Quartz Corner
From South Wales Climbing Wiki
Quartz Corner | |
| |
Rock Type | Natural Carboniferous Limestone |
---|---|
Climbing Style | Trad |
Approach Time | 20 minutes |
Area | Gower |
Sub Area | Heatherslade to Pwll Du |
Geodata | |
WGS-84 Location | 51.561697, -4.077738 |
OS Grid Ref. | SS 560 868 |
WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.566835, -4.087865 |
GR Parking Location | SS 553 873 |
Parking Postcode | SA3 2DH |
Base Elevation | 6 metres (Other) |
General Info | |
Faces Direction | South West |
Aspect | Sunny |
Wind Sheltered | Seldomly |
Climbing Type | Normal |
Seepage | |
Tidal | |
Before/After Low Tide | 5.5 hours (See Note) |
Crags Within 600m | |
Bacon Hole, Bosco's Den Area, Bowen's Parlour, Bucketland, Golden Wall, Marble Arch, Minchen Hole, Pantheon, Prawn Zawn, Quartz Corner | |
TIDAL STATUS
The crag is not tidal but would be very wet in high seas.
DESCENTS
Carefully scramble down the east side of the crag.
PREAMBLE
A small crag in a forlorn position, with some reasonable routes.
Situated just east from Bacon Hole. The gear is often sparse. The area is divided by an obvious corner.
Bacon Hole is subject to a bird ban from 1st March to 1st August, so please avoid walking round west from Quartz Corner during this period.
THE ROUTES
To the left of the crag going towards the Cave there is a large boulder on the ramp.
- Squash The Jumping Frogs Fr 7a+**
The steep wall above the large boulder on the ramp.
The start of the crag proper
- West Groove D
Obvious groove left of West Edge. Loose. - West Edge 15m S
The left arête of the left (west) wall. - Quartz Wall 15m HS 4a *
A good climb with surprisingly good protection. Climb up the white quartz line to gain the ledge. Continue direct up the quartz covered wall, briefly moving right at the brown patch. - Groove And Wall 15m S
Head up the distinct groove to a hole, step left and finish direct up the wall above. - Right Pillar 15m S
Follow Groove And Wall to the hole, then climb the crack rightwards to a poorly protected steepening. Finish up the pillar above. - Nose And Slab 15m M
Climb the left side of the flying rib, 2m left of the corner. Finish up the easy slab above . - Great Corner 15m M
Climb the large angled corner in the centre of the crag. - West Wall 15m HS,4a
The wall just right of Great Corner is slabby to start with protection where you need it. - Direct 15m HS,4a
Climb the wall to the right via a faint groove. - South Edge 12m HVD
Climb up to a concavity, step left and finish up the wall above.
FIRST ASCENTS
- Squash The Jumping Frogs - Rob Lamey 2010+
- West Groove -
- West Edge - J.Talbot 1960
- Quartz Wall - J.Talbot 1960
- Groove And Wall - J.Talbot 1960
- Right Pillar - J.Talbot 1960
- Nose And Slab - J.Talbot 1960
- Great Corner - J.Talbot 1960
- West Wall - J.Talbot 1960
- Direct - J.Talbot 1960
- South Edge - J.Talbot 1960