Thurba East

From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
Thurba East
Rock Type Quarried Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 25 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Thurba to Overton
WGS-84 Location 51.558083, -4.274400
OS Grid Ref. SS 424 868
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.565848, -4.270856
GR Parking Location SS 427 876
Parking Postcode SA3 1PH
Base Elevation 12 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction South
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Seldomly
Climbing Type Normal
Crags Within 400m

Red Chamber, Thurba East, Thurba East Gully, Thurba Head, Thurba West

Tidal Status

Non tidal

Bolting Policy


About 150m east of the bay immediately east of Thurba Head is an easy angled crag above the path.


From the main Rhossili road, turn left in Pitton (south) to Great Pitton Farm (SS 427 876 or 51.556076, -4.267799) where there is a car park. The honesty box no longer exists and a system of seasonal tariffs is now in operation. Payment is made via a machine or paybyphone Ⓡ. See Pitton Parking for information on charges. Currently a maximum of £5.00 is charged for parking from 06.00 to 22.00.

On walking out of the car park, turn left and, after about 25 metres take the public footpath off to the right. Pass through a gate after about 15m and then follow the rough path for a further 200m where there is another gate. This is the top end of Mewslade.

Follow the path down the valley.

After about 5 minutes, where the sea starts to become visible, turn left (east) up the hill through an NT marked stile. A path wends gently up onto higher ground. For Thurba West, contour round towards the sea about 50m below the top of the hill to reach this small outcrop overlooking Mewslade Bay.

For the main crag, continue to the top and walk out towards the headland until a path cuts down and left (east). Follow this for 100m, then strike out to sea, to reach a non-tidal platform below the shoulder of the head and at the east side of the area. The routes on the front face are normally approached by abseiling down from the non-tidal platform to a highly tidal platform on the front face. This is only really practical on big tides. The routes on the east side are accessed by either abseil, or more commonly by traversing in from the platform above the high tide level.

For Thurba East continue along the coastal path.


The Routes

  1. Depression - S
    Climb the left-hand rib of the crag on loose rock. 32m.

  2. Knight Games - S
    Some distance on from Depression is a short crag above a short grey wall facing due south. Climb th 10m.e centre of the wall, traversing off right to finish.

  3. An Oxford Connection - VD
    In the valley to the east of Knight Games with wooden fence in it is an east facing crag. Climb directly up about 3m right of the left-hand arête. 12m.

First Ascents

  1. Depression - J.Harwood, E.Smith 08.05.1999
  2. Knight Games - J.Harwood, E.Smith, M.Leask, M.Ismail 28.03.1999
  3. An Oxford Connection - J.Harwood, M.Leask, E.Smith, M.Ismail 28.03.1999

Additional Photos