Pobbles Quarries
Pobbles Quarries | |
( Coastguard Training Cliff ) | |
Mark Winder on Pigeon | |
Rock Type | Quarried Carboniferous Limestone |
---|---|
Climbing Style | Sport/Trad |
Approach Time | 20 minutes |
Area | Gower |
Sub Area | Three Cliffs and Pobbles |
Geodata | |
WGS-84 Location | 51.567037, -4.102638 |
OS Grid Ref. | SS 543 874 |
WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.566835, -4.087865 |
GR Parking Location | SS 553 873 |
Parking Postcode | SA3 2DH |
Base Elevation | 42 metres (SRTM Estimation) |
General Info | |
Faces Direction | South |
Aspect | Sunny |
Wind Sheltered | Mostly |
Climbing Type | Family |
Seepage | Quick drying |
Crags Within 600m | |
Anemone Wall, Equal Opportunities Wall, Little Arched Slab, Pobbles Bays, Pobbles Quarries, Ravens Cliff Gully, Shire Combe Buttress, Utopia Slabs, Watch House East, Watch House Slab, West Promontory Corner, White Cove, White Edge | |
Contents
TIDAL STATUS
Non-tidal.
BOLTING POLICY
Retro bolting permissible, new sport routes allowed.
PREAMBLE
The top slab is an 18 metre slab in a disused quarry above Pobbles Beach. A sheltered evening sun trap. Needs cleaning up a bit and the remaining trad routes bolted to make a pleasant beginners' crag. The other two quarries are smaller and are of little interest. The two trad routes have very loose top-outs.
The climbs marked with a dagger ( ) are not recommended in their current state.
A pleasant diversion if you are waiting for the tide at Three Cliffs.
ACCESS
Approach is quickest from Southgate NT Car Park. Take the track from the car park towards Three Cliffs. After about 800 metres, keep within sight of the cliff edge until you see a prominent short metal pole near the edge. At this point, the cliff edge turns northwards. Follow the cliff edge for a short way, until you see, the south-facing slab of the main quarry. Easily seen from the cliff edge.
Descend fairly steeply down the east side of the quarry passing to the right of a pinnacle and then descend a little and then traverse (contour) around rightwards to the quarry.
DESCENTS
The normal access route is the easiest way back down.
THE ROUTES
Top Quarry
- Wind Her Up S 19m. †
More of a Darwinian experiment than a route. A spiffing adventure unless you snap a hold, old school fixed gear (bootlace threads) for the nostalgic. Climb the hollow slab to gain the even looser top calcite sheet, tallyho! - Winder Down H.V.Diff 18m †
A very slight improvement on the previous climb. Climb the unprotected gray runnel (2m L of Pigeon) to join the previous route at the "floating calcite sheet". Go ahead and retrobolt me and the previous route.. - Pigeon 20m S
Climb onto a hollow flake and then, after following the flake upwards and slightly leftwards, take a direct line to the top. - Roy Rogered 17m HS
Start just below a small v-shaped ledge at 2 metres. Head straight for the top. - Lady-flavoured Slug Trail Fr. 4
Slab - Octo-Scolanoo Fr. 5
Slab. Interesting start
Middle Quarry
Broken slab. Little of interest.
Bottom Quarry
Small slab.
Additional Photos
First Ascents
Top Quarry
- Wind Her Up - R.Thomas - Sept 2012
- Winder Down - R.Thomas - Sept 2012
- Pigeon - M. Winder, J.Hoskins, A. N. Other 16-05-12
- Roy Rogered - M. Winder, T.Boothby 22-08-12
- Lady-flavoured Slug Trail - D. Emanuel 08-08-12
- Octo-Scolanoo - D. Emanuel 08-08-12