The Long Wall
| The Long Wall | |
 Eugene Jones - Heading For a Sea of Tears - Fr. 5+ | |
| Rock Type | Natural Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport |
| Approach Time | 20 minutes |
| Area | South Coast |
| Sub Area | Temple Bay Inlets |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.4414281, -3.6037531 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 886 726 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.446124, -3.6053771 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 885 731 |
| Parking Postcode | CF32 0RT |
| Base Elevation | 0 metres (Other) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South |
| Aspect | Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Mostly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Midge Problem | Never |
| Seepage | Quick drying |
| Tidal | |
| Before/After Low Tide | 4.0 hours (See Note) |
| Crags Within 2.0 km | |
|
Black Zawn, Cave Inlet, Davy Jones' Locker and the Sea Caves, Dirty Harry Walls, Dunraven Cliff, Elephant Wall, Every Persons Wall, First Inlet, Folded Walls, Fools Fantasy Area, Mitzy Wall, Ogmore Popular End, Phaser Wall, Playtime Wall, Right Hand Wall, Second Inlet, Stone Wings Cliff, The Biscuit, The Castle Area, The Long Wall, The Western Crag, Tiger Bay, Tusker Chimney Area, Twinkle Buttress, Witches Cave, Witches Tip | |
PREAMBLE
ACCESS
Clearly visible from the Dunraven / Southerndown beach carpark. When tides permit walk/ scamper left across the beach. When tides do not permit it's possible to pass over the stile from the lower carpark and walk above the cliff tops to descend sketchily steep grass below Tufa Terrace. Not recommended if you are not familiar with the crag so best to wait until all you risk is wet feet from an ebbing tide. Right again the roof of the cave becomes slatted then there is an arête followed by a long wall.It is easy to scramble up to the fence and escape to the main footpath.This is the last area to remain climable on the incoming tide and it is easy to escape the long ledge above the wall by walking east to the fence.
THE ROUTES
- Socrates Sucks - Fr. 5+
The left side of the arête pulling over the roof to start and keeping off the large ledges on the left.8m. - Kant Hooks - Fr. 4+ **
The arête to a shared belay passing the block thread,delightful.8m. - Rude Buoys - HS,4b
Climb straight up the middle of wall avoiding the mod on the right. 8m. - Sartre Flies - Moderate
More of a staircase than a route,a handy way to access the ledge.8m. - Sartre's Underlay - VS,4c
Solo or trad to gain the last step of previous.5m. - The Carpet Bagger - Fr.4+
Two bolts,rock 6 by bootlace thread,easiest line on the wall(so far).8m. - Fermat's Last Theorem - Fr. 5
Row of glue ins above "the only jug on the wall",belay on ledge.8m. - Oreste's Suffering - Fr. 6a
Sharp mean starting moves,belay back on ledge.Long slings needed to set up bottom rope.8m. - Electra's Revenge - Fr. 5+
Purple threads high up same belay as previous.8m. - Probing Proctologist - Fr. 6a
Squeezed in just before the rectangular recess on the right of the wall,avoid this by climbing left of the lower bolts,painful entry for sensitive fingers. - Heading For A Sea Of Tears - Fr. 5+
A right to left girdle of the long wall finishing at Sartre's Flies,clipping the 3rd bolts),best done when the tide is in,a fitting finale.25.69m.
First Ascents
- Socrates Sucks - R.Thomas
- Kant Hooks - R.Thomas
- Rude Buoys - Joe Gallacher, Matt Moore, 23rd June/2015
- Sartre Flies - R.Thomas
- Sartre's Underlay - R.Thomas
- The Carpet Bagger - R.Thomas
- Fermat's Last Theorem - R.Thomas
- Oreste's Suffering - R.Thomas
- Electra's Revenge - R.Thomas
- Probing Proctologist - R.Thomas
- Heading For A Sea Of Tears - N.O'Neill R.Thomas 2012
