Anemone Wall

Anemone Wall
( Great Slab )
Rock Type	Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style	Trad
Approach Time	20 minutes
Area	Gower
Sub Area	Shire Combe to Southgate
Geodata
WGS-84 Location	51.565471, -4.101229
OS Grid Ref.	SS 544 872
WGS-84 Parking Location	51.566835, -4.087865
GR Parking Location	SS 553873
Parking Postcode	SA3 2DH
Base Elevation	3 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction	South
Aspect	Sunny
Wind Sheltered	Mostly
Climbing Type	Normal
Seepage	Quick drying
Tidal
Before/After Low Tide	2.0 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 400m
Anemone Wall, Pobbles Quarries, Ravens Cliff Gully, Shire Combe Buttress, Utopia Slabs, Watch House Slab, White Cove, White Edge

TIDAL STATUS

2 Hours either side of low tide.

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting

PREAMBLE

This is the wall—more accurately a slab—100m to the east of the headland.

ACCESS

Access is down the easy slab to the east.

DESCENTS

Either reverse one of the easier climbs on the far right (east) of the wall or scramble back down the west side.

THE ROUTES

Anemone Wall

1. Great Chimney - VS,4b
   Start at the left end of the ledge at the foot of the slab. Gain the chimney from the rib bounding the slab on the leftand climb it, taking care with blocks at the top. 23m.
   
   
2. Honesty - HVS,4c
   Start as for Great Chimney then step onto the slab at a good hold. Climb the slab just to the right of the right edgeof the chimney, with some unnerving moves. 18m
   
   
3. Pickpocket - HVS,5b
   An artificial route directly up the slab between Great Chimney and Anemone Wall. Using the crack is forbidden. 21m.
   
   
4. Anemone Wall - VS,4c **
   Start where the crevasse closes and traverse left to the obvious diagonal crack. When it peters out at a pocket, climb direct. 21m.
   
   
5. Alternate - S
   Follow discontinuous cracks and water-worn grooves right of Anemone Wall directly to the top.
   
   The more broken slab to the right of Alternate gives a number of easier climbs. 18m.
   
   
6. Respite - VD
   Start 1m right of Alternate and climb the slab direct. 18m.
   
   
7. Wide Crack - D
   The wide crack to the right of Respite. 13m.
   
   
8. Girdle Traverse - HS,4c
   Traverse the slab from left to right along the obvious thin break. 22m.
   
   

FIRST ASCENTS

1. Great Chimney - R.Owens, D.Jones 00.00.1959
2. Honesty - J.Kerry, A.Randall 00.00.1970
3. Pickpocket - J.Kerry, A.T.Randall 00.00.1970
4. Anemone Wall - J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
5. Alternate - J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
6. Respite - J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
7. Wide Crack - J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
8. Girdle Traverse - J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55