Yellow Wall Pitch 1. Climber: Terry Holmes. Photograph: Alan Firth
|Rock Type||Natural Carboniferous Limestone|
|Approach Time||25 minutes|
|Local Area||Fall Bay to Mewslade|
|WGS-84 Location||51.562144, -4.286106|
|OS Grid Ref.||SS 416 872|
|WGS-84 Parking Location||51.565848, -4.270856|
|GR Parking Location||SS 427 876|
|Parking Postcode||SA3 1PJ|
|Base Elevation||0 metres (Other)|
|Before/After Low Tide||3.0 hours (See Note)|
|Crags Within a Half Mile.|
Black Wall, Block Buttress, Castaway Cove, Catacomb Gully, Cathedral Wall, Conglomerate Cliff, Devil's Truck Area, Eyeball Wall, Four Gullies, Giant's Cave, Grey Wall, Hairy Dog Wall, Jacky's Tor, King Wall, Lewes Castle, Mewslade Quarry Slab, Mewslade Short Wall, Molar Wall and White Edge, Richards Rock, Rolly Bottom Buttress, Seamen Wall, Shipwreck Cove, Tears Point, Thurba Head, Thurba West, Trident Gully and Ridge, Upper Jacky's Tor, Yellow Wall
|RAD Notice/Restriction||Yellow Wall@BMC RAD|
|E1 - E3||11|
|E4 - E5||6|
3 hours either side of low water (routes on the left) to non-tidal (routes on the right)
This is the rather obvious wall dominating the cove. The first easily identifiable feature is the square corner of Skylark.
1. 5 Minutes to Kill 24m E3,6a
A vague line up the grooves left of Winter Warmer. Climb up and leftwards to a good ledge, step right and climb the arête and wall to gain a sloping ramp. Climb the right wall past a large flake then follow poor rock to the top.
2. Winter Warmer 24m E3,6a
Takes the shallow groove systems just left of the corner of Skylark. Boulder out the bulge just left of Skylark, via a crack, to a ledge. Climb right into a groove then back left to gain a left sloping ramp. Join Muppet Show to finish.
- Yellow HammerE5 6a
Start 1m R of winter warmer taking the obvious thin crack in the L wall of the groove of SkylarkMartyn Richards Andy Sharp 30/08/2014
3. Skylark 39m E2,5c *
Start below an overhang above which is a clean-cut corner. Climb to the overhang at 4m, move to its left end, then over it rightwards. Traverse rightwards into a clean-cut corner, climb it to a ledge, step up into a short groove, then climb the wall above to finish up a crack in the steep wall just left of the arête.
- Code YellowE4 6a
A super direct start to enigma starting as for Skylark M.Richards A.Sharp 30/08/2014.
4. Enigma 39m E4,6b **
As for Muppet Show to the horizontal break at 4m, then follow a line of undercuts up leftwards to an overhang. Climb through the small overhang via a thin crack, then move right into Muppet Show. Continue straight up the bulging groove above until it blanks out. Traverse left to the arête on sloping holds and follow it delicately to the top. It is possible to gain the thin crack directly for a more direct outing.
5. Enigma Variation 39m E5,6b *
The final bulging groove of Enigma is taken directly, PR. A belay at the base of the groove is advisable.
6. Muppet Show 39m E1,5a *
A fine route. Climb a groove below a small jutting prow under the lowest line of overhangs, to the horizontal break at 4m. Climb leftwards to below the bulging groove, then traverse left to reach easy ground at the top of the corner of Skylark. Either abseil off old peg runners and a block on the left, or finish up Skylark.
7. Heroin 49m E5,6a,6b,5b *
- 24m Follow Enigma to a large ledge in the groove just left of the arête.
- 12m Move right onto the wall, PR, swing onto the arête and climb the wall left of the arête (peg runner), then move back onto the arête which leads to a ledge, PB.
- 12m Climb straight up the arête above. Exit left to finish.
8. Chasing the Dragon 45m E8,6c **
- 15m As for pitch one of Yellow Wall to gain a belay in the cave halfway up (thread belay).
- 30m Move up and right as for Yellow Wall, but at the base of the groove move left to the base of the wall and make a very long reach up for a jug (peg runner). Hard powerful moves up the wall (peg runner) gain the arête and finish of Heroin.
Currently reckoned to be the hardest trad route on the wiki.
9. Yellow Wall 45m E3,5c,5c ***
Start beneath the most prominent groove in the centre-left of the wall beneath a triagular overhang.
- 33m Climb the first groove to the overhang, move left to a possible belay in a cave. Move diagonally rightwards, PR, to the obvious corner. Climb stylishly or fight your way to a large ledge.
- 12m Climb the leftward-leaning groove on the left side of the ledge. A bold start leads to slightly more secure climbing and the top.
10. Hard Liner 45m E6,6b,5b **
A tiring and technical start leads to a wild excursion up the arête between Yellow Wall and Steam Train. Start as for Steam Train.
- 33m Follow the groove of Steam Train to the roof. Continue direct up the overhanging grey groove (peg runner) and reach the main rising break (junction with Steam Train). Pull into the groove of Steam Train, then swing left into a bottomless groove. Climb the groove (peg runner) to gain a break above in the arête. Ignore the rightward escape and make two long moves up the final arête to the Yellow Wall belay ledge.
- 12m Climb the cracks and flakes towards the right-hand side of the back wall to the top.
11. Steam Train 45m E4,6a,5b **
This takes the narrow groove and crack right of Yellow Wall. Start at a large boulder 1m right of Yellow Wall.
- 33m Step right from the boulder and follow a shallow groove with a red left wall to the overhangs. Traverse right 3m and step up to another groove. Move up deviously to reach a horizontal break and a ledge.
- 12m From the right end of the ledge, traverse rightwards around the arête to gain a red slab which is traversed to a groove (Transformer). Move up the groove 1m, then traverse left to another short groove that leads to the top. A direct finish climbs from the ledge up the middle of the wall above at 6a.
12. Transformer 48m E3,6a,5c *** ?
The route takes the prominent slanting grooves in the centre-right of the wall. Start 6m right of Yellow Wall beneath a block overhang at the base of a corner.
- 27m Climb round the hideous lower roof (crux), then follow the corner and rightward-slanting groove. At 20m, the groove curves back left to a platform and belay.
- 21m Step airily right around an arête into a groove. Reach the diagonal break (tricky) and move up into the obvious deep crack on the right wall. Muscle up this to the top. A variation finish traverses left into a stepped groove system.
13. Yellow Regeneration 51m E6,6b,6b *** ?
A magnificent route up the overhanging wall and arête between Transformer and Holy Grail. Start 6m right of Transformer. Some of the in-situ gear needs replacing.
- 27m Climb a narrow groove to roofs, pull out left, TR, to gain a diagonal ramp, PR, then cross the overhung wall left to jugs, TR. Stand up and follow the diagonal crack left to move up onto an angular block.
- 24m Climb up right to a narrow footledge below the arête, PR. Climb the arête, TR, then a long reach leads to easier ground.
14. Man Of The Earth 40m E6,6b,6b *** ?
A thuggish route of the highest quality. Start at a slim groove between Transformer and Yellow Regeneration.
- 20m Climb the groove, PR, to a break, then cross the overhanging right wall, PR, into a shallow groove, TR, leading to good holds. Swing up leftwards, PR, through overhanging rock to gain overhung ledges, PR. Power through a bulge, TR, to reach a break, TR. Climb past another break to a PB.
- 20m Climb a shallow groove above, old BR, then swing left and climb a thin crack in the headwall, PR, TR,
to good jugs. Finish awkwardly.
15. Skyhedral Wall 45m E6,6b *** ?
A long pitch, albeit with three good shakeouts. Medium Friends and large wires are useful. Start at a small cave 3m right of Yellow Regeneration. Climb overhanging layback cracks, TR, PR, and swarm over a capping bulge on the left to reach a handrail leading rightward to a good rest. Climb diagonally left, PR, to a niche with plentiful jugs. Take a slim groove on the right to another niche, TR. Power over the bulge above, 2PRs and continue up a thin left-facing groove to a horizontal break. Hand-traverse left and from a thin short crack, crank over a bulge, PR, to a juggy rising break. Rockover into a shallow niche, reach a good break and bear left to finish at a small left-facing groove. Since the first ascent, the pitch has sometimes split by taking a stance out right, reducing the grade to E5.
16. Holy Grail 45m E2,5b ** ?
Not for those whose mothers smell of elderberries. More solid than it looks. This takes the broken corner formed where Yellow Wall meets the shattered face at the back of the cove, to reach the prominent acute corner high up on Yellow Wall. Start at a jutting block below an overhang at 21m. Climb deviously leftward to gain a small ledge. Move left to the corner and up to the overhang. Move left to gain the superb final corner and the top.
17. Gafaelwy 45m E2,5b,5c * ?
Start right of Holy Grail, below a jutting block.
- 27m Gain the jutting block, then up and left to the corner crack and overhang on Holy Grail. Go over this, then right to a stance below a wide chimney crack.
- 21m Step left and climb a thin crack via overhangs to the top.
18. Pilgrim 42m E1,5b,5b ???
- 27m As for Gafaelwy.
- 15m Climb the obvious wide crack that trends right to the top.
19. Germany Calling 50m E3,5c,5b,5a * ?
The obvious right to left break at one-third height. Start as for Man Of The Earth.
- 20m Traverse to a belay on Yellow Wall.
- 18m Traverse to Muppet Show.
- 12m Finish up Muppet Show.
20. Transverse 30m E2,6a,5a ?
The traverse line below Germany Calling.
- 21m Start as for Transformer. Climb to the first break and move left to gain the traverse line which is followed to Skylark. Belay.
- 9m Finish up Skylark or continue traversing past Winter Warmer and down left to a ledge. Climb a thin crack to a sloping stance and the top.
- 5 Minutes to Kill - A.Sharp, R.Powles 26.10.1987
- Winter Warmer - M.Learoyd, R.Thomas 1985
- Skylark - C.King, S.Monks 10.1978
- Enigma - J.Talbot, R.Corbett - Red Slab 1962
FFA P.Littlejohn, S.Lewis, C.Curle 28.11.1982
A.American, A.Richardson - Direct 1985
- Enigma Variation - M.Crocker, M.Ward 15.08.1987
- Muppet Show - A.Sharp 1976
P.Littlejohn, C.King - Direct Finish 1977
- Heroin - M.Crocker, M.Ward 31.08.1986
- Chasing the Dragon - A.Berry 02.09.1999
- Yellow Wall - J.Talbot, R.Corbett 1962 V,A2
FFA P.Littlejohn, A.Houghton 02.1972
- Hard Liner - M.Crocker 05.10.1991
- Steam Train - M.Fowler, M.Morrison 1pt 21.04.1977
FFA A.Sharp, P.Lewis 1985
P.Littlejohn, L. Foulkes - Direct 10.1985
- Transformer - E.Pardoe, M.Hogge - Lap Of The Gods 1969
P.Littlejohn, A.McFarlane 1973
C.King, S.Monks - Direct 10.1978
- Yellow Regeneration - M.Crocker, R.Thomas, M.Ward 30.08.1986
- Man Of The Earth - G.Gibson, R.Thomas 15.10.1989
- Skyhedral Wall - M.Crocker 06.10.1991
- Holy Grail - P.Littlejohn, J.Harwood 03.10.1980
- Gafaelwy - E.Pardoe, R.Griffiths - 11.1966
FFA S.Lewis, P.Littlejohn 1980
- Pilgrim - E.Pardoe, L.Costello 1966
- Germany Calling - A.Sharp, P.Lewis 1985
- Transverse - G.Williams, J.Baylis, P.Kokelaar - Girdle 1969
FFA S.Lewis, G.Lewis 1985