Stone Wings Cliff

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Stone Wings Cliff
Stone wings cliff.jpg
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 10 minutes
Area South Coast
Sub Area Witches Point
WGS-84 Location 51.442508, -3.604320
OS Grid Ref. SS 885 727
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.446124 -3.6053771
GR Parking Location SS 885 731
Parking Postcode CF32 ORT
Base Elevation 2 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction North
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Serious
Crags Within 2.0 km

Black Zawn, Cave Inlet, Davy Jones' Locker and the Sea Caves, Dirty Harry Walls, Dunraven Cliff, Elephant Wall, Every Persons Wall, First Inlet, Folded Walls, Fools Fantasy Area, Mitzy Wall, Ogmore Popular End, Phaser Wall, Playtime Wall, Right Hand Wall, Second Inlet, Stone Wings Cliff, The Biscuit, The Castle Area, The Long Wall, The Western Crag, Tiger Bay, Tusker Chimney Area, Twinkle Buttress, Witches Cave, Witches Tip

Stone Wings Cliff
Sport Grades
<= 6a+ 3
6b - 6c+ 3
7a - 7b 5
>= 7b+ 5



The Routes

The routes including and right of 'Staple Diet' are usually seepage free. In contrast routes to the left can suffer with annoyingly prolonged, localised seepage.

  1. Crime Slunk Scene - Fr. 7b **
    Poor looking rock, but a fun climb on good holds. Has a short but powerful sequence through the roof crack. Long extender on the 4th bolt is very helpful. 12m

  2. In Search Of Bedrock - Fr. 7a+
    Scary, despite being a clip up. As for Liassic Lark, but then move out left above the bulge, to pumpy, powerful climbing on wobbly holds to the BB. A true anti-classic! 24m

  3. Liassic Lark - Fr. 7a *
    The all too obvious overhanging jam crack through the bulge (you don't have to jam). Above the bulge step right to a BB. 14m

  4. Help, Help Me Rhondda - Fr. 7c *
    The wall to the right is quite straightforward to the undercuts at the base of the bulge. The next 2m provides a very powerful, but mercifully short sequence. 12m

  5. Dai Vinci Coed Fr 7c+ ***
    Break out right from a jug on the previous route. From the pod, move left on small holds to gain the L.O.

    Stone Wings Cliff.

  6. This God Is Mine - Fr. 7b+ ***
    Super climbing up the obvious bulge containing twin cracks in the upper wall. Unfortunately a couple of the the holds are usually wet. 17m
    Chris Savage on Masada Fr.8a. Photograph: Alan Rosier.

  7. Masada - Fr. 8a+ **
    The undercut wall to the right is hard, sustained and has a powerful crux at the end of an exhausting series of locks and lurches. Has seen a number of recent repeats. 17m

  8. Stone Wings - E5, 6a
    The big, bad, trad crack to the right is now free of its rest point. It is still utterly hideous. Tape up. Hexes are essential, Friends have ripped on many ascents and attempts and legs have been broken. 17m

  9. The Uninvited Guest - Fr. 7b+
    The wall to the right of Stone Wings, with a hard crux to reach the square-cut groove. From the top of the groove finish up the (easy) top section of Stone Wings. A Friend 3 is required for the top. 17m

  10. SuperSizeMe Fr 7c
    Follow Staple Diet to the flake then break out left up the hanging groove.17m.

  11. Staple Diet - Fr. 7b ***
    The impressive hanging groove at the right-hand side of the steep overhanging section is climbed with no particular crux, to final powerful moves up and out of a crack. 17m

  12. Tragic Moustache - Fr. 7a
    Just to the right is a small boulder, above which are two bolt lines. Climb the left-hand one with some difficulty to the ramp. Step up and climb the wall (poor bolts) to finish blindly over the roof to a monster bucket, which can be wet. 18m

  13. Five O'Clock Shadow - Fr. 6c+ *
    From the boulder, climb the right-hand side of the bulge to a big flake and a ramp. Continue up the awkward wall and faint rib to the obvious v-groove in the roof. Finish up this with difficulty. 18m

  14. Pelagic Mush - Fr. 6a
    The overlapping wall to the right is followed to ledges and a finish up the groove. 14m

  15. Sideburn - Fr. 6b
    A short hard boulder problem type route up the blind flake to the right. 11m

  16. Spear The Bearded Clam - Fr. 6a
    Has a tricky move. 11m

  17. Slurp The Savoury Oyster - Fr. 5+
    A greasy filler in to the right. The first bolts have no hangers so hook them with wires. 11m

  18. Magic Touch - Fr. 6b *
    A rising diagonal line. From the start of Pelagic Mush, traverse out left onto the shelf, and follow a rising traverse line leftwards to a belay above the top of Staple Diet.20m

There is a short break in the crag here, the escape route at high water.The short rock step is equipped with a mini "Via Ferrata" but take care as the ramp is often slippery. There are belays / abseil point at the base of Its Tufa At The Top. Alternatively climb out of PCB on the left of DUNRAVEN CLIFF


First Ascents

  1. W.Calvert, 09.07.2021
  2. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 16.07.1994
  3. R.Thomas 00.08.1994
  4. E.Travers-Jones 00.08.1993
  5. Rob Lamey 2013
  6. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 06.08.1994
  7. E.Travers-Jones 00.00.1995
  8. P.Littlejohn, S.Robinson 1pt 27.07.1979
    FFA G.Gibson, R.Thomas 19.06.1994
  9. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 02.07.1994
  10. P.Thomas 'The Snark' A1 00.00.1973
    FFA G.Gibson, R.Thomas 01.06.1993
  11. Simon Rawlinson 2013
  12. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 05.06.1993
  13. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 30.05.1996
  14. R.Thomas, G.Gibson 30.05.1993
  15. R.Thomas 04.06.1993
  16. R.Thomas 00.00.1998
  17. R.Thomas 00.00.1998
  18. P.Littlejohn 05.06.1979