Port Eynon Cave
From South Wales Climbing Wiki
| Port Eynon Cave | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Natural Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Trad/Sport |
| Approach Time | 20 minutes |
| Area | Gower |
| Sub Area | Thurba to Overton |
| Local Area | Port Eynon |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.537225, -4.210449 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 467 843 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.544533, -4.211459 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 467 851 |
| Parking Postcode | SA3 1NN |
| Base Elevation | 0 metres (Other) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | Various |
| Aspect | Rarely Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Mostly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Seepage | Quick drying |
| Tidal | |
| Before/After Low Tide | 2.5 hours (See Note) |
| Crags Within 600m | |
TIDAL STATUS
1½ hours either side of low water.
BOLTING POLICY
After agreement with NT and discussion at BMC area meeting bolting permissible in this and nearby tidal caves.(2013)
ACCESS
Take the narrow coastal path that runs from Port Eynon's Salt House towards Port Eynon Point. About 40 yards after the NT Port Eynon Point sign, head down onto the rocks and scramble around (westwards) to the 'two caves. When approaching like this from the east, the cave currently bolted is the second of the two, some 35 yards on from the first.
DESCENTS
Scramble in from the east of the crag.
THE ROUTES
- Port Eynon Cave Climb - Hard Severe, 4b
Start at the back of the cave and climb the right wall to a black hollow. Go up and out right then traverse delicately to a tiny ledge. Move up and across right to where the overhang ceases.Exit to a good ledge and an easy wall. - Humidor - Fr. 6c+
Over the roof via two large pockets and a trying final move. Shared belay up high on left. - Condenser - Fr. 6b+
Gain and climb the roof,shared belay. - Guillible Troubles - Fr. 6a
Gain and climb the right side of the overhang then easily up left to same shared belay.
On the wall to the right are a number of easier trad routes - Swift Of Foot - V.Diff
Big holds to belay on a prominent pillar then walk off left(west) or prolong the adventure by wombling up the rubble above to the path. - Pocket Bible - V.Diff
Start from the pebbles climb the chimney/crack to belay/continue as previous. - Senile Immortals - V.Diff
Start from the recess just right.One for lovers of big jugs.Walk of left if you've got any sense. - The Proper Way To Crack Eggs - V.Diff
The recess/chimney just right,lovely juggly
FIRST ASCENTS
- Port Eynon Cave Climb - D.Lillicrap 1957
- Humidor - G.Ashmore R.Thomas 28.09.2013
- Condenser - G.Ashmore R.Thomas Aug 2013
- Guillible Troubles - R.Thomas G.Ashmore Aug 2013
- Swift Of Foot - R.Thomas (solo) Aug 2013
- Pocket Bible - R.Thomas (solo) Aug 2013
- Senile Immortals - R.Thomas Seept 2013
- The Proper Way To Crack Eggs - R.Thomas 2013
