Anemone Wall

From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
Anemone Wall
( Great Slab )
Anemone wall-1920x.jpg
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 20 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Shire Combe to Southgate
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.565471, -4.101229
OS Grid Ref. SS 544 872
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.566835, -4.087865
GR Parking Location SS 553873
Parking Postcode SA3 2DH
Base Elevation 3 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction South
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Seepage Quick drying
Tidal
Before/After Low Tide 2.0 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 600m

Anemone Wall, Equal Opportunities Wall, Little Arched Slab, Pobbles Bays, Pobbles Quarries, Ravens Cliff Gully, Shire Combe Buttress, Utopia Slabs, Watch House East, Watch House Slab, West Promontory Corner, White Cove, White Edge



TIDAL STATUS

2 Hours either side of low tide.

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting

PREAMBLE

This is the wall—more accurately a slab[1]—100m to the east of the headland.

ACCESS

Access is down the easy slab to the east.

DESCENTS

Either reverse one of the easier climbs on the far right (east) of the wall or scramble back down the west side.

THE ROUTES

  1. Great Chimney - VS,4b
    Start at the left end of the ledge at the foot of the slab. Gain the chimney from the rib bounding the slab on the leftand climb it, taking care with blocks at the top. 23m.

  2. Honesty - HVS,4c
    Start as for Great Chimney then step onto the slab at a good hold. Climb the slab just to the right of the right edgeof the chimney, with some unnerving moves. 18m

  3. Pickpocket - HVS,5b
    An artificial route directly up the slab between Great Chimney and Anemone Wall. Using the crack is forbidden. 21m.

  4. Anemone Wall - VS,4c **
    Start where the crevasse closes and traverse left to the obvious diagonal crack. When it peters out at a pocket, climb direct. 21m.

  5. Alternate - S
    Follow discontinuous cracks and water-worn grooves right of Anemone Wall directly to the top.

    The more broken slab to the right of Alternate gives a number of easier climbs. 18m.

  6. Respite - VD
    Start 1m right of Alternate and climb the slab direct. 18m.

  7. Wide Crack - D
    The wide crack to the right of Respite. 13m.

  8. Girdle Traverse - HS,4c
    Traverse the slab from left to right along the obvious thin break. 22m.

Additional Photos

FIRST ASCENTS

  1. Great Chimney - R.Owens, D.Jones 00.00.1959
  2. Honesty - J.Kerry, A.Randall 00.00.1970
  3. Pickpocket - J.Kerry, A.T.Randall 00.00.1970
  4. Anemone Wall - J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
  5. Alternate - J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
  6. Respite - J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
  7. Wide Crack - J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55
  8. Girdle Traverse - J.Brailsford, St.AMRT 1954/55

Notes

  1. Known as, "Great Slab" in Talbot (1970) p. 40, "The Slab" in Richardson (1991) p.64 and "Anemone Wall Area" in Ashmore & Thomas (2003) p.173