Odin's Cave

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Odin's Cave
Odin's Cave from above Odin's Wall
Odin's Cave from above Odin's Wall
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 20 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Tor Bay and Great Tor
Local Area Great Tor East
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.568967, -4.121902
OS Grid Ref. SS 530 876
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.575583, -4.127859
GR Parking Location SS 526 884
Parking Postcode SA3 2HJ
Base Elevation 9 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction North East
Aspect Rarely Sunny
Wind Sheltered Always
Climbing Type Normal
Seepage Needs a short dry spell
Crags Within 400m

First Corner, Great Tor Proper, High Slab, Monty's Slab, Odin's Cave, Odin's Wall, Ramp Zawn, Second Corner

Tidal Status

Non-tidal but a little awkward to get to when not approached from along the beach.

Bolting Policy

Bolting permissible. NT currently refusing permission.[1]

Preamble

Cave currently with one route. Scope for quite a few more when permission from the NT is forthcoming.

Access

Easiest access is from the beach at low (or near low) tide.

From the parking at Penmaen, pass through the gate and follow the rough track. After 200 metres pass an old barn on your right. Here the track makes a sharp right and then a sharp left turn and becomes a narrow concrete path between high hedges. After 300 metres you come to a gate.

Pass through the gate and then follow the path for 200m from where the path's surface turns to sand. Follow the (now) wide path for 100 metres until you see a steep sandy path branching off on your left.

Follow this narrow path downwards for 120m to arrive at the back of Three Cliffs Bay.

Follow the cliff line passing between the rocky island and the main cliff. After 600m the cliff line takes a sharp turn to the right. Follow it past Odin'sWall and scrable up to the cave from a point left of the corner.

Otherwise it's an interesting, but easy and long-ish, scramble from Russian Zawn. A scramble can also be made from the start of East Ridge on Great Tor itself.

Descents

Leave a lower-off rope on Obscenities. In the case of Another Fine Mess, it might be best to leave this as your last climb as there is no easy way to decsribe how to get down again!

The Routes

Rock climbing topo for odin's Cave, Three Cliffs Bay, Gower, South Wales
Odin's Cave
  1. Obscenities - E4,6b
    The right wall and rib of the cave. Climb the rib, TR, 2PRs, to the roof. Pull through into the groove via very thin moves until a "thank God" hold can be reached. Continue direct to the top (a pre-placed rope belay is advisable). 12m.

    Not actually in Odin's Cave, but on the broken slabs to the right is the following route:-

  2. Another Fine Mess - Severe
    Take a line on the slabs to the right of the Obscenities. Some loose rock here. 14m

First Ascents

  1. Obscenities - E.Kellar, A.Wilson 00.00.1990
  2. Another Fine Mess - Mark Winder, A. N. Other 27.04.2011

Additional Photos

Notes

  1. According to the NT's published geodata, they don't actually own this place!