Kennelgarth Wall

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Kennelgarth Wall
Dinas rock kennelgarth.jpg
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 10 minutes
Area Inland Limestone
Sub Area Dinas Rock
WGS-84 Location 51.760154, -3.574461
OS Grid Ref. SN 914 080
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.759561, -3.578172
GR Parking Location SN 911 079
Parking Postcode SA11 5NU
Base Elevation 75 metres (GPS Survey)
General Info
Faces Direction South
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Crags Within 10.0 km

Cheesy Rider Area, Craig Tyle-Cam, Craig y Nos, Cwmaman Main, Cwmaman West, Dinas - Main Slab, Dinas Main Crag, Inflated Roundhead Area, Kennelgarth Wall, Love Of Ivy Area, Lower Cave Area, Maerdy - Rhondda Fach, Pen Pych, Sheriff Quarry - Maerdy, Space Mountain

RAD Notice/Restriction Kennelgarth Wall@BMC RAD


100m up the path on the left bank is the obvious Kennelgarth Wall, leaning quite steeply at its right-hand end. By and large the routes are short and very sharp, with fingery climbing dominating. The undercut base of the wall is good for bouldering on steep rounded jugs, but please try to avoid bouldering up the start of the routes as they have become very polished in a short space of time. Twin bolt belays are now in place on the ledge above the climbs.

Follow the link to more information on bouldering at Kennelgarth wall - Dinas

The Routes

1. Technitis - Fr.6c

The short left-hand line on the wall, with one very technical move. 8m

2. By Proxy - Fr.7a

The wall to the right of Technitis. 9m

3. Out Come The Freaks - Fr.7a+

A hop, skip and a jump in rapid succession that starts below the arched overlap to the right. 9m

4. Fings Ain’t What They Used To Be - Fr.7b **

A desperate route that would have been more aptly named Fingers Ain’t What They Used To Be. Follow the hairline crack to the right of Out Come The Freaks on good pockets to a left-slanting crack, PR. Make a very trying sequence up and left onto the upper wall, with difficult pulls on slots to finish, 2PRs. 11m

5. Kennelgarth - Fr.7b *

A blind route that is flashed with ease if the hard-to-spot two-finger hold at the top is found. Jump up to the triangular sentry box and climb this to a slot out left. Make a long reach up for a two-finger edge, then fall back right for a jug from whence the BB can be clipped. 12m

6. Eugene's High Point - Fr.7b+

The stapled project right of Kennelgarth. Lower off the final staple. All attempts at gaining the ledge have failed since this date.

There is a project on the wall above Kennelgarth Wall.

First Ascents

1. P.Donnithorne, T.Meen 00.00.1988

2. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 30.03.1997

3. A.Sharp 23.05.1988

4. A.Sharp, P.Thomas, P.Lewis 15.05.1988

5. A.Sharp, P.Lewis 1pt 00.00.1984

G.Ashmore 23.07.1994

6. Eugene Jones 00.00.1995

Lower Cave Area