Second Corner

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Second Corner
Second corner and south wall.jpg
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 20 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Tor Bay and Great Tor
Local Area Great Tor East
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.569805, -4.119753
OS Grid Ref. SS 531 877
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.575583, -4.127859
GR Parking Location SS 526 884
Parking Postcode SA3 2HJ
Base Elevation 0 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction East
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Family
Seepage
Tidal
Before/After Low Tide 2.0 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 400m

First Corner, Great Tor Proper, High Slab, Monty's Slab, Odin's Cave, Odin's Wall, Ramp Zawn, Second Corner



Second Corner
Trad Grades
<= HVS 11
E1 - E3 1
E4 - E5 0
>= E6 0

Tidal Status

1.5-2.0 hours either side of low tide.

Bolting Policy

No bolting.

Preamble

Relaxed spot on the beach suitable for families (if you keep a look out for the tide) or anyone who fancies some easy soloing.

Access

From the parking at Penmaen, pass through the gate and follow the rough track. After 200 metres pass an old barn on your right. Here the track makes a sharp right and then a sharp left turn and becomes a narrow concrete path between high hedges. After 300 metres you come to a gate.

Pass through the gate and then follow the path for 200m from where the path's surface turns to sand. Follow the (now) wide path for 100 metres until you see a steep sandy path branching off on your left.

Follow this narrow path downwards for 120m to arrive at the back of Three Cliffs Bay.

Follow the cliff line passing between the rocky island and the main cliff. After 450m. Roughly opposite the island, on the south-east facing cliff line. is Second Corner.

Descents

The Routes

Second Corner

Second Corner
Trad Grades
<= HVS 5
E1 - E3 0
E4 - E5 0
>= E6 0
The Nose

The left wall of the Second Corner is marked by a v-shaped nose at its centre. Left of this nose lie two corners.

  1. Left Corner D
    The left of the two corners. 8m.

  2. Buttress M
    The rock between Left Corner and Sharp Edge. 8m.

  3. Sharp EdgeVD
    Takes the short slab followed by the corner above, which provides good laybacking. 10m.

  4. The Nose HS,4a
    Start in a hollow just right of the slab of Sharp Edge. Climb up left to a ledge on that route, before swinging right onto the nose which is taken to the top. 10m.

  5. Quartz Slab VD
    Attain the quartz flecked slab just right of The Nose. Follow this with help from the crack to the right, to a bulge. Surmount this to follow the edge above. 10m.

  6. Right Block Buttress - S
    The wall right of Quartz Slab, is climbed by moving firstly a little right and then back into the centre of the wall to finish. 8m.

Second Corner South Wall

Second Corner
Trad Grades
<= HVS 6
E1 - E3 1
E4 - E5 0
>= E6 0

This buttress forms the right face of the Second Corner. It is notable for the chimney that splits it.

  1. Dr. Focke’s Pension Fund - HVS,5b
    A problem up a vague groove in the left arête of the chimney recess. 7m.

  2. South Chimney And Slab - VD *
    From the back of the chimney, back and footing gains a ledge, from where a crack leads to a steepening. Step up and left over this, to finish up the slab above. Entertaining. 15m.

  3. Left Arête - S,4c
    Climb the slabby right face of the arête to the right. Delicate. 7m.

  4. RIP Norman - D
    Off to the right is a hole. Crawl in through this and climb the chimney above. 7m.

  5. Taste Of Spring Chicken - S
    Off to the right is a platform. Follow the corner up from this and the crack above. 7m.

  6. Scary Cow Don’t Jump - E1,5c
    Climb the arête from a small boulder. 7m.

First Ascents

Second Corner

  1. J.Talbot 1959
  2. J.Talbot 1959
  3. J.Talbot 1959
  4. J.Talbot 1959
  5. J.Talbot 1959
  6. J.Talbot 1959

South Wall

  1. G.Ashmore 15.03.2003
  2. J.Talbot 00.00.1959
  3. J.Kerry, A. Randall 00.00.1970
  4. L.Cole 16.03.2003
  5. L.Cole 07.03.2002
  6. L.Cole 07.03.2002

Additional Photos

Notes