White Cove

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White Cove
Cragshot white cove.jpg
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 20 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Shire Combe to Southgate
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.565481, -4.100271
OS Grid Ref. SS 545 872
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.566835, -4.087865
GR Parking Location SS 553873
Parking Postcode SA3 2DH
Base Elevation 3 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction South
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Seepage
Tidal
Before/After Low Tide 1.5 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 400m

Anemone Wall, Pobbles Quarries, Ravens Cliff Gully, Shire Combe Buttress, Watch House Slab, West Promontory Corner, White Cove, White Edge


TIDAL STATUS

1½ hours either side of low water

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting.

ACCESS

From Shire Combe and Anemone Wall, a series of rocky platforms run eastward above the high tide level towards the prominent ridge of White Edge. Below the rocky platforms are a series of tidal zawns, which possess a number of good easy routes. Although it may be more efficient to approach these via the descent for White Edge, they are described as approached from Shire Combe, to aid identification on the first visit.

Continuing eastward (right) from Anemone Wall for 100m is a prominent inlet, characterised by an undercut pillar at the landward end. (If coming from the White Edge approach, this is the inlet just beyond the second gully to the left of Ravenscliff).

THE ROUTES

The crag provides some of the better easy climbing on Gower. Those planning to protect their routes should carry a good selection of slings for spike runners. On the west (left looking landward) wall is a rock scar, the remains of White Slab D (J.Talbot 1962). Just to the right is a mustard-coloured patch of lichen.

  1. Centre - D
    The centre of the left wall of the zawn, passing the mustard coloured lichen just to its left. 12m.

  2. Right Wall - M
    The wall 5m left of the pillar, passing the prominent overlap on its left. 12m.

  3. Abraham’s Route - VS,4c
    From the base of the crag, climb directly up to and through the centre of the overhang. A one-move wonder 12m.

  4. Ramp - D
    Ramble anywhere up the wall left of the pillar to gain a ramp, then follow the vague right-trending groove that bounds the right-hand side of the overlap. 14m.

  5. Left Pillar Crack - S,4c
    As for Pillar Direct to start, then step left to climb the obvious wide groove. 12m.

  6. Pillar Direct - S,4c *
    May be easier if the level of the beach is higher. The front of the pillar, gained by a superb boulder problem start. 12m.

  7. Right Pillar Crack - M
    The right-hand crack, gained by wandering in up easy slabs out right. There is a boulder problem direct start, Jam Today, Jam Tommorrow 4b (G.Ashmore 09.01.1999) 12m.

  8. Eve - D *
    The narrow runnel right of the corner gives pleasant climbing. Where the runnel runs out, trend left to finish. 14m.

  9. He Too - D
    Climb the rib to the roof, pull straight through this and up the slab to finish. 14m.

  10. Zig Zag - M
    A slight variant, connecting Wall And Groove to the top of Eve, traversing under the overhang. 15m.

  11. Wall And Groove - M
    As for Groove and Corner, until a slab opens out on the left wall. Step left to finish up the centre of the slab. The arête of the slab can be gained from directly below and followed on its left – Jones Route S,4a (J.White 14.04.1982). 15m.

  12. Groove And Corner - M *
    The obvious crack and angled groove in the right wall of the inlet. 15m.

  13. White Slab - D *
    The centre of the white slab right of Groove And Corner. 15m.

First Ascents

  1. Centre - Jeremy Talbot 1962
  2. Right Wall - Jeremy Talbot 1962
  3. Abraham’s Route - J.White 14th April 1982
  4. Ramp - Jeremy Talbot 1962
  5. Left Pillar Crack- Jeremy Talbot 1962
  6. Pillar Direct - Jeremy Talbot 1962
  7. Right Pillar Crack - Jeremy Talbot 1962
  8. Eve - Jeremy Talbot 1962
  9. He Too - Jacob Isaac Nov 2023
  10. Zig Zag - Jeremy Talbot 1962
  11. Wall And Groove - Jeremy Talbot 1962
  12. Groove And Corner - Jeremy Talbot 1962
  13. White Slab - Jeremy Talbot 1962