Telpyn Point - Amroth

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Telpyn Point - Amroth
Gareth Tucker on Man or Mollusc
Gareth Tucker on Man or Mollusc
Rock Type Quarried Sandstone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 15 minutes
Area Carmarthenshire
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.73400, -4.629388
OS Grid Ref. SN 185 071
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation 0 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction South
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered
Climbing Type Normal
Midge Problem Never
Seepage Quick drying
Tidal
Before/After Low Tide 6.0 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 3.0 km

Morfa Bychan and Pendine, Telpyn Point - Amroth

BMC RAD
RAD Notice/Restriction Telpyn Point - Amroth@BMC RAD



TIDAL STATUS

Tidal. Progressively less so to the west. On neap tides, Mollusc Wall can be marginally non tidal.

A reasonable escape from the east side of Mollusc Wall / west side of The Zawn can be made by climbing carefully past the L.O. of Ma Moule Don't Like U Laffin, fencepost belays well back. There is also a short easy scramble(diff) a few metres left of the "zawn"

Don't get caught out by the tide in the Tremors / Cave area.

PREAMBLE

The climbing style in the Mollusc Wall area is similar to many of the South East Wales sandstone quarries. However, it does contain a fairly unique feature, a sheet covering of quartz. The quartz can be brittle in places but increased traffic of late has broken off most of the loose areas. The grades may now feel a little soft.

The Zawn is steep and juggy with good rock quality, very much a fun area.

The Tremors Wall area is a bigger version of the The Zawn. This area is not for the faint hearted and provides the main challenges at the crag. The rock quality is fair to poor in a few places. Some of the holds get sandy, however a quick brush is all that is required to clean the sand accumulation off any crucial slopers. Many of the lines, as yet unbolted, look spectacular - watch this space for further developments.

The Cave Wall is the 'adventure' area. It is big and scary. The rock quality is 'variable' particularly on the cliffs lower half. Hopefully traffic will improve the situation (but we doubt it). Some of the easier lines on the right are more amenable but still should be shown a dose of respect.

Thanks to Gary Gibson for initially posting this information on his sports climbs website. The 'projects' are currently unbolted. As Gary has made the following information available in advance of climbing the projects, as a matter of courtesy he should be consulted if you wish to attempt them.

ACCESS

Best to take an OS map on a first visit.

1) Find Amroth beach, park there, walk east along the beach.

or

2) a) Pass through Amroth, past the pub (small bridge), up the hill and park in Layby on the right (metal gate and footpath).

b) Follow the newly laid gravel path down through woodland to a valley feature.
c) Take a fork left and go down steps to a small stream bridge, cross this to the other side of the valley.
d) Follow footpath until old fenceposts are visible on the cliffs edge through the low gorse bushes. You can see Worms head here if it is a clear day.
e) Go directly down, carefully, scrambling to the left side of Fishermans Wall.

The rock platform at the base of the crag is unbelievably slippery when wet - worse than ice. So be very careful.

To find your desired crag, type the name in to the Filter Markers box (top right corner of the map).

Loading map...


DESCENTS

Mainly bolted lower-offs, in western part of cliffs two routes walk off and descend by a scramble behind the large square block.

THE ROUTES

Minnow Walls

Several short bouldery excursions including Mackerel Massacre, and Bait Balls, on the short wall left of the descent scramble. There are assorted belays on the terraces above for the trad routes if you look hard enough.

Minnow Wall
  1. Damp Cod Piece - Fr. 6b+
    The left arête of the set back wall; very short but crimpy, sometimes seeps.

  2. The Cod Father - Fr. 6b
    Centre of wall via the flake.

  3. Codling - HS, 4b
    The surprisingly awkward slopy corner.

  4. Castaway Island - HS, 4b
    Romp up, sticking to the arête.

  5. Bait Balls - VS, 4c
    Crack close to arête

  6. Mackerel Massacre - HVS, 5a
    Central crack to small alcove.

  7. Signal Crayfish - Fr. 6b+
    Centre of wall R of crack, crimpy but shortlived..

  8. Fishmonger - Fr. 6a+
    Climb R of bolts, use of handholds on the arête permitted at this grade but avoid the steps. Climb left of the bolts at Fr. 6b+

Fisherman's Wall

Excellent venue, good rock,reasonably well equipped, next to fine beach and routes of a reasonable grade. There are bolts available for lower-offs on the routes which top out and others to calm the qualms of those seeking the millenial indoor/outdoor experience. If you have a proven track record of competency come and collect from the bolt fund and install yourself. It's nearly got it all!!

Fisherman's Wall - Left End
Fisherman's Wall - Right End
  1. Little Shrimp - Fr. 6a+
    An isolated wall over to the left, behind a large square boulder at the foot of the descent scramble.

  2. Sand Eel - Fr. 4 ***
    The arête,climbed on the L to newly installed shared belay on ledge.

  3. Tiddlers -Diff 3b
    Handy descent corner.

  4. Get Your Cod out Fr 5c
    Short wall squeezed above the ledgy sidewall,trickier than it looks if you keep direct.

  5. For Cod's Sake Fr 5b
    Short wall and ledges,3 bolts to shared belay on left.More trivia for jaded locals.
  6. Mermaid's Purse -Severe
    Disjointed scramble.

  7. SAE No More - Hvd
    Another ramble.

  8. Small Fry - Fr. 6a
    Keep to centre of wall,ledges on left out of bounds.

  9. Cure For Crabs - Fr. 5+
    Crackline on the left-hand side of the wall.

  10. Wrasse - Fr. 6b *
    A short fingery wall and shallow groove above.

  11. Cast Adrift - Fr. 6a+ *
    The wall just left of the cave.

  12. Hook, Line and Stinker - Fr. 6a+ *
    Steep wall to the right.

  13. A Fisherman's Tackle - Fr. 6b *
    Shallow groove line with a hard move through the overlap.

  14. Sprats from the Captain's Table - Fr. 6a
    Ledgy climb so attentive belayer essential. Tricky start,finish at the newly installed belay rings.

  15. Kipper Ripper Fr.- 6a *
    Start 1.69m to the R of previous.Ledgy with small roof crux so attentive belaying needed.

  16. Top Mouth Gudgeon - Fr. 6a+
    The left-hand thin crack,rockfall may have affected route,regeared 6a+.

  17. Leger System - Fr. 6a+
    The next thin crack above the overhang,rockfall, regeared

  18. Canny Ling - Fr. 6b+
    The final thin crack just left of the large corner,rockfall,regeared.

The Mollusc Wall

Mollusc Wall
  1. Tough Carapace - VS 4c
    The corner

  2. Barnacles at Dawn - Fr. 6c *
    The first line. Often Wet.

  3. Pray for the Cray - Fr. 7a+ **
    Leftwards trending crackline, often wet.

  4. Lobster Bisque - Fr. 7b *
    Vague crackline, often wet.

  5. Oyster Party - Fr. 7a *
    Technical moves away from gear at the top. Belay on right.

  6. Vladimir and the Pearl - Fr. 6c **
    The central line of the wall trends leftwards via a prominent crackline.

  7. Shellin' Out - Fr. 7b **
    Fine wall climbing.

  8. King Prawn - Fr. 7a *
    A series of thin cracks with good holds until the last move.

  9. Man or Mollusc - Fr. 7a+ *
    The wall just left of the corner. The last moves can be made to the left or right.

  10. Telpyn Corner - HVS 5a
    Trad corner.

    Nick Goile on Oyster Party
  11. Mussel Man - Fr. 5
    The arête.

  12. Moule Mariniere - Fr. 6a *
    The wall to the right.

  13. Ma Moule Don't Like U Laffin - Fr. 4
    Don't underestimate it, move left from the last BR.

The Zawn

30 metres to the right is a south facing wall set in a small zawn. This offers four worthwhile routes:

  1. Taxi to the Ocean - Fr. 7a **
    The impressive left-hand arête, gained from the left before transferring onto the overhanging side. Search for the hangers before embarking.

  2. Diving for Pearls - Fr. 6b *
    The centre of the fine overlapped wall.

  3. Sea Fairer - Fr. 6a *
    The overlaps above a groove start.

  4. Glug, Glug, Glug - Fr. 6a
    The last on the wall. Shared belay.

Tremors Wall

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 1 July on Tremors Wall
See:BMC RAD

Restrictions apply from 1 March - 1 July.
Reason: Nesting Birds

A seasonal restriction is in place on 'Tremors Zawn' from 1st March to 1st July due to nesting choughs. This includes the following routes which are within 20m of the nest; 'Hullabaluh' to 'Spectre of Love'. 'Cave Wall' is far enough from the nest that there should be no significant disturbance if climbers are on this section.

Tremors Wall
  1. Hullabaluh - Fr. 6a *
    The left-facing groove line exiting right.

  2. Crest of a Wave - Fr. 6c *
    The right arête of the groove gives a few excellent moves.

  3. Keelhaul - Fr. 6b+ *
    Good rock, hard through the overlap. Trend leftwards to the belay.

  4. Plankwalk - Fr. 6a+
    The thin crackline at the right-hand side of the ledge. Lower off into a puddle!

  5. The Richter Scale - Fr. 6b *
    The next crackline to the right.

  6. Project The tiered overlaps to the right gained from the left-hand side of the next ledge system.

    The next routes start below the main section of overlapping wall from some convenient ledge systems. These can be gained easily at low tide and at mid-tide can be traversed to from the ledges below the last group of routes preferably when the tide is ebbing.

  7. Tremors - Fr. 6c *
    The left-hand line piercing the overlaps to the right of a huge perched block has an easy start and short tricky section through the tiered roofs. The belay lies in the box-shaped recess at the top of the crag.

  8. Dead Man's Shoes - Fr. 7a **
    Tackles the lower tiered overlaps from a shallow groove to a sandy ledge. The tiered overlaps above provide sustained moves to gain a respite below the final bulge. This is tackled 2m right of the bolt via good holds and a swing back left to the belay.

  9. Spectre of Love - Fr. 6c+ ***
    A magnificent route. Tackle the roofs above the next groove line and continue direct through the twin overlaps to gain a thin crack system leading to the capping overhang. This is overcome by an easy long reach or a jamming crack, take your pick.

Cave Wall

Cave Wall
  1. The Ego Sanction - Fr. 6c+
    The right-hand side of the cave gives a terrifying hollow jug-filled experience (the pendulum like block is apparently locked in place). Sandy climbing up the headwall via a slim overlap.

  2. Mental Massage - Fr. 6b+
    The shallow groove line bordering the right-hand side of the cave gives pleasant climbing to a half-height belay with a harder second pitch.Can be done as one pitch with long rope.

  3. Men from Boys - E2 5a, 5b
    Trad line via arête and groove to ledge finishing by fine jamming crack.

  4. Safe Connection - Fr. 5+
    The centre of the wall to the right via a thin crack system.

  5. Innocents Abroad - Fr. 6a
    Branches right to climb wall.

First Ascents

Minnow Walls

  1. Damp Cod Piece -
  2. The Cod Father -
  3. Codling -
  4. Castaway Island -
  5. Bait Ball -
  6. Mackerel Massacre -
  7. Signal Crayfish -
  8. Fishmonger -


Fisherman's Wall

  1. -R.Thomas G.Gibson
  2. R Thomas, Nicola and Myles Jordan 2008
  4. -R.Thomas G.Gibson
  5. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
  6. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
  7. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
  8. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
  9. -R.Thomas G.Gibson
  10. -R.Thomas G.Gibson
  11. -R.Thomas G.Gibson
  12. -R Thomas G. Gibson

The Mollusc Wall

  1. -R.Thomas N.O'Neill
  2. -G.Gibson
  3. -G.Gibson
  4. -G.Gibson
  5. -G.Gibson
  6. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
  7. -G.Gibson
  8. -G.Gibson
  9. -G.Gibson
  10. -Nick O'Neill
  11. -R.Thomas G.Gibson
  12. -R.Thomas G.Gibson
  13. -R.Thomas G.Gibson

The Zawn

  1. -G. Gibson R.Thomas
  2. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
  3. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
  4. -G.Gibson R.Thomas

Tremors Wall

  1. -G. Gibson R.Thomas
  2. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
  3. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
  4. -G.Gibson
  5. -G.Gibson
  6. -G.Gibson
  7. -
  8. -G.Gibson
  9. -G.Gibson

Cave Wall

  1. -
  2. -G.Gibson R.Thomas
  3. -R.Thomas G.Gibson
  4. -R.Thomas Stu Llewellyn 05.05.08
  5. -R.Thomas 00.00.08
  6. -R.Thomas

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