Rolly Bottom Buttress

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Rolly Bottom Buttress
Rolly Bottom Buttress from the east.
Rolly Bottom Buttress from the east.
Rock Type Quarried Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 20 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Rhossili
Local Area Upper Crags Fall Bay To Mewslade
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.561792, -4.284171
OS Grid Ref. SS 417 872
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.565848, -4.270856
GR Parking Location SS 427 876
Parking Postcode SS 417 872
Base Elevation 18 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction South
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Seepage
Crags Within 400m

Block Buttress, Catacomb Gully, Cathedral Wall, Conglomerate Cliff, Devil's Truck, Eyeball Wall, Four Gullies, Giant's Cave, Grey Wall, Hairy Dog Wall, Jacky's Tor, King Wall, Lewes Castle, Little Block, Molar Wall and White Edge, Rolly Bottom Buttress, The Aisle, The Prows, The Pulpit, Thurba Head, Thurba West, Trident Gully and Ridge, Upper Jacky's Tor, Yellow Wall, Zero Gully

Tidal Status

Bon-tidal.

Bolting Policy

No Bolting.

Preamble

This is the prominent buttress to the right (east) of Upper Jackys Tor. It has an obvious black-stained wall in its centre.

Access

See Upper Crags Fall Bay To Mewslade access notes.

Descents

The Routes

  1. Rolly Poly Arête - E2,5c
    The left arête of Rolly Bottom Buttress. Start as for that route and ascend ledges to pull onto a horizontal break below the arête (right of the groove). Take the arête on its right side to easy ground and finish up Rolly Bottom Buttress. 30m.

  2. Rolly Bottom Buttress - VS,4c
    A little loose in places. Start at the left-hand side of the buttress, climb steep rock and gain a groove. At its top continue up a thinner crack in the same line to the top. 30m.
  3. The Sandpiper - E3,5c *
    A sustained and worthwhile pitch. Climb straight up the black streak and the middle of the wall above, until a blind pull around a small roof leads to looser but easier climbing. Lots of small wires. 30m.

  4. Snidewhiner - E3,6a
    The convex arête. Start as for Sandpiper, follow the enormous flake on the right and pull up into the horizontal break. Take the arête on its left side, via an undercut on the face, to a narrow incut hand ledge. Gain easier ground above and exit rightwards. 30m.

  5. Sidewinder - HVS,5a
    Climb a short corner on the right side of the buttress and step left into a broken groove. Avoid it by taking the jamming crack on the right, to finish up a clean corner. 30m.

    Below and right of Rolly Bottom Buttress is a cave with a slab above it.

  6. Trivial Pursuit - HVD
    Climb the right side of the cave to a ledge, step onto a block at the foot of the slab and continue to the path. 18m.

First Ascents

  1. Rolly Poly Arête - M.Crocker 05.12.1998
  2. Rolly Bottom Buttress - G.Evans, L.Moran 00.00.1990
  3. The Sandpiper - P.Boardman, G.Williams, W.Hurford 3pt - Rolly Bottom Buttress 00.00.1970
    FFA A.Sharp, J.Harwood 12.03.1983
  4. Snidewhiner - M.Crocker 05.12.1998
  5. Sidewinder - A.Sharp, J.Harwood 20.03.1982
  6. Trivial Pursuit -G.Evans, J.Bullock 00.00.1988

Additional Photos

Notes