Retribution Wall

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Retribution Wall
Cragshot retribution wall.jpg
Rock Type Quarried Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Sport/Trad
Approach Time 20 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Rhossili
Local Area Rhossili Upper Crags
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.567155, -4.300356
OS Grid Ref. SS 406 878
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.569301, -4.28840
GR Parking Location SS 415 880
Parking Postcode SA3 1PP
Base Elevation 10 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction North
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Seepage Needs a short dry spell
Crags Within 400m

Black Buttress, Calcite Bay, Carbon Slab, Castaway Cove, Evening Wall, Fat Lady Wall, Keel Buttress, Lifebuoy Buttress, Mermaid Wall, Platform Area, Poser Buttress, Retribution Wall, Seamen Wall, Sheepbone Wall, Shipwreck Cove, Silent Fright Buttress, Silent Walls, Sinister Sister Zawn, Sinners Walls, Trial Wall, Wedge Wall, Windy Buttress


Access

Walk south along the narrow private road past the National Trust Shop and coastguard cottages, in the direction of Worms Head. Pass through the gate and continue along the gravel road until it takes a sharp left, where the stone wall and cliff edge are closest, this is just past a bench and gate in the stone wall. At this point turn right towards the cliffs and follow a path down, above Wedge Wall and leading to Trial Wall. Retribution Wall is just round the corner.

Bolting Policy

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist's permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. No new sports routes allowed.

Preamble

This is the steep quarried wall passed on the descent to sea-level. Many of the routes are old aid routes. It can be sheltered in winter and dries relatively quickly. To the left of the obvious main face, the seaward face has two corners separated by an undercut v-groove.There are some recent sport routes(2011) done by Stu Llewellyn after consultation with the NT. This area is no longer regarded as part of Trial Wall but is to be referred to as Retribution Wall

The Routes

  1. Spades Of Glory - Fr. 5
    The wall and crack system left of the undercut V groove. 16 m

  2. Laughing Spam Fritter - VS, 4b
    Climb the v-groove and ramp to a grass ledge. Traverse rightwards into the cave. Scramble off to the right. 25 m

  3. World Without End - Fr. 6b
    Variation of Pillars of the Earth

  4. Pillars Of The Earth - Fr. 6b
    The pillar of rock.Variation start from the left over roof of V groove(World Without End). 23 m

  5. Somme Mothers - HVS, 5a
    The name is not a misprint as it was climbed on Remembrance Sunday. This climbs the groove just right of Laughing Spam Fritter, joining it to finish.

  6. 24000 Ball Point Pens - HS, 4a
    As for Somme Mothers but up ledges to top crack and shared bolt belay. 24 m

  7. Buckets Of Bubbly - Fr. 5
    Short wall to big ledge then up to crux below belay. 25m

First Ascents

  1. Spades Of Glory - Matt Woodfield 21/08/11
  2. Laughing Spam Fritter - Tony Penning & Peter Creswell 8/11/81
  3. World Without End - Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
  4. Pillars Of The Earth - Stuart Llewellyn 21/08/11
  5. Somme Mothers - Andy Sharp & John Harwood 8/11/81
  6. 24000 Ball Point Pens - Steven Warrington 21/08/11
  7. Buckets Of Bubbly - Steven Warrington 21/08/11