Eyeball Wall

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Eyeball Wall
Eyeball Wall
Eyeball Wall
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 25 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Rhossili
Local Area Fall Bay to Mewslade
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.561632, -4.285699
OS Grid Ref. SS 416 872
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.567326, -4.278292
GR Parking Location SS 421 878
Parking Postcode SA3 1PH
Base Elevation 1 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction West
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Serious
Seepage Quick drying
Crags Within 400m

Block Buttress, Catacomb Gully, Cathedral Wall, Conglomerate Cliff, Devil's Truck Area, Eyeball Wall, Four Gullies, Giant's Cave, Hairy Dog Wall, Jacky's Tor, King Wall, Lewes Castle, Molar Wall and White Edge, Rolly Bottom Buttress, The Aisle, The Prows, The Pulpit, Trident Gully and Ridge, Upper Jacky's Tor, Yellow Wall



TIDAL STATUS

BOLTING POLICY

PREAMBLE

The smooth crack-seamed wall opposite Yellow Wall and right of Conglomerate Cliff provides a number of shorter routes. An abseil rope is recommended to avoid the epic scramble up from the finish of the rock.

ACCESS

DESCENTS

THE ROUTES

  1. Contact 10.10 12m E4,6a
    Climb the black scoop and thin crack on the left side of the face. Exit right from the crack to a shallow groove.

  2. Fovea 40 12m E3,6a
    Start down and right of Contact 10.10 under a scoop containing some conglomerate holds. Make tricky moves out of the scoop (in situ hex) and pull up on crozzles to a flat hold. Finish direct.

  3. Eyeline 12m E3,5c
    Climb the scoop and crack between Fovea 40 and Specky Four Eyes, with a prominent TR at 8m.

  4. Specky Four Eyes 12m E2,5c
    Start at the foot of a diagonal fault that runs rightward towards the headland. Climb a scoop moving right to a jug, then move up right and back left to a crack leading to a belay.

  5. Eyeball to Eyeball 12m E2,5c
    Start at the right side of the face. Climb to the left side of the diagonal fault line, poor TR. Move up to stand on another fault. Go over the bulge to a vertical slot, then up to a break above and a short wall to easier ground.

FIRST ASCENTS

  1. M.Crocker, M.Ward, R.Thomas 30.08.1986
  2. R.Thomas, M.Ward, M.Crocker 31.08.1986
  3. R.Thomas, M.Ward, M.Crocker 30.08.1986
  4. M.Crocker, M.Ward, R.Thomas 30.08.1986
  5. M.Ward, M.Crocker, R.Thomas 30.08.1986