Secret Taffs Well
| Secret Taffs Well | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport |
| Approach Time | 5 minutes |
| Area | Inland Limestone |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.538584, -3.2598406 |
| OS Grid Ref. | 312721, 182940 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.536586, -3.2582862 |
| GR Parking Location | 312825, 182715 |
| Base Elevation | 71 metres (SRTM Estimation) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South West |
| Aspect | Never Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Seldomly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Midge Problem | Never |
| Seepage | Quick drying |
| Crags Within 10.0 km. | |
|
Brittania Quarry, Castle Quarry, Coedcaerau-bach, Cox's Quarry, Cwm Leyshon Quarry, Glynfach, Golf Club Crag, Llanbradach Lower Tier, Llanbradach Upper Tier, Llantrisant Drugs Cliff, Porth, Secret Taffs Well, Senghenydd, Sirhowy - Quarry Mawr, Sugardaddy Gasworks, Taffs Well, Taffs Well Pinnacle, Taffs Well West, Taffs West Railway Cutting, The Darren, Trehafod, Tyn-y-coed, Wenvoe Quarry | |
PREAMBLE
Here, we provide to you the chance to sample the unique and hidden delights of Secret Taffs Well. A deep and narrow ravine, cut by miners to extract a vertical iron ore vein over 150 years ago. It looks like a smaller, inland version of Huntsman's Leap (the comparisons end there unfortunately).
The crag defines the term esoteric and will certainly indulge the aficionado. The two bridging routes are quite unique, and are good, safe, practice climbs for chimney enthusiasts or budding cavers.
It is best sampled on cloudless summer days, to escape the heat, or on windy days when squalls soak all other crags.
High humidity without any breeze will see the the walls of the chasm drip with condensation, luckily Taffs Main is a fine retreat if this is the case.
ACCESS
Use the small path to the left of the gate at Taffs Well parking spot. Follow this until it ends at the base of a slabby buttress (51.537149, -3.258869).
From just before the slab, drop downhill, following the cleared vegetation. After passing an abandoned campsite, the path continues immediately adjacent to the A470 slip road fence line. After 90m from the slab (51.537764,-3.259715), cut briefly uphill and then to the left as vegetation dictates, soon passing a low cave.
Look out for a yellow poly rope, which will guide you towards a scramble up a steep bank and a series of rock steps (not suitable for unassisted dogs). You will know when you have arrived.
THE ROUTES
The right wall of the chasm contains the routes, as the rock is much better quality. Routes are described left to right facing this wall. As you are always directly beneath the clifftop, a helmet is advisable.
- Unknown Pleasures - Fr. 6c
Starts a metre up the slope. Finishing left of the chockstone. 12 m - Rock and a Hard Place - Fr. 4+
Bridge upwards clipping bolts on Unknown Pleasures. 12 m - Dark Desires - Fr. 6b
Wynde your way upwards, to a pocketed headwall and chain L.O. Bridging is just not cricket old boy. 10 m. - Bridge Club - Fr. 5
Bridge up the chasm, clipping the same bolts as Dark Desires, whilst battling with an ever growing ass-pump. 10 m. - Crack Dancing - Fr. 6b
Hard to spot bolt hangers. From the niche make an odd sequence of moves to reach the lower off. 9 m - Light Chaser - Fr. 6b
Awkward start leads to big side pulls through the bulge and a long reach to finish. 8 m.
First Ascents
- Unknown Pleasures - A.Rosier, R.McAllister- 28.06.2020
- Rock and a Hard Place - A.Rosier, R.McAllister - 28.06.2020
- Dark Desires - A.Rosier, R.McAllister - 05.06.2020
- Bridge Club - A.Rosier, R.McAllister - 05.06.2020
- Crack Dancing - A.Rosier, R.McAllister - 28.06.2020
- Light Chaser - R.McAllister, A.Rosier - 28.06.2020
ADDITIONAL PHOTOS
Notes
No star rating given to climbs yet, lets see how people feel about them first.
