First Inlet

First Inlet
Myles Jordan on Surly Temple. Photo: Carl Ryan
Rock Type	Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style	Sport
Approach Time	15 minutes
Area	South Coast
Sub Area	Temple Bay Inlets
Geodata
WGS-84 Location	51.441603, -3.606109
OS Grid Ref.	SS 884 726
WGS-84 Parking Location	51.446124, -3.6053771
GR Parking Location	SS 885 731
Parking Postcode	CF32 0RT
Base Elevation	0 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction	South
Aspect	Sunny
Wind Sheltered	Mostly
Climbing Type	Normal
Midge Problem	Never
Seepage	Needs a short dry spell
Tidal
Before/After Low Tide	3.0 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 2.0 km
Black Zawn, Cave Inlet, Davy Jones' Locker and the Sea Caves, Dirty Harry Walls, Dunraven Cliff, Elephant Wall, Every Persons Wall, First Inlet, Folded Walls, Fools Fantasy Area, Mitzy Wall, Ogmore Popular End, Phaser Wall, Playtime Wall, Right Hand Wall, Second Inlet, Stone Wings Cliff, The Biscuit, The Castle Area, The Long Wall, The Western Crag, Tiger Bay, Tusker Chimney Area, Twinkle Buttress, Witches Cave, Witches Tip

ACCESS

Clearly visible from the Dunraven / Southerndown beach carpark. When tides permit walk/ scamper left across the beach. When tides do not permit it's possible to pass over the stile from the lower carpark and walk above the cliff tops to descend sketchily steep grass below Tufa Terrace. Not recommended if you are not familiar with the crag so best to wait until all you risk is wet feet from an ebbing tide.

THE ROUTES

Immediately west of the scramble down at the extreme east end of the Sea Walls are a series of inlets culminating in the large bay.This new area has long forgotten rejeuvanated routes,new sports routes bouldering,bath water solos and more.Only the best of low tides however reveal all.

First Inlet

First Inlet

A smooth rocky inlet up which the advancing tide rises alarmingly. However the most easily approached and escapable of the inlets.If intending to climb on the eastern end it is perhaps easier to approach by walking past the Castle Walled Gardens,down the steps into the bay then right(west) along the beach.

1. Long Awaited Fr 6c **
   A short (1.69m)step right from the obvious layback crack of Waiting Game.Hard start then eases.Top out.15m.
   
   
2. Fools rush in no longer-Fr 6c+**
   The obvious arête,tricky to start,painful to continue, top out.15m
   
   
3. Lasting impressions E3 5c
   The hanging corner on the right.18m
   
   Right of the hanging corner are:
   
   
4. Dross Of 86-Fr 6b*
   Tricky bulging start to juggy finish.18m
   
   
5. Life And Soul HVS,5a
   Cracks.18m.
   
   
6. Sixty Eight Plus One Fr 6b
   Tricky move to clip belay
   
   
7. Blow Me,Another One-Fr. 5+
   The easiest around here,a few metres left of the "trio".Tricky start then easier to seperate belay.18m
   
   Next to the scramble down is a wall with flowstone and three quality routes sharing a LO
   
   
8. Matt Of The Iron Gland-Fr 6a*
   The easiest start of the three,tricky at mid height.18m
   
   
9. Wreckers Bay-Fr 6a*
   Tricky start delightful above.18m
   
   
10. Surly Temple-Fr 6a
    Trickiest start,easy above.Originally soloed by stepping across onto the wall now geared and climbed from the floor.18m
    
    

First Ascents

1. R.Thomas G.Royle 1988
2. R.Thomas G.Royle 1986
3. M.Learoyd R.Thomas S.Robinson D.Meek
4. R.Thomas R.Phillips 2010
5. R.Thomas E.Jones 2011
6. D.Meek S.Robinson 1986
7. R.Thomas R.Phillips 2011
8. R.Thomas R.Phillips 2010
9. R.Thomas G.Ashmore 2010
10. R.Thomas 1986