Grey Wall

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Grey Wall
Grey Wall
Grey Wall
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 15 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Rhossili
Local Area Upper Crags Fall Bay To Mewslade
WGS-84 Location 51.561926, -4.279876
OS Grid Ref. SS 427 876
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.565848, -4.270856
GR Parking Location SS 427 876
Parking Postcode SA3 1PH
Base Elevation 28 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction South
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Seldomly
Climbing Type Normal
Seepage Quick drying
Crags Within 400m

Block Buttress, Catacomb Gully, Cathedral Wall, Conglomerate Cliff, Four Gullies, Grey Wall, Jacky's Tor, Mewslade Quarry Slab, Mewslade Short Wall, Molar Wall and White Edge, Richards Rock, Rolly Bottom Buttress, The Aisle, The Prows, The Pulpit, Thurba Head, Thurba West, Trident Gully and Ridge, Upper Jacky's Tor, Zero Gully

Tidal Status


Bolting Policy

No bolting.


Described in the 2003 guidebook as "uninspiring" and "rarely visited", this small crag is well worth a visit if only to climb PMC II or Direct.


See Upper Crags Fall Bay To Mewslade access notes.


The Routes

Grey Wall

The old route Quergang (J.Talbot, B.Talbot 1966) has been superseded by more recent lines.[1]

  1. Grey Day Plus E2,5b
    Start below the centre of the large roof at the left-hand end of the crag. Climb leftwards up the compact wall left of the obvious flake of The Queer Gang and exit round the left-hand side of the roof. 15m.

  2. The Queer Gang E2,5b
    The obvious left-facing flake line and weakness in the roof. Follow the flake to the roof, extend for the big projecting block overhead, then finish up the groove above. Very reach dependent. The vertically challenged can take a tricky traverse right into the finish of direct at the same grade. 15m.

  3. Direct E3,5c
    A direct line just right of the overhang. 30m.

  4. Superdirect E3,6a
    Start to the right of Direct. Climb to a bulge and take the grey streak above to good fingerholds and the horizontal break. Step left and finish easily. 30m.

  5. Ermintrude E1,5b
    Take a broken groove right of Superdirect to a niche before continuing direct to a horizontal crack and a small ledge, then the top. 13m.

  6. Gurtrude E2,5c
    The shallow groove right of Ermintrude. 15m.

  7. PMC II HVS,5b *
    The groove right of Gurtrude and left of South East Chimney. A good route and tougher than it looks. 13m.

  8. Tipped To Be Massive E3,5c
    From the foot of PMC II move right over the pillar and climb direct to a rightward slanting crack which leads to a horizontal break. Continue up the headwall via a series of flakes, slightly to the right. 15m.

  9. South East Chimney D
    Follow the obvious chimney to the top. 15m.

  10. Wall And Corner VS,4b
    Start 2m right of South East Chimney. Climb rightwards to a ledge, then a corner on the right wall to the top. A harder version can be climbed on the left wall of the corner. 13m.

First Ascents

  1. Grey Day Plus - M.Crocker 07.11.1998
  2. The Queer Gang - M.Crocker 07.11.1998
  3. Direct - R.Corbett - Direct 00.00.1962
    FFA P.James 00.00.1984
  4. Superdirect - M.Crocker 07.11.1998
  5. Ermintrude - M.Jones, P.Murphy 00.00.1982
  6. Gurtrude - M.Crocker 07.11.1998
  7. PMC II - S.Vince, J.Makin 00.00.0000
  8. Tipped To Be Massive - M.Crocker 07.11.1998
  9. South East Chimney - J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959
  10. Wall And Corner - J.Talbot, D.Thomas 00.00.1959

Additional Photos


  1. Quergang - An interesting free and easy artificial route. 100ft., IV, A1
    Start in a line just below the L side of the overhang and climb a wall directly up to its left edge. Traverse R below the overhang, then continue across the wall R at the same level by a horizontal crack to reach an obvious corner. Climb this to the top.
    Talbot, J, Gower Peninsula, 1970. p. 89.