Al Rosier on the roof finish of Raft of the Medusa Fr. 6c+ *
|Rock Type||Natural Carboniferous Limestone|
|Approach Time||20 minutes|
|Sub Area||Temple Bay Inlets|
|WGS-84 Location||51.441406, -3.6040641|
|OS Grid Ref.||SS 886 726|
|WGS-84 Parking Location||51.446124, -3.6053771|
|GR Parking Location||SS 885 731|
|Parking Postcode||CF32 0RT|
|Base Elevation||0 metres (Other)|
|Before/After Low Tide||4.0 hours (See Note)|
|Crags Within 2.0 km.|
Black Zawn, Cave Inlet, Davy Jones' Locker and the Sea Caves, Dirty Harry Walls, Dunraven Cliff, Elephant Wall, Every Persons Wall, First Inlet, Folded Walls, Fools Fantasy Area, Mitzy Wall, Ogmore Popular End, Phaser Wall, Playtime Wall, Right Hand Wall, Second Inlet, Stone Wings Cliff, The Biscuit, The Castle Area, The Long Wall, The Western Crag, Tiger Bay, Tusker Chimney Area, Twinkle Buttress, Witches Cave, Witches Tip
Park at the Dunraven Car Park.
If approaching at dead low tide, head across the beach and over the tip to land at the Sea Walls.
At any other time, follow the road and path (past the castle), and then a right fork (into the woods).
Once at the viewing point (past the right fork), continue for 50 m to a wooden gate on the left. Go through the gate, up the steps, and you will shortly reach the path to the beach (on the left), or, continuing for a little while longer meet a rusty iron kissing gate (directly above the Cave Inlets area). This point can also be reached by following clifftop footpaths over the headland and striking back towards the woods at the opposite cliff edge.
Continue around the corner east (right) to a small patch of sand and a taller section with a pillar and cave up and right.
- Jericho - E3, 5c
A deep water solo. Climb across from the fishermans ledge near the old sign board then up to a rubbly exit. 15m.
- Debasement of Jericho - VS, 4b
Could be a handy no water start to the previous or a solo in it's own right. The shorter of the two chimneys on the left. 5m.
- The Barnacle Bill - Fr. 6b
Short steep prow, take barnacled arête direct then exit on left to Fisher persons ledge and long sling belay over top. 6m
- Canaan Grunts - HVS, 4c
The barnacled chimney starting from the sand. Grind your way up to the ledge. 10m
- Hundred Years Of Reflection - Fr. 6b+ **
Reach the first holds swing up then stiff barnacle rasping gains a contorted rest, heartbreaker mantle onto the ledge joined by Zaccheus Repents. 14m.
- Dolce Et Decorum Est - Fr. 6b+ **
Swing in from the right, over the roof to join previous, then straight up to new chain belay. 14m
- Zacchaeus Repents - Fr. 6b+ *
The crinkly prow breaking out early from next route. 14m
- Chargeable Event - Fr. 6a *
The barnacled scoop and corner to shared belay above ledge. 14m.
- Lips off your Shofarot - Fr. 6a * Just to the right a barnacled wall leads to bridging up the slabby groove (purple thread). 15m.
At a higher level is the other cave which gives a little more time if climbing on an incoming tide. Best approached from the east via the "walled garden" approach if the tide has not cleared Witches Tip. There are no lower offs at present as it is assumed the sensible will use the routes to exit the area. Good belay on the ledge at the top of the crag, long slings could be arranged for lower offs. Due to theft of the bolt hangers off the platform bring your own spanner, or easier, a couple of pulled through wires, to hook the bolts. There are sufficient glue-ins to construct a belay if this proves too taxing.
- Lane Discipline - Fr. 6a *
The groove, can be started from sea level, or at higher tides step easily across from the cave ledge. 14m. LO.
- Hogging The Mid Lane - Fr. 6b *
Start just left of the cave passing a twizzle. Steep jug hauling leads to a long stretch and L.O. just below the ledge. 15m.
- Life In The Slow Lane - Fr. 6b+ *
Swing on up the left arête of the cave. Lower off can be arranged first or pull over easily. 15m.
The roof, some bolts yet to be placed.
- Quiet Flows The Jordan - Fr. 5
The blocky right side of the cave, swing on up to good belay at the top. 10m
- Sultan's Spring - Fr. 5+
A tricky bounce to start then jugs to the top. 10m
- Blowing The Ram's Horn - VS, 4c
The faint book corner to the right. 9m
Back down at sea level there is more
- Climb A Sycamore Tree - HVS, 5a
Easy scrambling leads to the hanging arête then step up the ledges to usual belay. 12m.
- Tumbledown - HS, 4b
As previous, then follow the ramp rightwards. 12m
Right again and at a higher level above the sand is another long cave; in the cave are:-
- Consequentialist Perfectionism - HVS, 5a
Short and sharp excursion, pull over the L side of the prow then proceed up stepped ledges to the terrace belay. 9m.
- Converted Traditionalist - Fr. 5+
Jug hauling to stepped ledges R of the Prow,big sling protects step off ledge.
- Perverted Exhibitionist - Fr. 6a *
Short jugglier than thou roofs.
- Nietzche's Niche - Fr. 5+ *
Jug hauling over the "fangs", 2 bolt wonder. L.O. at first wide ledge. 9m.
- Inverted Mentalist - Fr. 6b+ *
More jugs. Direct through the widest part of the horizontal roof. L.O. Shared with Reverted Revisionalist. 9 m.
- Reverted Revisionist - Fr. 6a+ *
Even more excellent jug hauling on the wall left of the big roof. 9m.
- Raft of the Medusa - Fr. 6c+ *
Rightward extension of Reverted Revisionist, across the rail in the horizontal roof. L.O. shared with Cannibal Calypso. 13 m.
- Cannibal Calypso - Fr. 7a *
Right of Reverted Revisionist, bridge up the left side of the cave to a capacious ledge. Step right and straight up to the roof. From a horn at the back of the roof, break out left throught the horizontal roofs to reach the L.O. shared with Raft of the Medusa. 14 m.
- Swinging the Lead - Fr. 6c *
Start up Cannibal Calypso to reach the horn at the back of the roof. From the horn, break out right to reach another jug and L.O. above. 12 m.
To the right is a pillar separating the two caves which the following routes start up.
- Diverted Existentialist- Fr. 6a+
A prickly excursion into the stepped caves and final roof.
- Cartesian Dualism - Fr. 5 *
Just left of the prow of the wall. Move right over the bulge to the shared belay. 9m.
- Descarte's Dithers - Fr. 5+ *
The steep prow shared belay. 9m.
- Archimedes Screws - Fr. 6a+ *
It's a topsy turvy world (on big jugs) until you reach the seperate belay. 9m.
- The Burning Glass - Fr. 6b **
More upside down antics. Not drawn on topo. 9m.
- Siege Of Syracuse - Fr. 6b **
More of the same. The route of the crag (so far). 10m.
- Jericho - Martin Crocker
- Debasement of Jericho - R.Thomas 1986
- The Barnacle Bill - R.Thomas 1986
- Canaan Grunts - R.Thomas N.O'Neill 04.07.2014
- Hundred Years Of Reflection - R.Thomas R.Leyshan R.Phillips 2011
- Dolce Et Decorum Est - R.Thomas
- Zacchaeus Repents - R.Thomas Eugene Travers-Jones 08/03/2014
- Chargeable Event - R.Thomas R.Phillips R.Leyshon 26.04.2014
- Lips off your Shofarot - R.Thomas G.Ashmore 2012
- Lane Discipline - R.Thomas
- Hogging The Mid Lane - R.Thomas
- Life In The Slow Lane - R.Thomas
- (Project) - The roof, some bolts yet to be placed.
- Quiet Flows The Jordan - R.Thomas
- Sultan's Spring - R.Thomas
- Blowing The Ram's Horn - R.Thomas
- Climb A Sycamore Tree - R.Thomas
- Tumbledown - R.Thomas
- Consequentialist Perfectionism - R.Thomas
- Converted Traditionalist - Converted Traditionalist - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, M.Toczek - 26.11.2018
- Perverted Exhibitionist - Perverted Exhibitionist - R.Thomas, A.Rosier, M.Toczek - 26.11.2018
- Nietzche's Niche - R.Thomas
- Inverted Mentalist - Inverted Mentalist - A.Rosier, R.Thomas - 20.11.2018
- Reverted Revisionist - R.Thomas
- Raft of the Medusa - Raft of the Medusa - A.Rosier, R.Thomas, M. Toczek - 26.11.2018
- Cannibal Calypso - Cannibal Calypso - A.Rosier, R.Thomas, M.Toczek - 26.11.2018
- Swinging the Lead - Swinging the Lead - A.Rosier, R.Thomas - 22.11.2018
- Diverted Existentialis - Diverted Existentialist R.Thomas 2019
- Cartesian Dualism - R.Thomas
- Descarte's Dithers - R.Thomas
- Archimedes Screws - R.Thomas
- The Burning Glass - R.Thomas
- Siege Of Syracuse - R.Thomas