Devil's Truck Area
|Devil's Truck Area|
|Rock Type||Natural Carboniferous Limestone|
|Approach Time||20 minutes|
|Local Area||Fall Bay to Mewslade|
|WGS-84 Location||51.561633, -4.287369|
|OS Grid Ref.||SS 415 872|
|WGS-84 Parking Location||51.565848, -4.270856|
|GR Parking Location||SS 427 876|
|Parking Postcode||SA3 1PJ|
|Base Elevation||4 metres (Other)|
|Faces Direction||South West|
|Before/After Low Tide||2.5 hours (See Note)|
|Crags Within a Half Mile.|
Block Buttress, Catacomb Gully, Cathedral Wall, Conglomerate Cliff, Devil's Truck Area, Eyeball Wall, Four Gullies, Giant's Cave, Grey Wall, Hairy Dog Wall, Jacky's Tor, King Wall, Lewes Castle, Mermaid Wall, Mewslade Short Wall, Molar Wall and White Edge, Richards Rock, Rolly Bottom Buttress, Tears Point, Thurba Head, Thurba West, Trident Gully and Ridge, Upper Jacky's Tor, Yellow Wall
West (left) buttress non-tidal. Other facets 2½ hours either side of low water.
Descent is by walking down the platform westwards towards Giant’s Cave.
This is the headland east of Giant's Cave and consists of four distinct areas. The western part of the crag rises up above a non-tidal platfrom. Beyond the arête of this wall is the east face, which continues back beyond the normal line of cliffs to give High Chimney Gully. East again is South Cracked Pillar.
- Chin Up - VS,4c
Climbs the west-facing wall above South West Face. Start below the obvious corner which curves into an overlap near the top of the crag. Gain the foot of the corner and pull left onto the wall. Continue up this, steady, to gain the ridge of The Razor. Belay, then shimmy along the ridge to land.
- Crack Up - HS, 4b
The cracks above the terrace of Devil's Truck, starting near the hole. Climb nervously over fractured rock to belay on the ridge. Stay roped up and return via the ridge - dancing along the crest or au cheval - the choice is yours.
South West Face
- Lytel 8m S
The leftmost groove on the wall, above a low shelf.
- Legge 9m S,4a
The wall to the right of Lytel, gained from The Nose.
- The Nose15m HS,4a *
Climb the longer shallow groove to the right.
- Nervus 15m VS,4c
Climb the narrow recessed wall just right of The Nose, over an overlap with a red mark below it. Move right to finish up Transit.
- Transit 15m HS,4b
Climb the narrow wall to the overhanging nose. Traverse right and attain the deep-cut central diedre. Climb this using the right wall.
- Aschen 15m HVS,4c *
Start in line with the central groove below an overhang at half-height. Climb up to the overhang, move left into the groove and follow it to the top.
- Gull Corner 15m VS,4b
Gain and follow the crack in the upper part of the right side of the wall.
- White Lime 15m D
Start below the crack of Gull Corner. Climb rightward and up a slab, just left of the arête of the buttress. Bear left to finish up the crest. It can be combined with The Razor.
- The Razor 19m D
The ridge above White Lime.
- Strogelen 15m VS,4c
This takes the obvious groove at the left side of the east face, 4m right of the bounding arête. 
- Count Down 15m HVS,5a
Hard for the grade. Climb the short groove capped by an overhang, just right of Strogelen. Step right and finish directly above the overhang.
- Endeavour 15m HVS,4c *
Climb the deep chimney 4m right of Count Down.
High Chimney Gully
Right of Endeavour, at sea level, a narrow cleft leads to the back of High Chimney Gully.
- High Chimney 31m S
Climb the narrow chimney in the back left-hand corner of the gully.
- Old Nic 21m E4,6a *
Start 3m right of High Chimney. Climb cracks to an innocuous looking overlap, which can sometimes be overcome. Finish up the groove above.
- Top Of The Form 21m E4,6a *
Start 4m right of Old Nic below an overhanging groove. Climb the groove, moving out left at the roof to continue up the groove.
- Saratoga 18m E4,6b
Stroll up thin cracks on the left side of the east wall of High Chimney Gully until all hope of progress finishes. Continue for 4m without any holds to the top.
- Tom Cat 15m E3,5c
The slim groove 5m right of Saratoga.
- Ledges 21m M
Climb the right side of the east wall of the gully, just before the bounding arête.
South Cracked Pillar
This is the pillar just to the right of High Chimney Gully, with some deep slanting grooves on its east (right) side.
- Left South Wall 18m VD
The face left of the obvious chimney (Divider).
- Divider 18m M
The obvious central chimney crack.
- Right South Wall 18m S
The face to the right of Divider.
- West Corner 15m D
The wall to the right of Divider, gaining the big corner groove out to the right.
- South East Diedre 15m VS,4c
The obvious rightwards slanting corner groove right of West Corner.
- Chin Up - G. Evans, R. Evans, 08.06.2005
- Crack Up - M Rees, T Rees - 00.00.2000
South West Face
- Lytel - J.Talbot 00.00.1963
- Legge - J.Talbot 00.00.1963
- The Nose - J.Talbot 00.00.1963
- Nervus - J.Talbot 00.00.1963
- Transit - J.Talbot 00.00.1963
- Aschen - J.Talbot 00.00.1963
- Gull Corner - J.Talbot 00.00.1963
- White Lime - J.Talbot 00.00.1963
- The Razor - SUMC 00.00.1968
- Strogelen - J.Talbot, B.Talbot Pre-1973
- Count Down - R.Corbett, J.Talbot 00.00.1964
- Endeavour - R.Corbett, J.Talbot 00.00.1962
High Chimney Gully
- High Chimney - G.Evans, A.Tyas 00.00.1983
- Old Nic - A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.12.1985
- Top Of The Form - A.Sharp, P.Lewis, J.Harwood 29.12.1985
- Saratoga - A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985
- Tom Cat - Left South Wall - A.Sharp, P.Lewis 00.00.1985
- Ledges - J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1965
South Cracked Pillar
- Left South Wall - J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1965
- Divider - J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1965
- Right South Wall - J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1965
- West Corner - J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1965
- South East Diedre - J.Talbot, B.Talbot 00.00.1965
- "...considered strenuous.", in, Penning, T., New Climbs Gower and South East Wales (1985), p.8.