Gilwern Hill - Crag X

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Gilwern Hill - Crag X
Paul Bowen on Glucosamine & Chondritin.
Paul Bowen on Glucosamine & Chondritin.
Rock Type Quarried Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time
Area Inland Limestone
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.812906, -3.106964
OS Grid Ref. SO 237 132
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation 301 metres (SRTM Estimation)
General Info
Faces Direction
Aspect
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type
Seepage
Crags Within 10.0 km

Abertysswg, Buckland Hill, Craig Y Castell, Craig Y Castell Western Extension, Cwm, Eastern Edge, Gilwern East, Gilwern Hill - Crag X, Gimp Cliff, Llangattock, Llangynidr Quarry, The Lonely Shepherd



Preamble

31 routes up to 10/12mts in height. Many of the routes are on flowstone and can be friable, however this has settled down recently.

The crag is split into 4 sections, two small walls either side of the Main Wall and separated by 200m and the Lower walls below the road.

Because of its altitude it can be cold, but facing west gets any afternoon sun that's going. A good afternoon evening crag in fine weather.

Access

From Blaenavon take B4246 for approx' 1 mile, turn left at keepers pond towards Lamb and Fox, pass the pub and continue for approx' 1 mile until there is a very steep drop into an old quarry. You can park just before the steep drop or there is room for 1 car just after. A small path leads up from the road, follow this trending left until you come to the first wall on your right (11 routes here) continue along the path for 250mts to the main wall.

Descent

The Routes

Pear Wall

  1. Wayne fell in do do - Fr.4
  2. Jetison Bilge - Fr.5
  3. Fruitless Pair - Fr.6b+
  4. La Poire - Fr.6b
  5. Posh and Becs - Fr.6c
  6. Apples and Pears - Fr.6a

Main Wall

  1. Jug Fest - Fr.4+ *
    A Jug fest up the isolated wall on the left! 25m.

  2. Destination Brynmawr - Fr.6a
    The angled groove with an awkward finish.

  3. Tea Leaves - Fr.6b **
  4. Battle of the Bulge - Fr.6c **
  5. Flow Job - Fr.6b **
  6. Christian Broke My Flake - Fr.6a+ **
  7. Diagnosis Made Easy - Fr.6c+ **
  8. Pwll Du Crack - Fr.5+
  9. Go With the Flow - Fr.6a
  10. There's No Business Like Flow Business - Fr.5+

Right Hand Side

  1. Whatever Floats your Boat - Fr.5+
  2. A Paddock Full of Ponies - Fr.5
  3. Crack Me Up - Fr.4+
  4. All Aboard My Dingy - Fr.4

The Hindu Kush Area

  1. Cod liver oil - Fr.6b *
  2. Glucosamine & Chondroitin - Fr.6c **
  3. Fuelled by Pies - Fr.7a+ *
  4. Johnny Takes a Tumble - Fr.6a *
  5. Snap Crackle n Pop - Fr.6a
  6. White Noise - Fr.5
  7. Back, Crack and Sack - Fr.5 *
  8. Take me up the Hindu Kush - Fr.5+
  9. To Dai or not to Dai - Fr.5+
  10. Brittle Biscuit - Fr.4+ *
  11. Under a blood red sky - Fr.5+ *

GIlwern Lower

Extensive quarry under the crash barriers below the road. Looks like it was used for fly tipping so not the most pleasant surroundings. 30+ routes however. Small parking for 2, 3 cars at end of barriers then easy path down.

  1. Coming Unstuck - Fr. 6b
  2. I'm Stuck,I'm Off - Fr. 6b
  3. Stig of the Dump - Fr. 6a
  4. Stickle Brick - Fr. 5
  5. Stick it up 'em - Fr. 6a
  6. Stick it to 'em - Fr. 6a+
  7. Evostick - Fr. 4
  8. Rubber Blubber - Fr. 6c
  9. Tyre and Brimstone - Fr. 6a
  10. Funeral Tyre - Fr. 6a+
  11. Tyred Out - Fr. 6b
  12. Retyred - Fr. 5
  13. Too Tyred? - Fr. 6c
  14. Walls Have Ears - Fr. 7a
  15. Pirelli Times - Fr. 7b+
  16. open proj
  17. It's been a Goodyear - Fr. 6b+
  18. Dunlop Special - Fr. 6b
  19. Retread - Fr. 6b
  20. Remoulded - Fr. 6c
  21. Tyre Times - Fr. 6c
  22. Locking Nut - Fr. 6c+
  23. Onto the Canvas - Fr. 5
  24. Bald Patch - Fr. 5
  25. Mal Alignment 5
  26. Get Tracking - Fr. 6a
  27. Wear and Tear - Fr. 5
  28. Wheel and Tyre - Fr. 6a
  29. Rimmed - Fr. 5c
  30. Torque Wrench - Fr. 5c


Gilwern Hill Main Crag. Photo: Robin McAlister
A busy day on the flowstone. Photo: Robin McAlister
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