
    1. 30m Climb to a corner and follow this to a stance on the left.
    2. 15m Finish directly.
       
       
12. Bat Boxer VS 4b
    Start 2m R of "Wimaway" continue through a series horizontal breaks to a belay just before the vegetated ledge and upper section.Abseil off.
    
    
    

    Third Slab
    25m.
    
    
13. Bat Bluster HVS 4c
    Start a metre right of previous then continue until a tricky final move leads to a ledge and reach left to shared belay.It is possible to climb out above the belay of both routes but is horrific (Extremely Severe,"The Nutter Finish")and thus not included in the routes. 25m.
    
    
14. To The Bat Cave Robin HVS 4c
    Traverse R 2m over the pool,up the slab then move left to a ledge and belay above the "grass moustache", (For those who feel compelled to top out the "Scabby Mayonnaise Topping", Most Extremely Severe or a traverse over to the "Daft Nutter escapee", Only Extremely Severe are possible if not recommended). 30m.
    
    
15. Battered HVS 4c *
    Gain the crack,steepens just before L.O in roof. 25m.
    
    
16. Surprise Package 36m VS,4b
    Start left of "Gepe" at a boulder. Step off the boulder in the pool, move right to a groove, climb this and the wall above for 24m then move right to a grassy gully (poor belay) to finish carefully.
    
    
    

    Third Slab
17. Two Girls - HVS,4c
    From the base of the chimney cleft make a teetering tentative traverse just above the pool for 6m. Continue up the arête (thread) to the shared belay. 25m.
    
    
18. Three Golden Cups- HVS,5a
    From the base of the cleft make a hard pull (peg) to gain the wall above the pool. Continue to gain the shared belay on the left. 25m.
    
    
19. Gepe VS,4b
    Climb the deep chimney-cleft on the right side of the third slab to a corner. Finish up the gully.
    
    The next routes do not finish on the top of the cliff.There is a newly installed abseil station shared by the first two. 30m.
    
    
20. Blackjack VS,4b
    Gain the plinth of pontoon then move around L from the Base of the L hand groove into the chimney and climb the black slabby wall to rejoin pontoon. 24m
    
    
21. Pontoon VS,4c
    Climb the groove in the rib just right of the deep cleft of Gepe. Abseil(newly installed 2015) at 24m.
    
    
22. Upside down land E?
    The roof with rusty peg finishing in a sea of rubble.Ab rope situ belay advised.
    
    
23. Simple Twist E2,5c
    Start 4m right of Gepe, left of a short corner(seems to have succumbed to storms) below the left side of a square-cut roof. Climb the wall into the corner, then move right and around the arête to a crack. Climb it to its top. Abseil. 24m
    
    
24. Twist HVS 5a
    Gain the same crack somehow from the rightThen abseil from the same decomposing belay station.
    
    
25. 'Sandstorm VS 4b
    Very old school dusty crack ending in a crumbly cave with remnants of rusty gear and slings to lower off,knock yourself out ,have an adventure!

First Ascents

1. Gavin Cytlau & Natalie Mullen 20/07/19
2. G. Cytlau rope solo 14th July 2019
   LinkUp - Go Ahead Punk 29th December 2009.Gavin Cytlau & George Hawksworth
3. T.Penning, P.Cresswell 18.10.1981
4. G. Cytlau rope solo 12th July 2019
5. J.Harwood, P.Lewis 03.07.1980
6. R.Thomas N.O'Neill 12.08.2015
7. J.Harwood, P.Lewis (alt. leads)
8. R.Thomas Ed Rees 25.07.2015
9. R.Thomas Nick O'Neill Ed Rees R.Phillips 09.07.2015
10. R.Thomas (solo)pich 1 only 23.07.2015
11. Wimaway - A.Sharp, J.Harwood 15.05.1981
12. Bat Boxer - Roy Thomas 2019
13. Bat Buster - Roy Thomas 2019
14. To the Bat Cave Robin - Roy Thomas 2019
15. Battered - Roy Thomas July 2019
16. Surprise Package - A. Sharp, J. Harwood 15th May 1981
17. Two Girls R.T 2019
18. Three Golden CupsR.T 2019
19. Gepe J. Harwood solo 17th May 1981
20. Blackjack - R.Thomas Nick O'Neill 2015
21. Pontoon - C. Horsfield & J.Harwood solo 23/3/1977
22. Upside Down Land - Martin Crocker 00.10.20o?
23. Simple Twist - P. Littlejohn 26th May 1997
24. Twist - J. Harwood 20/7/1977
25. Sandstorm - J. Harwood 20/7/1977