Fools Fantasy Area

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Fools Fantasy Area
Rock Type Natural Jurassic Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time
Area South Coast
Sub Area Ogmore
WGS-84 Location 51.453443, -3.622311
OS Grid Ref. SS 873 739
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation metres
General Info
Faces Direction
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type
Crags Within 2.0 km

Black Zawn, Cave Inlet, Davy Jones' Locker and the Sea Caves, Dirty Harry Walls, Dunraven Cliff, Elephant Wall, Every Persons Wall, First Inlet, Folded Walls, Fools Fantasy Area, Mitzy Wall, Ogmore Popular End, Phaser Wall, Playtime Wall, Right Hand Wall, Second Inlet, Stone Wings Cliff, The Biscuit, The Castle Area, The Long Wall, The Western Crag, Tiger Bay, Tusker Chimney Area, Twinkle Buttress, Witches Cave, Witches Tip


See the Ogmore Crag Familiarisation Page.

The Routes

An area of hard routes but ending at the popular corner of Pluto VS. A good search of the ledges above will reveal good belays for most routes. The obvious vegetated chimney between the finish of Fools Fantasy and Wipeout is obvious from the top.

Fools Fantasy Area

To the right of Leprechaun, after a featureless undercut wall is a cave recess, with a large roof running over its back wall. The first route is based around the left arête of the recess.

  1. Oedipus 18m E3,6b
    Gymnastic. Climb the left side of the blunt arête right of Leprechaun to bulges, then move up right and back left to gain a ledge above the roof. Move onto the face above and finish.

  2. Astrobrain 18m E6,6b *
    Start just right of Oedipus. Climb steeply up right to a crack and into a pod. Traverse right to a block then up right again until a few moves lead to a PR. Bold moves up and left lead to an exit.

  3. Fools Fantasy 33m E5,6a **
    A spectacularly awkward pitch which follows the lip of the cave. Climb a groove left of the cave to the first roof. Traverse rightwards around this and continue to beneath the main overhangs. Traverse right to pull round the right end of the roof finishing up a groove. The pegs are little more than rust, but good gear can still be placed. Hint: three ropes to start might relieve the drag, if one is dropped above the first lip.

  4. WMD E5 6b **
    Starts up the groove of wipeout and from the niche breaks up and left across steep ground to join the end of Fools Fantasy.

  5. Wipeout 27m E4,5c
    A strenuous and greasy route. Climb the left-hand of the two overhanging grooves right of Fools' Fantasy, past a bulge, until it is possible to swing right and finish up a short wall. Gear is good but exceedingly awkward to place.

  6. Right Little Raver 27m E5,6a *
    Good wall climbing between Wipeout and Nyth. Climb on good holds to a nut where the face is smoother and steeper. Continue to a flat greasy hold, then move up left to good nuts in a thin flake. Make a hard move up to gain the obvious crack out right, then traverse left into Wipeout to finish.

  7. Nyth 27m E3,6a *
    The right-hand of the overhanging grooves right of Fools Fantasy. Climb the wall, keeping left of the crack, until level with the base of the groove. Climb the groove to the top.

  8. Disneyworld 27m E6,6c
    Climb the wall underneath the roof stack left of Pluto. At the roof, swing right onto the wall of Pluto, TRs. Step round left and make problematic moves over the roof, then continue up the wall above, 2 PRs.

  9. Pluto 27m VS,4c ***
    A good line through some spectacular terrain, a must for any aspiring Ogmore leader. Climb the prominent groove. Swing left near the top, to finish up the left arête. It is also possible to finish direct at a slightly harder grade.

  10. Muttley - Mild VS
    Climbs the pocket covered wall left of Pluto. Start as for Pluto. Follow the groove of Pluto for 30 feet. Step left onto the wall and climb this steeply to the top. 28m

First Ascents

  1. P.Littlejohn, A.Sharp 25.05.1978
  2. P.Littlejohn, R.Thomas 00.07.1986
  3. P.Thomas, C.Horsfield 00.00.1974
    FFA P.Littlejohn 06.07.1977
  4. Martyn Richards. 2003
  5. P.Thomas, C.Horsfield 00.00.1974
    FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 07.05.1977
  6. P.Littlejohn, M.Moran 29.04.1984
  7. P.Thomas, J.Harwood 1pt 18.06.1975
    FFA P.Littlejohn, J.Mothersele 19.05.1977
  8. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 00.00.1990
  9. C.Horsfield, P.Thomas 00.00.1972
  10. S.Lewis, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 11/11/76