Rolly Bottom Buttress
From South Wales Climbing Wiki
| Rolly Bottom Buttress | |
 Rolly Bottom Buttress from the east. | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Trad |
| Approach Time | 20 minutes |
| Area | Gower |
| Sub Area | Rhossili |
| Local Area | Upper Crags Fall Bay To Mewslade |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.561792, -4.284171 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 417 872 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.565848, -4.270856 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 427 876 |
| Parking Postcode | SS 417 872 |
| Base Elevation | 18 metres (SRTM Estimation) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South |
| Aspect | Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Mostly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Seepage | |
| Crags Within 400m | |
|
Block Buttress, Catacomb Gully, Cathedral Wall, Conglomerate Cliff, Devil's Truck Area, Eyeball Wall, Four Gullies, Giant's Cave, Grey Wall, Hairy Dog Wall, Jacky's Tor, King Wall, Lewes Castle, Little Block, Molar Wall and White Edge, Rolly Bottom Buttress, The Aisle, The Prows, The Pulpit, Thurba Head, Thurba West, Trident Gully and Ridge, Upper Jacky's Tor, Yellow Wall, Zero Gully | |
Contents
Tidal Status
Bon-tidal.
Bolting Policy
No Bolting.
Preamble
This is the prominent buttress to the right (east) of Upper Jackys Tor. It has an obvious black-stained wall in its centre.
Access
See Upper Crags Fall Bay To Mewslade access notes.
Descents
The Routes
- Rolly Poly Arête - E2,5c
The left arête of Rolly Bottom Buttress. Start as for that route and ascend ledges to pull onto a horizontal break below the arête (right of the groove). Take the arête on its right side to easy ground and finish up Rolly Bottom Buttress. 30m. - Rolly Bottom Buttress - VS,4c
A little loose in places. Start at the left-hand side of the buttress, climb steep rock and gain a groove. At its top continue up a thinner crack in the same line to the top. 30m. - The Sandpiper - E3,5c *
A sustained and worthwhile pitch. Climb straight up the black streak and the middle of the wall above, until a blind pull around a small roof leads to looser but easier climbing. Lots of small wires. 30m. - Snidewhiner - E3,6a
The convex arête. Start as for Sandpiper, follow the enormous flake on the right and pull up into the horizontal break. Take the arête on its left side, via an undercut on the face, to a narrow incut hand ledge. Gain easier ground above and exit rightwards. 30m. - Sidewinder - HVS,5a
Climb a short corner on the right side of the buttress and step left into a broken groove. Avoid it by taking the jamming crack on the right, to finish up a clean corner. 30m.
Below and right of Rolly Bottom Buttress is a cave with a slab above it. - Trivial Pursuit - HVD
Climb the right side of the cave to a ledge, step onto a block at the foot of the slab and continue to the path. 18m.
First Ascents
- Rolly Poly Arête - M.Crocker 05.12.1998
- Rolly Bottom Buttress - G.Evans, L.Moran 00.00.1990
- The Sandpiper - P.Boardman, G.Williams, W.Hurford 3pt - Rolly Bottom Buttress 00.00.1970
FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 12.03.1983 - Snidewhiner - M.Crocker 05.12.1998
- Sidewinder - A.Sharp, J.Harwood 20.03.1982
- Trivial Pursuit -G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1988
