Dinas - Main Slab
| Dinas - Main Slab | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport |
| Approach Time | |
| Area | Inland Limestone |
| Sub Area | Dinas Rock |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.759695, -3.577719 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SN 912 079 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.759561, -3.578172 |
| GR Parking Location | SN 911 079 |
| Parking Postcode | SA11 5NU |
| Base Elevation | 89 metres (Other) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South West |
| Aspect | Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Mostly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Seepage | Needs a long dry spell |
| Crags Within 10.0 km. | |
|
Cheesy Rider Area, Craig Tyle-Cam, Craig y Nos, Cwmaman Main, Cwmaman West, Dinas - Main Slab, Dinas Main Crag, Inflated Roundhead Area, Kennelgarth Wall, Love Of Ivy Area, Lower Cave Area, Maerdy - Rhondda Fach, Pen Pych, Sheriff Quarry, Maerdy, Space Mountain | |
| BMC RAD | |
| RAD Notice/Restriction | Dinas - Main Slab@BMC RAD |
PREAMBLE
The main slab and the easy slabs to its right are subject to heavy use by outdoor groups for abseiling and top-roping respectively. The first route starts from the track above the car park on a short wall on the left side of the face. The wall has a good abseil tree which is handy for cleaning the mud and vegetation from the routes prior to an ascent.
THE ROUTES
1. Evening Wall l6m VD
Climb a crack in the left-hand side of a short wall.
Unknown Pre-1973
2. Flake Wall 39m HS,4a
Loose. Climb a short wall left of the arête to a tree. Continue up via a flake to the top.
Unknown Pre-1973
3. Slickenside 41m E2,5c *
Start on the left side of the main face just right of the arête at thin cracks. Climb the cracks to a ledge at 18m. Continue more easily until it steepens, then follow a crack, PR, to the arête and the top.
P.Leyshon, D.Parsons – Slowcoach Pre-1979
FFA P.Littlejohn, D.Renshaw. 14.06.1979
4. Churchill 38m E4,6b *
Start at the first groove right of Slickenside. Climb the groove past several PRs to a small hole at 13m, step right and finish up a crack and open groove above. It is also possible to finish up Slickenside.
P.Leyshon, D.Parsons Pre-1973
FFA P.Littlejohn, S.Lewis 31.03.1982
5. Frizzy Bits 38m E3,5c *
Start at cracks just right of Churchill. Climb the cracks to a shallow groove/pod and continue up the finger crack. Finish up the dirty groove or step left to join Slickenside. An altenative start comes in from the right.
D.Parsons, P.Leyshon - Helen Pre-1973
FFA A.Sharp, P.Lewis.14.04.1979
A.Sharp, J.Harwood – Alternative Start 29.03.1981
6. Angus Anglepoise 38m E3,6a
Takes a thin crack between Frizzy Bits and Jeepers Creepers in its entirety. Start 3m right of Frizzy Bits.
P.Donnithorne, T.Meen 26.11.1987.
7. Jeepers Creepers 38m HVS,5a
Climb the obvious groove in the centre of the face.
P.Watkin, C.Jones 00.00.1970
8. Sense of Humour 38m E2,5c *
Start at thin cracks 2m right of Jeepers Creepers. Climb the cracks until a difficult traverse left about 2m below a tree can be made into Jeepers Creepers. Finish up Jeepers Creepers or abseil from the tree.
P.Josty – Josty Pre-1973
A.Sharp, P.Lewis 16.04.1979
9. Sense 38m E2,5c *
A more committing direct version of Sense of Humour. Follow Sense of Humour to its traverse, then continue directly up the cracks to the arête passing a tree to the top.
S.Lewis, G.Lewis. 00.00.1982
10. Frisky 45m E2,5c *
A diagonal right to left traverse. Follow Sense of Humour to its junction with Jeepers Creepers. Continue left finishing up Slickenside.
A.Sharp.11.04.1980
11. The Coffin 30m VS,4a
‘Advisable to have a priest and undertaker present’. Climb the wide groove on the right of the face with poor rock and protection.
C.Jones, D.Parsons 00.00.1967
12. Porth Crawl 33m E2,5b
Start just right of The Coffin. Climb the wall for 6m then the groove for 6m. Traverse right onto a sloping ledge, then gain a crack which is followed to the top.
A.Sharp, J.Harwood 06.05.1980
