Overton Cliff

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Overton Cliff
Overton cliff2.jpg
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 15 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Thurba to Overton
WGS-84 Location 51.5418940, -4.2287817
OS Grid Ref. SS 455 849
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.54486, -4.220247
GR Parking Location SS 446 871
Parking Postcode SA3 1NR
Base Elevation 25 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction South West
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Seldomly
Climbing Type Serious
Seepage Quick drying
Crags Within 400m

Black Streak Crag, Longhole Cliff, Overton Cliff


This is a very loose cliff. Hence the Serious rating. Be warned!




No bolting.


From Overton village green, follow the road south-westward to a large gate where the road becomes a track (bridal path). Follow the track westwards for about a half-mile and then go through a metal kissing-gate. (12 minutes).

Follow the path downwards for about 90m and then turn left at a signpost. Take this path down towards the sea for about 380 metres where you will join the lower coast path. From Here you will see Overton Cliff to the east.


Walk down the path on the east (right) side of the crag.


The cliff is to the east of the mouth of the valley and at first sight is impressive, but unfortunately the routes start from a grass ledge at the level of the cave on the south face, reducing the length to 14m. All of the routes are very loose.

N.B. The routes on this crag (especially the easier ones on the left), have a lot of unstable rock and there have been at least two serious accidents here as a result of loose blocks so proceed very cautiously.

  1. Bush Bay 'A' - D
    Start from the brambly bay on the west end of the crag. Climb up and left under the overhang to step across into a groove, with a choice of finishes, the easiest being on the left. 14m.

  2. Bush Baby - S
    Start in the brambly bay. Climb the arête on its right to the overhang, move right onto the face to a detached block and climb the shallow groove on the right of this on poor rock. 14m.

  3. South West Corner - D
    This takes the corner left of the centre of the crag. 14m.

  4. West Wall - S
    A vague line up the right wall of the corner. 14m.

  5. Black Widow - HVS,5a
    This climbs the lethal groove on the upper face, right of West Wall. 14m.

  6. One Ton Plus - E3,5c *
    Start 6m left of the cave. Climb a vague crack to finger pockets, TR and continue direct with a tricky move (large Friend). Trend right through the bulge to a huge hold over the lip and pull up easily to the top. 13m.

  7. Featherweight - E4,6a
    Start 4m left of the cave. Reach a shallow rectangular recess and climb the face above (old BR stub on the right). Pull up to a thin flake (thin tape possible), then forcefully over the bulge to finish directly over a small roof. 13m.

  8. South Wall - E1,5b *
    This follows the line of old bolts and drilled pegs 5m left of the cave. It can be started directly to the bolt stub, or reached by traversing in from the base of the cave. 14m.

  9. Air Jordan - E1,5b
    Climb straight up out of the cave and climb the wall directly above, with a good steep move. 14m.

  10. Cave Crack - VS,4b
    This climbs the rib at the right of the cave, over a small overhang and up the groove to the top. 14m.


  1. Bush Baby 'A' - C.Shorrock, J.Robinson 15.02.97
  2. Bush Baby - J.Robinson, C.Shorrock 15.02.1997
  3. South West Corner - A.Osborne, Brian Taylor 1952
  4. West Wall - J.Talbot 1969
  5. Black Widow - T.Moon, C.Maybury 1973
  6. One Ton Plus - M.Crocker 28.12.1998
  7. Featherweight - M.Crocker 28.12.1998
  8. South Wall - J.Talbot 1968
    FFA G.Evans, G.Richardson 01.01.1978
  9. Air Jordan - M.Jordan, G.Ashmore 18.02.2001
  10. Cave Crack - T.Moon, C.Maybury 1973

Additional Photos