Utopia Slabs
| Utopia Slabs | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Natural Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport |
| Approach Time | 25 minutes |
| Area | Gower |
| Sub Area | Shire Combe to Southgate |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.565793, -4.099682 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 545 873 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.566835, -4.087865 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 553 873 |
| Parking Postcode | SA3 2DH |
| Base Elevation | 10 metres (Other) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South West |
| Aspect | Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Mostly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Seepage | Never |
| Crags Within 400m | |
|
Anemone Wall, Pobbles Quarries, Ravens Cliff Gully, Shire Combe Buttress, Utopia Slabs, Watch House East, Watch House Slab, West Promontory Corner, White Cove, White Edge | |
| Utopia Slabs | |
| Sport Grades | |
| <= 6a+ | 10 |
| 6b - 6c+ | 3 |
| 7a - 7b | 0 |
| >= 7b+ | 0 |
PREAMBLE
A slabby winter paradise, perfect for those operating in the 4 to 6a range. Non tidal, sheltered, full sun all day and very little seepage. Most of the routes follow nicely featured slabs, but there are a few steep starts.
ACCESS
The crag sits on a broad platform, well above sea level, between Equal Opportunities cave and Shire Combe. The best approach is as for Equal Opportunities. Walk west from the Southgate NT car park and near the end of the road look to the left and you will see the profile of White Edge, an arete with a jutting block near the top. The path starts there. Descend to the base of White Edge and follow a narrow ledge westwards until the rock gives way to grass. Follow the bedrock down, diagonally back on yourself, until there is a clear ledge running westwards. Follow that to the graffiti-covered bouldering wall of Equal Opportunities (Ravenscliff Cave). Utopia is just around the corner at the same level. Probably not suitable for children, but old people seem to manage.
THE ROUTES
- Julie's Delight - Fr.4*
A nicely featured slab. Delightful indeed. - Fools Rush In - Fr.4+*
Break right to follow the lovely big pockets. - Tom Foolery - Fr.5*
Start in the groove but step left onto the ledge and aim for the long crack line. Nearer 6a if you stick rigidly to the crack. - Ejit - Fr.4
Bridge up the groove and swing left on the big flake. Take care with the rock at the top. - Meteor Storm - Fr.6a
Climb the steep groove left of the corner until there is a bolt out left then swing onto the arête. Do not continue up the horribly loose corner! The rain of rocks has eased, but take care. - Utopia - Fr.5**
The beautiful corner. - Michelinia - Fr.5
A tricky pull through the overhang leads to pleasant slab climbing and the Utopia rings. Named for the spectacular fossil coral near the top. - Xanadu - Fr.5+
Starts as for Michelinia but move right along the lip of the overhang to good holds at the first arête. Continue up the slab. - Xanadont - Fr.6a/6b+/6c?
The arête to the right of Xanadu can be accessed using the same start and traversing across the lip (6a), by a steep and crimpy direct start coming from the left (6b+) or a really crimpy and really steep direct start coming from the right (6c?). - Elysium - Fr.6b+
A direct line through the steepest part of the arch. No sneaking off to either side at this grade. - Erewhon - Fr.5+
A tricky move to gain the jugs then a few steep pulls to gain the pleasant slab.
First Ascents
- Julie's Delight - Julie and Lee Burrows 2023
- Fools Rush In - Lee and Julie Burrows 2023
- Tom Foolery - John Bullock and Danny McCarroll 2023
- Ejit - Danny McCarroll and John Bullock 2023
- Meteor Storm - Danny McCarroll and Lee Burrows 2023
- Utopia - John Bullock and Danny McCarroll 2023
- Michelinia - Danny McCarroll and John Bullock 2023
- Xanadu - John Bullock and Danny McCarroll 2023
- Xanadont - 6a and 6b+ starts Danny McCarroll and John Bullock 2023, Right direct start Adam Sykes and $$ who declared it to be 'just a couple of crimps, no more than 6b'. Looks hard to me!
- Elysium - Danny McCarroll and John Bullock 2023
- Erewhon - Danny McCarroll and John Bullock 2023
ADDITIONAL PHOTOS
Old and grey topo.
The first weekend after publicising the new crag.
Climber on Meteor Storm.
Climber on Michelenia.
