Longhole Cave Buttress
From South Wales Climbing Wiki
| Longhole Cave Buttress | |
 Longhole Cave Buttress | |
| Rock Type | Natural Carboniferous Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Trad |
| Approach Time | 15 minutes |
| Area | Gower |
| Sub Area | Thurba to Overton |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.543001, -4.234897 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 451 850 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.54486, -4.220247 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 461 852 |
| Parking Postcode | SA3 1NQ |
| Base Elevation | 38 metres (SRTM Estimation) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | North East |
| Aspect | Partially Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Mostly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Seepage | Quick drying |
| Crags Within a Half Mile. | |
|
Black Hole Crag, Black Streak Crag, Boiler Slab, Engine Room Slab, Longhole Cave Buttress, Longhole Cliff, Overton Cliff, Upper Blackhole Crag | |
TIDAL STATUS
Non- tidal.
PREAMBLE
A small buttress near the entrance to Longhole Cave. It offers a few sheltered short pitches and some bouldering.
ACCESS
This well hidden cave is only a 65 metres north-east of Boiler Slab. On the final and direct northerly approach to Boiler Slab and before the path descends the rocky "steps", branch off left and look for the buttress. The cave is on its east side.
Located in the Long Hole Cliff Nature Reserve
THE ROUTES
- Route 2 - Severe
Take a line the south side of the buttress over the initial overhang and then the less steep (and loose) wall above. 8m. - Grasshopper - VS 5a
Climb the overhanging groove between the arête and the vertical groove of Route 1 - Route 1 - V.Diff
On the eastern side of the buttress and at 10 metres from the cave entrance, climb the steep (for V.Diff) and juggy groove for 6 metres and then step left to a ledge. From there climb directly to the top. 9m - No Name or Grade Yet
FIRST ASCENTS
- Route 2 - G.Smitham, D.Smitham. 15-04-2015
- Grasshopper - S.Hill, M.Hill. 03-07-2019
- Route 1 - D.Smitham, G.Smitham. 15-04-2015
- No Name or Grade Yet - Gwyn Evans. 3rd July 2019
