Holys Wash Buttress

Holys Wash Buttress
Rock Type	Quarried Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style	Trad
Approach Time	15 minutes
Area	Gower
Sub Area	Oxwich
Geodata
WGS-84 Location	51.546538, -4.168107
OS Grid Ref.	SS 498 853
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location	SA3 1LX
Base Elevation	25 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction	South
Aspect	Sunny
Wind Sheltered	Seldomly
Climbing Type	Normal
Seepage	Quick drying
Crags Within 400m
Holys Wash Buttress

Holys Wash Buttress
Trad Grades
<= HVS	6
E1 - E3	3
E4 - E5	0
>= E6	0

PREAMBLE

A new "discovery".

ACCESS

Approach from Oxwich Green (limited parking) via footpath south next to caravan park through double kissing gates then cliff top path towards Oxwich point. Buttress is just beyond another kissing gate, follow the shallow valley depression down to the grassy base of the crag. 15 mins. Routes described left to right.

THE ROUTES

Holy's Wash Buttress, LHS

1. Hello Neddy - E1,5a
   The steep front face of the left hand pillar. Start right of the arête, climb up and left to a ledge then make a tricky and committing pull onto another ledge. Step right and climb the head-wall. 11m.
   
   
2. Back-Body - VS,4b
   The short groove at the top of the cliff inbetween the pillar on the left and the compact wall just right. The lower wall is easy but poorly protected, the groove itself has an undercut start and may involve old school thrutching 10m.
   
   
3. Stumbles Around - VS,4b
   The compact wall left of the obvious right angled corner, climbed directly up the centre on good rock. Pleasant. 10m.
   
   
4. Vintage Jam-pot Chimney - VD
   The wide chimney/crack in the corner. 10m.
   
   
5. English Ghosts - HVS.5a *
   The obvious square cut arête started from the base of its left wall. Good climbing, great position and high in grade. 11m.
   
   
6. Why We Got The Sack From The Museum - E2,5b *
   The steep crack on the left side of the front face. Low in in grade. 12m.
   
   
   

   Holy's Wash, RHS
7. Chill Dummy - HVS,5a *
   The right facing corner/groove on the right side of the front face. Sustained and steeper than it looks. 12m.
   
   
8. Society of Healthy Forms - E1,5b *
   The off-width crack starting at a higher level to the right. Good value. 10m.
   
   
9. Sarsaparilla - VD
   The blocky chimney/cleft above the cave up to the right. 9m.
   
   

First Ascents

First Crag Section

1. Hello Neddy - Nick Taylor 12/8/2019
2. Back-Body - Nick Taylor, Lesley Burgess 12/8/2019
3. Stumbles Around - Nick Taylor, John Allen 13/9/18
4. Vintage Jam-pot Chimney - Nick Taylor solo 19/8/18
5. English Ghosts - Nick Taylor, John Allen 13/9/18
6. Why We Got The Sack From The Museum - Nick Taylor, John Allen 14/9/18
7. Chill Dummy - Nick Taylor, John Allen 13/9/18
8. Society of Healthy Forms - Nick Taylor, John Allen 13/9/18
9. Sarsaparilla - Nick Taylor solo 19/8/18

ADDITIONAL PHOTOS

• 

  John Allen on the FA of English Ghosts

• 

  Nick Taylor on the FA of English Ghosts

• 

  Nick Taylor on the FA of English Ghosts

• 

  Nick Taylor on Why We Got The Sack From The Museum