Wedge Wall

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Wedge Wall
Gwyn Evans at Wedge Wall
Gwyn Evans at Wedge Wall
Rock Type Quarried Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Sport/Trad
Approach Time 20 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Rhossili
Local Area Rhossili Upper Crags
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.566653, -4.300759
OS Grid Ref. SS 406 878
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.569301, -4.28840
GR Parking Location SS 415 880
Parking Postcode SA3 1PP
Base Elevation 10 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction West
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Seldomly
Climbing Type Normal
Seepage Quick drying
Crags Within 400m

Black Buttress, Calcite Bay, Carbon Slab, Castaway Cove, Evening Wall, Fat Lady Wall, Keel Buttress, Kitchen Corner, Lifebuoy Buttress, Mermaid Wall, Platform Area, Poser Buttress, Retribution Wall, Seamen Wall, Sheepbone Wall, Silent Fright Buttress, Silent Walls, Sinister Sister Zawn, Sinners Walls, Trial Wall, Wedge Wall, Windy Buttress


Tidal Status

Non-tidal.

Bolting Policy

Preamble

The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes. Further right (south-west) is a recently developed slab containing a mix of easy trad and sports routes. A popular little crag.

Access

Walk south-west along the narrow private road past the National Trust Shop and coastguard cottages in the direction of Worms Head. Pass through the gate and continue along the gravel road until it takes a sharp left (where the stone wall and cliff edge are closest). This is just past a bench and gate in the stone wall. At this point turn right towards the cliffs and follow the steep and narrow path that passes above Wedge Wall.

Follow small paths left to get to Wedge Wall.

Descents

All lower-offs except for Terrace Wall and some routes at Wedge Wall Right

The Routes

Wedge Wall

The short wall under the Trial Wall descent path has five sport routes.

  1. The Fin End Of The Wedge - Fr. 4+
    Left hand of black wall, awkward start to a belay in the grassy bay. 11 m

  2. Wedgling - Fr. 5
    Ledges to shared belay with next route. 11 m

  3. Wedge-egade Master - Fr. 5+
    Shared belay. 10 m



  4. Wedge Dyu Been? - Fr. 5
    Shared belay with route on right. 10 m

  5. Atomic Wedgie - Fr. 6a+
    Face climbing on crimps. 10 m

Wedge Wall Right - Mossy Slab

Easily spotted from the high track just after Trial and Wedge walls.

Mossy Slab
  1. More Moss - VS,4b
    Short steep crack above belay peg,slab and shared final crack, situ rope advised for exit or clean it yourself.

  2. Moss Tickle Crack - VS,4c *
    Recently cleaned muddy crack, good nut placements.

  3. Moss Bros - HVS,4c
    The crack to the right with a starting bulge.

  4. Checkin Lichen - Fr. 4b*
    The lower arête, long quick draw on bolt over the top to back up belay, easily retrieved.

  5. Towers of Curon - Fr. 6b+
    Gain crack left of upper arête with difficulty.

  6. Whetstone - Fr. 6b+
    The left side of the high arête (The Axe) starting from the ground.

First Ascents

Wedge Wall

  1. The Fin End Of The Wedge -
  2. Wedgling -
  3. Wedge-egade Master -
  4. Wedge Dyu Been? - Tim Hoddy solo 12.07.1987
  5. Atomic Wedgie -

Wedge Wall Right - Mossy Slab

  1. More Moss - R.Thomas & T.Hoddy. 08.10.2017
  2. Moss Tickle Crack - R.Thomas & T.Hoddy. 08.10.2017
  3. Moss Bros - R.Thomas & T.Hoddy. 08.10.2017
  4. Checkin Lichen - R.Thomas & Tim Hoddy 2017
  5. Towers of Curon - R.Thomas 2017
  6. Whetstone - R.Thomas & Tim Hoddy 2017