Dinas - Main Slab
From South Wales Climbing Wiki
| Dinas - Main Slab | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport |
| Approach Time | |
| Area | Inland Limestone |
| Sub Area | Dinas Rock |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.759695, -3.577719 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SN 912 079 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.759561, -3.578172 |
| GR Parking Location | SN 911 079 |
| Parking Postcode | SA11 5NU |
| Base Elevation | 89 metres (Other) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South West |
| Aspect | Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Mostly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Seepage | Needs a long dry spell |
| Crags Within 10.0 km | |
|
Cheesy Rider Area, Craig Tyle-Cam, Craig y Nos, Cwmaman Main, Cwmaman West, Dinas - Main Slab, Dinas Main Crag, Inflated Roundhead Area, Kennelgarth Wall, Love Of Ivy Area, Lower Cave Area, Maerdy - Rhondda Fach, Pen Pych, Sheriff Quarry - Maerdy, Space Mountain | |
| BMC RAD | |
| RAD Notice/Restriction | Dinas - Main Slab@BMC RAD |
Contents
PREAMBLE
The main slab and the easy slabs to its right are subject to heavy use by outdoor groups for abseiling and top-roping respectively. The first route starts from the track above the car park on a short wall on the left side of the face. The wall has a good abseil tree which is handy for cleaning the mud and vegetation from the routes prior to an ascent.
THE ROUTES
- Evening Wall l6m VD
Climb a crack in the left-hand side of a short wall. - Flake Wall 39m HS,4a
Loose. Climb a short wall left of the arête to a tree. Continue up via a flake to the top. - Slickenside 41m E2,5c *
Start on the left side of the main face just right of the arête at thin cracks. Climb the cracks to a ledge at 18m. Continue more easily until it steepens, then follow a crack, PR, to the arête and the top. - Churchill 38m E4,6b *
Start at the first groove right of Slickenside. Climb the groove past several PRs to a small hole at 13m, step right and finish up a crack and open groove above. It is also possible to finish up Slickenside. - Frizzy Bits 38m E3,5c *
Start at cracks just right of Churchill. Climb the cracks to a shallow groove/pod and continue up the finger crack. Finish up the dirty groove or step left to join Slickenside. An altenative start comes in from the right. - Angus Anglepoise 38m E3,6a
Takes a thin crack between Frizzy Bits and Jeepers Creepers in its entirety. Start 3m right of Frizzy Bits. - Jeepers Creepers 38m HVS,5a
Climb the obvious groove in the centre of the face. - Sense of Humour 38m E2,5c *
Start at thin cracks 2m right of Jeepers Creepers. Climb the cracks until a difficult traverse left about 2m below a tree can be made into Jeepers Creepers. Finish up Jeepers Creepers or abseil from the tree. - Sense 38m E2,5c *
A more committing direct version of Sense of Humour. Follow Sense of Humour to its traverse, then continue directly up the cracks to the arête passing a tree to the top. - Frisky 45m E2,5c *
A diagonal right to left traverse. Follow Sense of Humour to its junction with Jeepers Creepers. Continue left finishing up Slickenside. - The Coffin 30m VS,4a
Advisable to have a priest and undertaker present’. Climb the wide groove on the right of the face with poor rock and protection. - Porth Crawl 33m E2,5b
Start just right of The Coffin. Climb the wall for 6m then the groove for 6m. Traverse right onto a sloping ledge, then gain a crack which is followed to the top.
First Ascents
- Evening Wall - Unknown Pre-1973
- Flake Wall - Unknown Pre-1973
- Slickenside - P.Leyshon, D.Parsons – Slowcoach Pre-1979
FFA P.Littlejohn, D.Renshaw. 14.06.1979 - Churchill - P.Leyshon, D.Parsons Pre-1973
FFA P.Littlejohn, S.Lewis 31.03.1982 - Frizzy Bits - D.Parsons, P.Leyshon - Helen Pre-1973
FFA A.Sharp, P.Lewis.14.04.1979
A.Sharp, J.Harwood – Alternative Start 29.03.1981 - Angus Anglepoise - P.Donnithorne, T.Meen 26.11.1987.
- Jeepers Creepers - P.Watkin, C.Jones 00.00.1970
- Sense of Humour - P.Josty – Josty Pre-1973
A.Sharp, P.Lewis 16.04.1979 - Sense - S.Lewis, G.Lewis. 00.00.1982
- Frisky - A.Sharp.11.04.1980
- The Coffin - C.Jones, D.Parsons 00.00.1967
- Porth Crawl - A.Sharp, J.Harwood 06.05.1980
