Culver Hole
From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Culver Hole | |
| |
Rock Type | Natural Carboniferous Limestone |
---|---|
Climbing Style | Trad |
Approach Time | 25 minutes |
Area | Gower |
Sub Area | Thurba to Overton |
Local Area | Port Eynon |
Geodata | |
WGS-84 Location | 51.53930, -4.21423 |
OS Grid Ref. | SS 465 845 |
WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.544533, -4.211459 |
GR Parking Location | SS 467 851 |
Parking Postcode | SA3 1NN |
Base Elevation | 0 metres (Other) |
General Info | |
Faces Direction | East |
Aspect | |
Wind Sheltered | Mostly |
Climbing Type | Serious |
Seepage | Quick drying |
Tidal | |
Before/After Low Tide | 2.5 hours (See Note) |
Crags Within 600m | |
TIDAL STATUS
2½ hours either side of low water.
BOLTING POLICY
No bolting. However, reports have reached us (05/04/2023) that bolting has occurred in the vicinity.
ACCESS
DESCENTS
Abseil or walk off to the left (west).
THE ROUTES
Culver Hole contains a dovecote (culver is an old word for dove). This is worth exploring which is more than can be said for the routes, which are pokey to say the least. A hanging rope is required for escape at the top.
- Thick Wrist - E3,5c
The grey groove in the left side of the face. Follow the rightward-slanting crack in the lower wall, then left to an in situ PR below the groove, which is loose and not recommended. 12m. - New Body Buzz - E5,6a
Intricate and strenuous climbing on pockets. Start below the shallow recess at the centre of the face. From the right side of the recess climb directly up to a projecting jug at 7m. Follow pockets up the wall above, TR to a good hold and a big rock placement. Move right and enter a round cave. Exit steeply leftwards TR, on pockets. Finish up a solid rib on the left. 22m - Spinal (Con)Fusion - E4,6a
Start left of the cave and climb into a pocketed recess TRs. Take the final bulge via a ragged pocket. 22m.
FIRST ASCENTS
- Thick Wrist - M.Crocker, R.Thomas 23.10.1993
- New Body Buzz - M.Crocker 10.10.1993
- Spinal (Con)Fusion - M.Crocker, R.Thomas 23.10.1993