Culver Hole

From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
Culver Hole
Culver hole.jpg
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 25 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Thurba to Overton
Local Area Port Eynon
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.53930, -4.21423
OS Grid Ref. SS 465 845
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.544533, -4.211459
GR Parking Location SS 467 851
Parking Postcode SA3 1NN
Base Elevation 0 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction East
Aspect
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Serious
Seepage Quick drying
Tidal
Before/After Low Tide 2.5 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 600m

Culver Hole, Port Eynon Cave, Port Eynon Cave 2


TIDAL STATUS

2½ hours either side of low water.

BOLTING POLICY

No bolting. However, reports have reached us (05/04/2023) that bolting has occurred in the vicinity.

ACCESS

DESCENTS

Abseil or walk off to the left (west).

THE ROUTES

Culver Hole contains a dovecote (culver is an old word for dove). This is worth exploring which is more than can be said for the routes, which are pokey to say the least. A hanging rope is required for escape at the top.

  1. Thick Wrist - E3,5c

    The grey groove in the left side of the face. Follow the rightward-slanting crack in the lower wall, then left to an in situ PR below the groove, which is loose and not recommended. 12m.

  2. New Body Buzz - E5,6a
    Intricate and strenuous climbing on pockets. Start below the shallow recess at the centre of the face. From the right side of the recess climb directly up to a projecting jug at 7m. Follow pockets up the wall above, TR to a good hold and a big rock placement. Move right and enter a round cave. Exit steeply leftwards TR, on pockets. Finish up a solid rib on the left. 22m

  3. Spinal (Con)Fusion - E4,6a
    Start left of the cave and climb into a pocketed recess TRs. Take the final bulge via a ragged pocket. 22m.

FIRST ASCENTS

  1. Thick Wrist - M.Crocker, R.Thomas 23.10.1993
  2. New Body Buzz - M.Crocker 10.10.1993
  3. Spinal (Con)Fusion - M.Crocker, R.Thomas 23.10.1993