Craig Y Castell Western Extension
| Craig Y Castell Western Extension | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Trad |
| Approach Time | 5 minutes |
| Area | Inland Limestone |
| Sub Area | Llangattock |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.842784, -3.2052583 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SO 17074 16704 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.843686, -3.20482 |
| GR Parking Location | SO 17101 16789 |
| Parking Postcode | NP8 1LB |
| Base Elevation | 400 metres (OS Estimation) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | North |
| Aspect | Rarely Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Seldomly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Seepage | |
| Crags Within 10.0 km | |
|
Buckland Hill, Craig Y Castell, Craig Y Castell Western Extension, Dyffryn Crawnon, Eastern Edge, Gilwern East, Gilwern Hill - Crag X, Llangattock, Llangynidr Quarry, The Lonely Shepherd, Trefil | |
PREAMBLE
Up the road by the limekiln is another worthwhile wall offering compact rock and adequate gear. It catches the late afternoon sun but is particularly slippery when wet. Belay from bent rebar on the right side or a rock 8 and spike on the left. Descent is straightforward, go down to the left.
ACCESS
Park up in the layby high up on the Beaufort Road out of Llangattock, near a lime kiln, the crag is uphill and to your right.
THE ROUTES
1 The Smile 15m D 4b
Climb the tricky chimney to the continuation groove and large ledge.
2 Layback and Enjoy the Ride 15m E1 5b
Climb just right of the chimney to the grooved arête above and a finish over the overlap via the obvious flake.
3 When the Sun Shines * 15m HVS 5a
Climb the wall right again to the groove above and prominent overhang. Climb the off-width crack and scramble to the top.
4 Foundation Crack 15m VS 4c
Start at the boulder and climb directly to the ledge at half height. Continue via the open groove and crack above to easier climbing.
5 Royal Welsh 15m E1 5b
Start right of the boulder and climb the crack above to a ledge below the overhang. Step right and climb the open groove to the next overhang. Climb this on the left of the arête to an easier finish. The bolder left-hand variation goes at E2.
6 Farmer's Arms * 15m E1 5b
Climb the crack immediately left of the cave directly to the ledge. Continue up the cracked wall above trending slightly left to the short corner. Climb this and then spectacularly up the rightward leaning wide layback crack to the top.
7 Double Duplicity * 15m E2 5b
Climb the leaning groove to the right of the cave with some difficulty to the ledge. Continue more amenably up the wall above to the perch below the large overhang. Climb this to the left and then continue boldly past the sapling to the top.
8 Wide Legged and Eyeless * 15m E1 5b
Climb the slab up and left to a ledge. Ascend the short wall to the gymnastic overhang and lovely groove which maintains interest to the top.
9 Bananas 10m S 4a
Scramble up rocks and grass to the ledge at one third height. Climb the crack in the wall to the wide ledge. Step left and climb the corner on clean rock to the top.
First Ascents
- Nona Thomas & Peter Blackburn April 2007
- Peter Blackburn & Paul Tucker May 2012
- Peter Blackburn & Nona Thomas May 2007
- Peter Blackburn & Nona Thomas May 2007
- Peter Blackburn & Nona Thomas May 2007
- Peter Blackburn & Nona Thomas April 2007
- Peter Blackburn & Nona Thomas May 2007
- Peter Blackburn & Nona Thomas May 2007
- Peter Blackburn & Nona Thomas May 2007
ADDITIONAL PHOTOS
Notes
The following routes are also in this area and are likely to have been preceded by those above.
Routes listed from left to right when facing crag.
Marks Small Wall VS 4b
The short wall on the right of the buttress.
Guy Percival - Solo On Sight 07.07.17
Extension Arête E3 5c**
Climb the steep blunt arête, stepping left where the angle eases with some precarious moves to a good jug.
Guy Percival - Solo 07.07.17
Marks Overhang VS 5a*
Climb the crack to the small overhang, make a long move through the left side and pull over on good holds. An alternative easier finish through the right side of the overhang can be climbed.
Guy Percival - Solo On Sight 07.07.17
Right Hand Arête HVS 5b
The blunt right arête with the hardest moves near the ground.
Guy Percival - Solo 07.07.17
Done Years Ago HVS 5a
The right lower end of the big wall via a thin vertical crack in the middle.
Guy Percival - Solo 07.07.17
Marks Slab VD
The small slab up the slope.
Unknown first ascenscionist.
Small Arête HVD
The arête using the crack to start.
Guy Percival - Solo On Sight 07.07.17
Marks Wall VS 5a
The middle of the wall moving left near the top
Guy Percival - Lead On Sight 07.07.17
Western Groove E1 5c
The steep groove with a hard move from the slot, harder than it looks.
Guy Percival - Solo On Sight 07.07.17
Marks Overhanging Groove VS 5a
The blocky overhanging wall to the right of the groove.
Guy Percival - Solo On Sight 07.07.17
Cave Roof E1 5b*
From the cave entrance climb the wide crack to the ledge. step up right and take the wall to the roof. Move through its left side with tricky moves to gain good holds in the niche, and an easier finish.
Guy Percival - 07.07.17
Cave Groove HVS 5b
Climb the slab to the ledge. Pull up right wards onto the large block. Pull through the little overhang into the groove, and easing difficulty to the top.
Guy Percival - 07.07.17
Firing Blanks HVD
The escapable left arête of the wall.
Guy Percival - Solo 07.07.17
Bullet Wall E3 5b/c*
Climb the wall to the right of firing blanks. Runners are placed in on the right to prevent a tumble down the bank . Short but feels quite commiting.
Guy Percival - 07.07.17
