Prissen's Tor

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Prissen's Tor
Prissens tor.jpg
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Trad
Approach Time 25 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area North Gower
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.619862, -4.275357
OS Grid Ref. SS 425 936
WGS-84 Parking Location 51.618646, -4.255126
GR Parking Location SS 439 935
Parking Postcode SA3 1DJ
Base Elevation 3 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction South
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Seldomly
Climbing Type Family
Midge Problem Never
Seepage Quick drying
Tidal
Before/After Low Tide 5.0 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 400m

Prissen's Tor




BOLTING POLICY

No bolting allowed

PREAMBLE

A small south-west facing wall of compact limestone on a nice beach[1], the under-side of tilted strata. From left to right it increases in height up to about 14m max and has a steep lower half. The left side in particular is conducive to soloing, having a good sandy landing. Slightly harder lines go through the overlap on the right, at grades not exceeding HVS. Some worthwhile traversing and easy bouldering may also be found.

The crag is somewhat isolated but is worth the effort as the climbing here is better, in some respects, than Little Tor and is also suitable for families.[2] Be warned however! The bottom half of most of the climbs are rather awkward and, were it not for the sandy landings, would be a full grade harder.

The right side of the crag is just about non-tidal, the left side is accessible at mid-tide or earlier.

ACCESS

From the Cwm Ivy car park head north towards Whiteford Burrows, the path curves left then back right towards the beach. Head west around the headland, then cross the beach towards slabby rock at the southern end. The climbing is on the far side of this.

THE ROUTES

Main Wall

The left side of the crag is about 8m high and may be climbed anywhere at around VD to Severe standard on generally good rock. To the right the wall reaches 12-14m. The best routes are on this section, right of an obvious quartz crack.

  1. Easy Way Up - H.Diff
    Starts just left of where the topo shows Amoeba. 5m.

  2. Amoeba 8m VD
    The left side of the black wall then continue right of the arête.

  3. Flex 8m S,4a
    A few metres left of the quartz crack, the black wall directly climbed in the centre.

  4. Lazy Eye 14m VS,4b
    Climb the quartz crack, pull rightwards through the bulge on good undercuts then continue easily up the left side of the upper wall .

  5. Pockets a Pulling 14m VD *
    Start 2m right at a crack. Climb the centre of the wall pulling easily through the overlap and continuing direct.

  6. Elephant Head 14m VS,4c *
    Start up slabby rock just right of the crack, through the bulge then easier upper wall right of centre.

  7. Thread a Licking 14m HS,4b
    Right again, pull through the right side of the bulge, easily up the right hand edge of the upper wall on good holds.

  8. Just Bomber Gear 20m HVS,4c *
    A left to right traverse of the wall, at the level of the bulge. Start at a rail on the left side of the crag, boldly traverse the black wall to the start of the bulge, follow this all the way across, pulling onto the easy finishing wall at a large flake.

Sandy Slabs

Round the back of the crag (north side) is a easy-angled slab with two routes.

Sandy Slabs
  1. Twin Cracks - S
    Follw the quartz tramlines to the top

  2. Crack and Arête - D
    Unprotected route to the right reaching the arête at half height.

First Ascents

Many routes may well have been done before the ascents recorded here.

Main Wall

  1. Easy Way Up - S. Hill, M. Hill 22/05/2019
  2. Amoeba - N. Taylor 26/08/1995 o/s solo
  3. Flex - N. Taylor 26/08/1995 o/s solo
  4. Lazy Eye - N. Taylor 26/08/1995 o/s solo
  5. Pockets a Pulling - B. Doherty, C. McClune 19/05/2018
  6. Elephant Head - N. Taylor 26/08/1995 o/s solo
  7. Thread a Licking - C. McClune, B. Doherty 22/05/2018
  8. Just Bomber Gear - C. McClune, B. Doherty 22/05/2018


Sandy Slabs

  1. Twin Cracks -
  2. Crack and Arête -

ADDITIONAL PHOTOS

Notes

  1. It seems that Prissen's Tor is just another name for Spritsail Tor. Jeremy Talbot thought of them as different places and we will do so for now.
  2. However, Talbot (1970), p.139, doesn't think much of the crag; "Apart from some very problematic moves on the lower rocks of Prissen's Tor, there is very little of interest."