Lower Cave Area
From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Lower Cave Area | |
| |
Rock Type | Natural Carboniferous Limestone |
---|---|
Climbing Style | Sport |
Approach Time | 10 minutes |
Area | Inland Limestone |
Sub Area | Dinas Rock |
Geodata | |
WGS-84 Location | 51.759543, -3.573455 |
OS Grid Ref. | SN 915 079 |
WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.759561, -3.578172 |
GR Parking Location | SN 911 079 |
Parking Postcode | SA11 5NU |
Base Elevation | 70 metres (Other) |
General Info | |
Faces Direction | North |
Aspect | Never Sunny |
Wind Sheltered | Mostly |
Climbing Type | Normal |
Seepage | Needs a long dry spell |
Crags Within 10.0 km | |
Cheesy Rider Area, Craig Tyle-Cam, Craig y Nos, Cwmaman Main, Cwmaman West, Dinas - Main Slab, Dinas Main Crag, Inflated Roundhead Area, Kennelgarth Wall, Love Of Ivy Area, Lower Cave Area, Maerdy - Rhondda Fach, Pen Pych, Sheriff Quarry - Maerdy, Space Mountain | |
BMC RAD | |
RAD Notice/Restriction | Lower Cave Area@BMC RAD |
- The Dandilion Slab - Fr.7a
Follow Watchmen to its 3rd bolt, then rock up onto the slab. A line of bolts leads to the lower off. - Watchmen - Fr.7b ***
An alternative finish to Rose-Line. From the obvious large spike, finish directly up the vertical crack, or alternatively, move up and left to rock-over onto the arête forming the left edge of the cave. - Rose-Line - Fr.7b+ ***
The left edge of the cave opposite Kennelgarth Wall. Start on the hanging left arête and follow this rightwrds across horizontal breaks to the jam crack line that runs through the roof and up into an attractive hanging groove line. - Sangreal - Fr.7b+ ***
A Link up with a bit of new Climbing. Follow Rose-Line to the lip and instead of pulling over continue traversing right and finish up Rat on a Hot Tin Roof - Imperial Girl - E4,5c *
The obvious jam crack was reached from the left and followed with an excessive expenditure of effort past 2TRs to easier ground. (Un)fortunately the start has fallen down. 20m - Smeagol - A2
Climb the roof crack 1m right of the left edge of the cave. 24m - Smashed Rat - Fr.7c ***
Roof crack between Rose-Line and Rat on a Hot Tin Roof. Finish as for Rose-Line. - Rat on a Hot Tin Roof - Fr.7b ***
Starting at the back of the cave, thrutch up to a no hands rest at the obvious arm of rock. Traverse left across the hanging fin on superb incut holds until a short hanging arête and slab are reached at the lip of the cave. Improvise a way into the tube, up and right, then lean out to clip the chain using a right hand undercut in the tube. The first bolt is intended to be stick clipped and the Q-draw removed after the second Q-draw has been clipped - this avoids excessive rope drag. 21m - Basilica - Fr.7b+ **
A Link up with a bit of new Climbing. Follow Rat on a Hot Tin Roof until established on the hanging arête, Then pull left and finish up Rose-line. Worth clipping all the clips on Rat to prevent rope drag around the hanging block, this will probably make sense once you're up there. - Apathy - A2
Climb the roof crack to the right of Rat on a Hot Tin Roof and finish up the wall above. 24m - Strider - HVS,4c *
A good climb taking the obvious chimney and arête to the right of the cave. Climb the chimney, the slab and a shallow groove to the left of a niche. Step down and right, then move up and right across a steep slab to the arête. Traverse right to finish up a groove. During a recent scaling and de-vegetation of this area by the Forestry Commission, a large glued in abseil station was placed on the nose of the arête. 39m - Strider Direct - HVS,5a
Start at a crack just right of the chimney. Climb this moving left, then right onto the face of the buttress. Continue past small trees to a steep slab, then move right at the arête, which is followed past some loose rock to the top. 35m
CATS WALL
The routes start from a vegetated ledge above and to the right of the cave. The fixed gear will need replacing, this isn't so bad as you will be needing to ab in and clean the routes anyway.
- Cats - E2,5b
Worthwhile. Start from the left end of the ledge. Tiptoe left to reach a TR and good holds. Swing left and climb more easily to the top. 15m - Evita - E3,6a
Technical climbing on good rock. Start below a small corner on the left of the ledge. Climb past a PR at 4m and continue to a ledge. Finish up and right. 13m - Picnic at Hanging Rock - HVS,5a
Start from the middle of the ledge and climb the obvious corner. 13m - The Horror Show - E3,6a
Start from the right end of the ledge. Climb the bulging wall to a good rest below a thin crack, climb the crack, TR, TB. Abseil. 9m
First Ascents
THE LOWER CAVE
- S. Rawlinson 05.06.2011
- S. Rawlinson 00.00.2010
- S. Rawlinson 03.06.2009
- S. Rawlinson 06.06.2009
- T.Penning, J.Harwood 24.07.1984
- P.Thomas Pre-1973
- M. Richards 24/Jun/2009
- A.Sharp, P.Lewis 1pt 00.00.1984 (E5,6a 1pt)
S. Rawlinson 26.03.2009 (Free) - S. Rawlinson 06.06.2009
- P.Thomas, C.Elliot 00.00.1975
- P.Thomas, C.Horsfield 00.00.1970
- Unknown Pre-1978
CATS WALL
- T.Penning, M.Learoyd, A.Sharp 12.05.1985
- T.Penning, M.Learoyd, A.Sharp, P.Lewis 12.05.1985
- M.Learoyd, A.Sharp, P.Lewis, T.Penning 12.05.1985
- A.Sharp, P.Lewis, T.Penning, M.Learoyd 12.05.1985