Monty's Slab

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Monty's Slab
Crag shot monts slab.jpg
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 20 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Tor Bay and Great Tor
Local Area Great Tor East
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.570162, -4.119346
OS Grid Ref. SS 532 878
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.575583, -4.127859
GR Parking Location SS 526 884
Parking Postcode SA3 2HJ
Base Elevation 0 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction South East
Aspect Partially Sunny
Wind Sheltered Mostly
Climbing Type Normal
Seepage Never
Tidal
Before/After Low Tide 2.0 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 400m

First Corner, Great Tor Proper, High Slab, Monty's Slab, Odin's Cave, Odin's Wall, Ramp Zawn, Second Corner

Tidal Status

Bolting Policy

No bolting.

Preamble

Found at the left side of First Corner.

Access

From the parking at Penmaen, pass through the gate and follow the rough track. After 200 metres pass an old barn on your right. Here the track makes a sharp right and then a sharp left turn and becomes a narrow concrete path between high hedges. After 300 metres you come to a gate.

Pass through the gate and then follow the path for 200m from where the path's surface turns to sand. Follow the (now) wide path for 100 metres until you see a steep sandy path branching off on your left.

Follow this narrow path downwards for 120m to arrive at the back of Three Cliffs Bay.

Follow the cliff line passing between the rocky island and the main cliff. After 500m. Roughly opposite the island, on the south-east facing cliff line. is Monty's Slab

Descents

The Routes

Monty's Slab, First Corner and High Slab

Just before the First Corner is reached you reach a small slabby zawn.

41. Master Bates Smear HVS,5b

Climb the slab direct.

(LM.Condick, L.Cole 2002)


42. Monty's Slab HS,5a

Follow a vague crack diagonally left after a hard start.

High Slab

This is the steep slab set behind the climbs at south wall (visible in the photo). Currently slightly vegetated but good quality bold routes await those who are willing to give this piece of esoterica a go


50. Gardeners Question Time - E2 5c *

Takes a slightly wondering line up the most compact and highest part of the slab . Start below a horizontal crack /notch. Find a way up to this, step left then take a rising line on micro cracks rightwards eventually reaching a small downward pointing tooth/flake in the upper part of the wall. From here tend slightly left to the top. Reasonable block belays. A good, bold and technically demanding climb. 12m.

Chris Wyatt 7/7/2014

First Ascents

Additional Photos

Notes