Overton Cliff
| Overton Cliff | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Natural Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Trad |
| Approach Time | 15 minutes |
| Area | Gower |
| Sub Area | Thurba to Overton |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.5418940, -4.2287817 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 455 849 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.54486, -4.220247 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 446 871 |
| Parking Postcode | SA3 1NR |
| Base Elevation | 25 metres (Other) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South West |
| Aspect | Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Seldomly |
| Climbing Type | Serious |
| Seepage | Quick drying |
| Crags Within 600m | |
|
Black Streak Crag, Boiler Slab, Crag Y, Engine Room Slab, Longhole Cave Buttress, Longhole Cliff, Overton Cliff | |
Contents
PREAMBLE
This is a very loose cliff. Hence the Serious rating. Be warned!
TIDAL STATUS
Non-tidal.
BOLTING POLICY
No bolting.
ACCESS
From Overton village green, follow the road south-westward to a large gate where the road becomes a track (bridal path). Follow the track westwards for about a half-mile and then go through a metal kissing-gate. (12 minutes).
Follow the path downwards for about 90m and then turn left at a signpost. Take this path down towards the sea for about 380 metres where you will join the lower coast path. From Here you will see Overton Cliff to the east.
DESCENTS
Walk down the path on the east (right) side of the crag.
The ROUTES
The cliff is to the east of the mouth of the valley and at first sight is impressive, but unfortunately the routes start from a grass ledge at the level of the cave on the south face, reducing the length to 14m. All of the routes are very loose.
N.B. The routes on this crag (especially the easier ones on the left), have a lot of unstable rock and there have been at least two serious accidents here as a result of loose blocks so proceed very cautiously.
- Bush Bay 'A' - D
Start from the brambly bay on the west end of the crag. Climb up and left under the overhang to step across into a groove, with a choice of finishes, the easiest being on the left. 14m. - Bush Baby - S
Start in the brambly bay. Climb the arête on its right to the overhang, move right onto the face to a detached block and climb the shallow groove on the right of this on poor rock. 14m. - South West Corner - D
This takes the corner left of the centre of the crag. 14m. - West Wall - S
A vague line up the right wall of the corner. 14m. - Black Widow - HVS,5a
This climbs the lethal groove on the upper face, right of West Wall. 14m. - One Ton Plus - E3,5c *
Start 6m left of the cave. Climb a vague crack to finger pockets, TR and continue direct with a tricky move (large Friend). Trend right through the bulge to a huge hold over the lip and pull up easily to the top. 13m. - Featherweight - E4,6a
Start 4m left of the cave. Reach a shallow rectangular recess and climb the face above (old BR stub on the right). Pull up to a thin flake (thin tape possible), then forcefully over the bulge to finish directly over a small roof. 13m. - South Wall - E1,5b *
This follows the line of old bolts and drilled pegs 5m left of the cave. It can be started directly to the bolt stub, or reached by traversing in from the base of the cave. 14m. - Air Jordan - E1,5b
Climb straight up out of the cave and climb the wall directly above, with a good steep move. 14m. - Cave Crack - VS,4b
This climbs the rib at the right of the cave, over a small overhang and up the groove to the top. 14m.
FIRST ASCENTS
- Bush Baby 'A' - C.Shorrock, J.Robinson 15.02.97
- Bush Baby - J.Robinson, C.Shorrock 15.02.1997
- South West Corner - A.Osborne, Brian Taylor 1952
- West Wall - J.Talbot 1969
- Black Widow - T.Moon, C.Maybury 1973
- One Ton Plus - M.Crocker 28.12.1998
- Featherweight - M.Crocker 28.12.1998
- South Wall - J.Talbot 1968
FFA G.Evans, G.Richardson 01.01.1978 - Air Jordan - M.Jordan, G.Ashmore 18.02.2001
- Cave Crack - T.Moon, C.Maybury 1973
Additional Photos
Chris on South Wall
Overton Cliff - east side.
