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Eel Lips
Eel Lips
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad/Sport
Approach Time 20 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Heatherslade to Pwll Du
WGS-84 Location 51.562304, -4.079205
OS Grid Ref. SS 559 868
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.566835, -4.087865
GR Parking Location SS 553 873
Parking Postcode SA3 2DH
Base Elevation 0 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction South
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Seldomly
Climbing Type Normal
Seepage Needs a short dry spell
Before/After Low Tide 1.0 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 400m

Bacon Hole, Bosco's Den Area, Bowen's Parlour, Bucketland, Golden Wall, Marble Arch, Pantheon, Prawn Zawn, Quartz Corner


1 hour either side of low water. However, note that the escape requires enough time to get back to and out of Bosco's Den Area. The approach and escape to and from Bacon Hole may prove easier.


New sports routes allowed.


By abseil from gorse bushes and a bolt placed on the high path into Bacon Hole.


The impressive red roof and it's wings look fertile ground for the sports climber.Further left and into the zawn are several traditional route which used to require a fixed rope to lower off. Where indicated bolt lower-offs have been placed to avoid the terrifying scramble out through vertical grass and rubble.

Topo Bucketland EelLips.jpg
  1. Whetstone - HS 4a
    The yellow slab outside the small zawn and left of the red roof. Fixed rope or scramble out (crux). 15m

  2. Eel Lips - Fr. 7b+ **
    The centre of the big roof. Pockets and stretches lead to a superb hold just beyond an even better coral fossil. Some inventive heelhooking required to turn the lip, then a rock up leads to a static position and an easy finish. This replaces the aid route mentioned in the 2004 Gower & South East Wales guidebook. Named after the little fellah we saw swimming in the rock pool below. Accessible about 2-2.5 hours either side of low from Bosch’s or Bacon Hole - no need to abseil in.

    To the left is a small tidal zawn,take care with the advancing tide.On the right wall from left to right are

  3. An axe - HVS 5a
    A short crack to the ledge then the faint crack to the top. Either lower off rope or traverse 3m right to a fixed belay. 15m

  4. Dear Henry - HVS/E1 5a
    The wall R again to the fixed belay.15m

  5. Mend It - MVS 4b
    The obvious crack moving left to fixed belay. 15m

  6. Dear Lisa - MVS 4b
    The crack through the mid height roof left of the zawn's arête to the fixed belay. 15m

  7. There's A Hole In My Bucket - HS 4a
    Climb the arête moving left at the top to the fixed belay. 15m

There are supposedly about 6 other routes in this zawn details of which have not been revealed hence the inability to include them.

First Ascents

  1. Whetstone - R.Thomas 31.05.2000
  2. Eel Lips - G.Ashmore & Geraint Morris 12.08.2017
  3. An axe - R.Thomas & N'Neill
  4. Dear Henry - R.Thomas & N. O'Neill
  5. Mend It - R.Thomas & N. O'Neill
  6. Dear Lisa - N. O'Neill & R.Thomas
  7. There's A Hole In My Bucket - R.Thomas & Ed Rees

There are supposedly about 6 other routes in this zawn details of which have not been revealed hence the inability to include them

Additional Photos