Inflated Roundhead Area

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Inflated Roundhead Area
Inflated Roundhead Area
Inflated Roundhead Area
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 5 minutes
Area Inland Limestone
Sub Area Dinas Rock
WGS-84 Location 51.759528, -3.576814
OS Grid Ref. SN 912 079
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.759561, -3.578172
GR Parking Location SN 911 079
Parking Postcode SA11 5NU
Base Elevation 87 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction South
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Crags Within 10.0 km

Cheesy Rider Area, Craig Tyle-Cam, Craig y Nos, Cwmaman Main, Cwmaman West, Dinas - Main Slab, Dinas Main Crag, Inflated Roundhead Area, Kennelgarth Wall, Love Of Ivy Area, Lower Cave Area, Maerdy - Rhondda Fach, Pen Pych, Sheriff Quarry - Maerdy, Space Mountain

RAD Notice/Restriction Inflated Roundhead Area@BMC RAD

"Skin Ed", Fr.7c., Dinas Rock,  Climber: Dean Howard, Photo: Simon Rawlinson
Skin Ed Fr.7c. Climber: Dean Howard, Photo: Simon Rawlinson

1. Pinheads - Fr. 6b+

Start from the banking at the left-hand side of the wall and climb the thin wall. Possibly a trad grade would be more appropriate. 11 m.

2. Skin ‘Ed - Fr. 7c *

Before the banking rises steeply rightwards is a sheer and fingery wall. Has shed holds recently. 14 m.

3. The Inflated Roundhead - Fr. 7a+ *

Climb flakes to a high first bolt. From this move up to a jug then make a hard and reachy move to holds beneath the roof. Finish to the right of the roof and a lower off shared with Charlie's Rusks. 15 m.

4. Charlie’s Rusks - Fr. 6b+

The wall to the right of The Inflated Roundhead has blind and awkward climbing. 15 m.

5. The Deflated Dickhead - Fr. 6b *

The wall to the left of the obvious three trunked tree. Start on breccia, cut through the diagonal ramp and bear leftwards to reach the ledge. Balance up into a groove on the right and pull through the capping roof. 15 m.

6. Mr Potato Head - Fr. 6a+ *

Start up the centre of the conglomerate and follow staples to a terrace. Enter the triangular recess, then reach over and pull through the centre of the roof, moving rightwards into a groove. Shares a lower off with Pothead up and left. 17 m.

7. Pothead - Fr. 5+**

Last of the long routes on this section. Start just right of the three trunked tree. Recently, the start of this route has (somewhat unsuprisingly) fallen down, so step in from the tree. 17 m.

Ralph Giles climbing "The Deflated Dickhead", Dinas Rock, South Wales
Ralph Giles climbing 'The Deflated Dickhead'.

8. The Dented Cavalier - E2, 5b

A bag. Start to the right of Pothead at a waterworn scoop. Climb this, then take a wandering line past overlaps to reach trees at the top. Abseil off. 20 m.

9. The Dumbfounded Dunderhead - Fr. 6b

The short arête at the right-hand side of this section. 9 m.

10. Smeghead - Fr. 4 **

An immediate sports classic at this grade and sure to receive many deserved ascents. To the right of The Dumbfounded Dunderhead arête is a rippled scoop leading to a large vertical flake. 10 m.

11. Bonehead - Fr. 5+ *

Left hand side of the arête formed by 'Smeghead'. Shares a lower off with the next route. 10 m.

12. The People's Democratic Republic of Maesteg - Fr. 6a

To the right of Bonehead is another scoop. This route climbs the left side of this scoop with an overhang close to the top. 11 m.

topo for Inflated Roundhead Area, Dinas Rock, Routes 8-11
Routes: No.8 to 11. (Dunderhead to Tithead)


<video type="youtube" id="mcDCvaARz4g?hd=1" width="600" position="left" desc="Red point attempt at Skin Ed"/>

First Ascents

1. G.Gibson, R.Thomas 31.01.1998
2. G.Gibson 30.03.1997
3. M.Crocker, R.Thomas 14.04.1988
4. G.Gibson 05.01.1997
5. R.Thomas 00.00.1997
6. A. Rosier 03.05.2010
7. R. Thomas 09.05.2009
8. T.Penning, J.Harwood 05.10.1982
9. R.Thomas 00.00.1997
10. R. Thomas 03.05.2009
11. R. Thomas 09.05.2009
12. D. Emanuel09.05.2009