Bosco's Den Area
|Bosco's Den Area|
|( Bacons Eye )|
|Rock Type||Natural Carboniferous Limestone|
|Approach Time||30 minutes|
|Sub Area||Heatherslade to Pwll Du|
|WGS-84 Location||51.562060, -4.080095|
|OS Grid Ref.||SS 559 868|
|WGS-84 Parking Location||51.566835, -4.087865|
|GR Parking Location||SS 553873|
|Parking Postcode||SA3 2DH|
|Base Elevation||0 metres (Other)|
|Before/After Low Tide||2.0 hours (See Note)|
|Crags Within a Half Mile.|
|RAD Notice/Restriction||Bosco's Den Area@BMC RAD|
Bosco's Wall and Bosco's Gulch 2 hours either side of low water. Bosco's Cave is non-tidal, but note that access out without jumaring is only 2½ hours either side of low water. Golden Wall and Zawn have similar tidal windows although high usually non-tidal ledges can extend the climbing time in good conditions.
Most routes are bolted,3 are trad with bolted lower offs,where not stolen.( see descriptions)
Descent to the crags as in the access notes. All routes should have lower offs.
Bosco's Wall forms the east side of the promontary itself and is connected to Bosco's Den by Bosco's Gulch. There is a bird ban (nesting choughs) from 1st March to 30th June on the routes from (and including) Hanger them High rightwards.
Situated on the east side of the promontory. There are NO seasonal bird restrictions to climbing.
- Sam Can Do It - Fr. 5
A pleasant excursion up the crenellated wall left of the stranded fishnet.15m.Roy Thomas Sam Caan april 2019
- Swansea Hillbillies - E1,5b
Towards the seaward end of the bay are two routes, this is the left-hand one, which finishes at a stripped lower off. 20m. R.Thomas 20.06.1999
- Geoff's A Spanner - E1,5b
The the right-hand route, which moves up to a flake above a bulge. From the flake wander up to the belay of the previous route.The belay has been sabotaged and consists of two bolts stubs.Any one with 2 x10mm nuts and hangers could easily restore it.20m.R.Thomas 20.06.1999
- Geoff's Nutcracker 20m Fr. 5+ *
Climb just right of the scoop until it steepens then reach right on flakes to a ring and glue in belay. Roy Thomas & Tim Hoddy march 2019
- Clap 'Em In Irons 20m Fr. 6a *
Start L of the red wall on scooped holds until it steepens then gain the shared belay. Roy Thomas & Tim Hoddy march 2019
As the inlet narrows so the Gulch begins. Much of the stolen or sabotaged fixed protection/belays has been replaced. No seasonal restrictions.
- Simple Simon - E2,5c
Right again is a PR at 5m. Climb to the PR and move slightly left, then back right to some thin moves to gain an overlap at its right end. Pull up on suspect rock to a BB.20m.R.Thomas 29.05.1999
- Clapham Injunction - Fr. 6b **
As for Simple Simon moving right and up to a poor crack. Climb the wall direct to step left at the top to the belay of the previous route.20m. A direct start is possible at 6c+.R.Thomas 29.05.1999
- Philandering Fillipino - Fr. 6c
Tricky starting moves lead to an easing and shared belay of two previous routes,stapled. 20m
- Gold Teeth In Them There Hills Fr 6a+ *
Start 2m left of a prominent boulder towards the landward end of the crag. Climb up a set of flakes to finish up and slightly left to a lower off. 20m.R.Thomas 29.05.1999
- Hanger Them High - Fr. 6a+ *
Start immediately left of the prominent boulder. Climb flakes then pull slightly rightward round the overlap. Finish direct past cracks.20m. R.Thomas 29.05.1999
- Y'All Come Back Now Fr 6a+**
Start from the prominent boulder and climb the wall direct with a tricky start to a shared lower off.20mR.Thomas 06.06.1999
To the right of the large boulder the GULCH narrows considerably
- The Clampetts Fr6c *
To the right of the boulder climb the wall trending slightly left to the high lower off.The first staple has been vandalised but it is possible to stick clip past it.G.Gibson 00.06.1999
- Jump Over My Shadow Fr7a *
Start to the right of The Clampetts and climb an undercut layback crack to gain a slab. Pull through an overlap and gain the ledge and a tricky finish on the headwall.G.Gibson 00.06.1999
- Conglomeration Fr7a *
Way up to the right, is a huge square lump of conglomerate. Gain and pass this to gain the ledge and blind headwall above.G.Gibson 00.06.1999
- Standing On A Beach Fr 6c
Scramble up the corner to gain a ledge, then step back onto the wall and follow the left-hand bolt line past various huge conglomerate deposits.25m.G.Gibson 00.06.1999
- Reign Of The Deer Fr7a *
As for Standing On A Beach, but take the right-hand finish.G.Gibson 00.03.2000
The (DEN) at top of the Gulch is forbidden territory to climbers.
Bosco's CaveUp to the right is another cave. Seasonal restrictions apply. It is easily reached by scrambling up from the beach. There were two projects on the left wall but these have been completed (no details). On the left are:-
- Snatch Fr Fr 6c+
- Starter For Ten Fr 7c
Stapled,done by Martyn Richards.
- Squeal Like A Hog 25m E3,6a Fr 6c *
The main section of the cave is blessed with a diagonal line up cracks and cursed with some heavy metal. Climb it with extreme awkwardness and poorly spaced bolts.
J.Bullock, G.Morris 00.00.2000
- The Millennium Thug Fr 7a
Powerful climbing up the east wall of the cave and cutting through Squeal Like A Hog. 25m.
Just down and right is another sea level buttress where several solos have been done,some at high tide.The depth of water is worrying so carefully spot your landing point at low tide.
Paddling Pool Buttress
- Machiavellian Pillar- E3, 5b
- Choughed to bits-E4, 6a
- Toe nail licks-E3, 5c
- Silent ocean calling-E5, 6a All martin crocker solo.