Silent Fright Buttress
From South Wales Climbing Wiki
| Silent Fright Buttress | |
 Silent Fright Buttress | |
| Rock Type | Quarried Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Trad |
| Approach Time | 25 minutes |
| Area | Gower |
| Sub Area | Rhossili |
| Local Area | Rhossili Upper Crags |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.565188, -4.303595 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 404 876 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.569301, -4.28840 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 415 880 |
| Parking Postcode | SA3 1PP |
| Base Elevation | 12 metres (Other) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | North West |
| Aspect | Rarely Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Seldomly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Seepage | Quick drying |
| Crags Within 400m | |
|
Black Buttress, Calcite Bay, Carbon Slab, Evening Wall, Fat Lady Wall, Keel Buttress, Kitchen Corner, Lifebuoy Buttress, Mermaid Wall, Platform Area, Poser Buttress, Retribution Wall, Sheepbone Wall, Silent Fright Buttress, Silent Walls, Sinister Sister Zawn, Sinners Walls, Trial Wall, Wedge Wall, Windy Buttress | |
Contents
Tidal Status
non-tidal.
Bolting Policy
No bolting.
Preamble
This is located 90m south-west along the headland from Black Buttress. It begins at an impressive arête, a lower square-cut subsidiary buttress in the centre and ends at a prominent overhanging arête to its right (An Audience of Sheep).
Access
As for Black Buttress but then traverse westwards (left) for 80m.
Descents
The Routes
- Silent Fright 24m E4,6a *
Climb the right side of the impressive arête at the left side of the quarry, PR. Exit leftwards to a worrying finish. - Deafening Calm HVS 4c
Just right (~1m) of the Silent Fright arête is a stepped quarried corner, follow this to a ledge below a small cave of cheesy rock, below a disjointed arête with crystalised sections. Head up towards the arête gaining good crystalised holds. Make moves up the vague arête to good jugs, (sling can be placed over the higher crystallised hold, add a weight) Move up higher to the top of the arête, make moves into the groove just right of the arête. Take care in the top groove. - Summertime Blues 15m HVS,5a
Climb the crack directly up the short steep wall on the right of Silent Fright. - Playground Twist 15m E2,5c *
The crack just right of Summertime Blues. - Executioner's Thrill 15m E4,6b *
A good testpiece up the bold, technical arête right of Playground Twist. - The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman 12m E3,5c
Located on the wall 12m right of Executioner's Thrill. Start from a ledge at 2m, 5m left of faint parallel cracks in a black slabby wall. Follow the tricky slab above, with an awkward move to finish. Poor protection. - Lundy Tilting 15m E2,5c
Climb the left of two cracks 5m right of The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman. Gain a ledge at 3m and follow the crack and arête to the top. - Head Splitter - VS,4c
Climb onto a large ledge. Climb the crack to its top. Many placements if you dig out more of the dirt. Nice looking line. Remains of a stump of metal in it at 1/3 height. - An Audience of Sheep 15m E5,6b
The flying arête is the last route in this sector. Gain a ledge down and left of the arête and then cross rightwards onto a projecting ledge, TR. Hard moves up the arête, PR, to a jug, BR, lead to amazing moves and a long reach for a jug at the apex.BR missing conforming with bolt policy for this section.
First Ascents
- Silent Fright - A.Sharp, P.Lewis 1985
- Deafening Calm - Stuart Llewellyn 19th April 2011
- Summertime Blues - P.Lewis, A.Sharp 1985
- Playground Twist - A.Sharp, P.Lewis 1985
- Executioner's Thrill - A.Sharp, P.Lewis 1985
- The Mad Mad Mad Lundy Axeman - M.Crocker 2nd August 1988
- Lundy Tilting - M.Crocker 2nd August 1987
- Head Splitter - VS,4c - P.Tucker & P.Blackburn Febuary 2018
- An Audience of Sheep - M.Crocker, M.Ward 15th August 1987
Additional Photos
The hanging arête of An Audience of Sheep.
