Costa del Major
From South Wales Climbing Wiki
| Costa del Major | |
 | |
| Rock Type | Natural Jurassic Limestone |
|---|---|
| Climbing Style | Sport |
| Approach Time | |
| Area | South Coast |
| Sub Area | Llantwit Coast |
| Geodata | |
| WGS-84 Location | 51.393078, -3.480009 |
| OS Grid Ref. | SS 971 670 |
| WGS-84 Parking Location | 51.401238, -3.484858 |
| GR Parking Location | SS 968 679 |
| Base Elevation | 0 metres (Other) |
| General Info | |
| Faces Direction | South |
| Aspect | Sunny |
| Wind Sheltered | Seldomly |
| Climbing Type | Normal |
| Seepage | Quick drying |
| Crags Within 2.0 km | |
Contents
PREAMBLE
Sunny, very steep bolted jurassic-banded limestone. Wear a helmet. Not suitable for children or instruction. Large dogs may prove difficult to get up/down onto the pebbles via the ledges. Consult Llantwit Major beach tide tables. Tidal climbing window 6/7 hrs depending on sea conditions and monthly tide cycle.
ACCESS
Costa del Major Overview
As for Stout Point. Similar parking spots.
If parking at Llantwit Beach take the coast path. If at the end of Mill Ley Lane walk through Rosedew Farm. Descend Fisherpersons Ledges just after the stranded kissing-gate in both cases.
THE ROUTES
Far Western Wing (Dirty Vert Wall)
This section of yellow rock is gained by walking west from the descent for 4 mins. Most routes have short vigorous starts then ease on the headwall. A good introduction to the local delights.Those wishing to record their routes will find this called Dirty Vert Wall on UKC. The wall often seeps hence the name but there are usually everdry sectors like the Devil's and Animals walls.
On the far left of the crag are a couple of embryonic lines with situ gearing ropes awaiting the drier spring 2024 season for completion
- Wonder Girl - Fr. 6a+ *
The wall to the left of the main crag. - Arizona Ted Fr 6b+*
The roof to the right. Now has it's own belay. - Czech This Out Fr 6b*
The roof further right. It's possible to flank the block but advise belayer stands off to the left - Pilsen Power Fr 6a*
low roof then trend left to shared belay of previous route. - Break Stuff - Fr. 6a
First route in the curry sauce cascade.Same start as next route but break out left at roof. - Gimme A Break - Fr. 6a
Straight uo wall. - Dreaming of Cleaner Things - Fr. 4+ *
R of slim buttress in centre of wall . - Smash and Grab - Fr. 6a
Shallow recess- stiff pull to start ,easier after. - Up and Under - Fr. 5+
R of recess,large head heigth block marks the start. - Simple Arithmetic - Fr. 6a
Faint corner to old rusty bolt to belay just under roof. - F*c*orisation - Fr. 5c
2m right of previous to shared L.O on left. - Algy Bra - Fr. 6a+
Left side of depression to move right to shared LO. - Trigonometry - Fr. 6a+ *
The centre of roof using rock fins. - Calculus - Fr. 6a+
The right side of depression moving left to L.O - Sums it Up Fr. - 6a
L side of roof to shared L.O on R - Simultaneous Equation - Fr. 5+
Roof L of pillar. - Iolo's Geode - Fr. 5+
faint pillar passing crystal pocket. - Crystal Balls -Fr.5+
The left arete of yellow slab - Iolo's Ammonite - Fr. 5+
Short yellow slab under large ammonite encrusted roof - Pulling on Puppies - Fr. 6b+
Steep roof.
Devil's Sector
A nice sector of everdry, juggy but steep climbs.
- Grasp The Devil's Toenail - Fr. 5
The sidewall on this everdry sector. - Devil's In The Detail - Fr. 5+
The corner/groove, steep start. - Devil of a Time - Fr. 6a *
Short but steep. - Devil's Playground - Fr. 5+ *
Shares chain L.O. with route on right. Tricky at the start and requires a little lateral thinking. - Devil's Spawn - Fr. 4+
Pleasant, should be popular. - Friendly C*untry- V.Diff
The recessed side wall of the cave. Get those shiny cams out,top out for the extra adventure. - Cam Slut - Fr.4*
A romp up the shallow corner just left of the suspended blocky roof.
Animal Walls
A step right are the Animal Walls
- Pretty Pussy - Fr. 6a+
The roof direct to the L hand belay.Not drawn on topo. - Squatting Dog - Fr. 5+ *
After a blocky start haul over the roof then R to shared belay. - Crouching Tiger, Hidden Badger - Fr. 5b **.
Centre of the wall. Staple belay right of the clump of rock samphire. Now fully bolted and excellent climbing. - Busy Beaver - Fr. 6b
Roof on R of wall. - Lola - Fr. 6b+
Steep wall R of chimney - Showgirl - Fr. 6b+
Steeper intro wandering L to share belay of previous. - Cock-a-doodle Do - Fr. 6b
Steep reachy start continuing steeply above. - Cock's Crow Fr 6a+
Roof to start then jugs up groove. - Strutting Cock - Fr. 6a
Steep groove on left side of short wall. - Broody Hen - Fr. 5
Wall left of jutting blocks. Share belay with previous. - Peasant Phlucker - Fr. 5+
A chance to get your leg over....... the protruding block start leading to shared chain of Pheasant Plucker Not drawn on topo.. - Pheasant Plucker - Fr. 6b+ *
Roof on right trending L to chains belay.
Fisherpersons Descent Buttress
The descent ledges to the pebble beach are here,this is halfway along the crags,going L to R west to east
THE FIRST 3 ROUTES ARE NOT ON THE TOPO
- Ground Bait Fr. - 6a
Left hand route of the trio, shared L.O.. - Old Repro Bait Fr. - 5+*
The roof left of Mash yer Bait to a seperate belay. - Mash Yer Bait Fr. - 5
Side wall of cave.
Not on topo - Don't Swallow the Bait Mate - Fr. 6b+
A thoughtful voyage up the left side of the buttress.
topo out of kilter, SHOULD be 4 on topo. - Winged Mirror - E3,5c
Steep and blocky belay back on rusty hoop. Wave damaged so may be altered. No clipping of starting bolts of previous route.🤣 - White Bait - Fr. 6b+ **
Steep start leading to awkward roof. - Fisherman's Friend - E2,5c
Jam through the roof. May well have changed as block dropped out. - Mister Bait - Fr. 6a *
Short but punchy share L.O. on R. - Jail Bait - Fr. 6a*
Similar comments to previous.
West Wing
A short way east of the descent buttress just to the R of another cave are other walls.
- Robbin' Dog - Fr. 4+
L hand route,interest mainly in the start. - Runt of The Litter - Fr. 6a+
Hanging groove, trickier than it looks. Not on topo. - Stranded Dog Fish - Fr. 6b+
Gain and flail onto protruding block, up steeply past pink sling to shared belay on R. - Dog's Blocks - Fr. 6a+ *
Blocky groove, pumpy and a little awkward. Avoid the X block - Pining Dog - Fr. 6b+ *
Stepped roofs L of wet chimney/ corner. Find the kneebar if you can. - Filthy old Bitch - Fr. 6b+ **
Sidewall with roof, tricky to start pumpy to finish. - Damp Bitch - Fr. 5c
Right side of wall, romp up to belay high on arête. - Dog With Two Ticks - Fr. 5+
A corner with traces of green winter seepage.
Just round to the E is another good section of 5 routes. - Bastard Wing - Fr. 6a+ *
Left side of wall,don't stall on the steeper upper part. - Waiting in The Wings - Fr. 6a + *
Steepens near the top. - Wings of Derision - Fr. 6a
Faint corner past stacked blocks - Wing Man (abject apologies-person) - Fr. 6a
Rounded breaks to mantle on finishing ledge, short. - Wing Commander - Fr. 6b
Steep start with good jam easing to belay on sidewall.
The Nose
A short walk across the pebbles is the impressive retaining wall of the small bay and the Nose. A cut off point before Stout Cave. The routes on the Nose start from a scamper up onto high ledges,extra climbingtime can be gained by gaining/ exiting along the obvious ledges leading onto the pebbles
- You Nose It's Fun - Fr. 5+ **
Outrageous fun up the left hand corner and roof. Start climbing from the high ledges.
- Fu*k Nose - Fr. 4c *
The steep blocky corner above the high starting ledges on the bay's retaining wall. - Nose Job - Fr. 5c *
The steep hanging groove on the left. - S'not Yours - Fr. 6a+ **
The left retaining wall of the corner. Tricky final section. - Septum - Fr. 5c
The corner. Stiff pull to gain belay. - S'not Right - Fr. 6a
The right retaining wall of the corner. Vigorous final pull. - Nosey Parcour - Fr. 5a *
Weave through the overhangs on the seaward face of the nose.
First Ascents
Far Western Wing
- Wonder Girl- Sophie Morton, Simon Rawlinson 2020
- Arizona Ted -Roy Thomas
- Czech This Out - Roy Thomas Aaron Martin
- Pilsen Power - Roy Thomas Aaron Martin
- Break Stuff - Tom Williams, Simon Rawlinson 2020
- Gimme A Break - Tom Williams, Simon Rawlinson 2020
- Dreaming of Cleaner Things - Simon Rawlinson, Tom Williams 2020
- Smash and Grab - Simon Rawlinson, Tom Williams 2020
- Up and Under - Simon Rawlinson, Tom Williams 2020
- Factorisation - Roy Thomas,Ed Chapman,Jody may 2022
- Simple Arith - Roy Thomas Ed Chapman jody 2022
- Algy Bra - Roy Thomas Tess, Tickler Ed Chapman 2020
- Trig.. - Simon Rawlinson, Roy Thomas 2020
- Calculus - Roy Thomas, B.Ellend, Ed Chapman 2020
- Sums it Up -Roy Thomas, Ben Dover, Philma Caveety 2020
- Simultaneous Equation - Roy Thomas, Ben Dover, Ed Chapman 2020
- IOLOS'S GEODE - Gareth Torrance, Rhys Evans, Dec 2020
- Iolos Ammonite - Gareth Torrance, Rhys Evans 2020
- Pulling on Puppies - Rhys Evans, Emily Howe Dec 2020
Devil's Sector
- Grasp D.toenail - Ed Chapman T.Osser Roy Thomas 2020
- Devil in detail - Roy Thomas Ed Chapman Huw Janus Alex Gherkin 2020
- Devil time - Roy Thomas Ed Chapman Phil McAvity Ian Gunge
- Dev play - Roy Thomas Ed Chapman Tess Tickle Martin Skinhead 2020
- Dev spawn - Roy Thomas Ed Chapman Darren Despair Mutt Mare 2020
Animal Sector
- Squatting dog - Roy Thomas Huw Janus Goi Ashmore
- Crouching Tiger.. - Simon Rawlinson Roy Thomas 2020
- Busy beaver - Roy Thomas Tess Tickle G.Ashmore 2020
- Lola - Rhys Evans Gareth Torrance 2020
- Showgirl - Rhys Evans Gareth T 2020
- Strutting Cock - Roy Thomas Tess Tickle G.Ashmore 2020
- Broody Hen - Roy Thomas Tess Tickle G.Ashmore 2020
- Peasant Phucker - Tess Tickle Ed Chapman 2020
- Pheasant Plucker - Roy Thomas W.Anker Goi Ashmore 2020
Fisherpersons Descent Buttress
- Ground Bait - Roy Thomas aug 2021
- Old Repro Bait - Roy Thomas Ed Chapman S.C Wirter 29.07.2021
- Mash Yer Bait - Roy Thomas Myles Jordan 25.07.2021
- Don't Swallow the Bait Mate - Roy Thomas Tess Tickle Ed Chapman 2020
- winged Mirror -Roy Thomas Tess Tickle 2020
- White Bait - Roy Thomas F.R Skinner2020
- Fisherman's Friend - Roy Thomas Tess Tickle Ed Chapman 2020
- Mister Bait - Roy Thomas B.Ellend Ed Chapman Mat Weale2020
- Jail Bait - Roy Thomas B.Ellend Ed Chapman Mat Weale 2020
West Wing
- Robbin’ Dog - Roy Thomas Ed Chapman
- Runt...Roy Thomas Jake Griffiths Rob McAllister march 2021
- Stranded Dog Fish-Roy Thomas 2021
- Dog's Blocks-Roy Thomas Phil McAvity jan 2021.
- Pining Dog - Rhys Evans Gareth Torrance 2020
- Filthy Old BitchRoy Thomas G.Ashmore Matt Hirst.april 2021
- Damp Bitch - Roy Thomas Phil McAvity Gareth Torrance 01.12,20
- Dog With Two Ticks - Roy Thomas Sam Cann may 2022
- Bastard Wing - Roy Thomas Ben Dover E.T Jones Steve Strudwick 2020
- Waiting Wing -Roy Thomas Huw Janus Nick O'Neill 2020
- Wings Derision- Roy Thomas Mike Och Goi Ashmore 2020
- Wing Man- Roy Thomas P. Issoph Ed Chapman 2020
- Wing Commander- Roy Thomas Ben Dover Ed Chapman 2020
The Nose
- YouNose It’s Fun -Roy Thomas Gareth Torrance Aaron july 2021.
- Fuck Nose-Roy Thomas Goi Ashmore march 2021
- Nose Job-Roy Thomas S.Pitter Ed Chapman feb 2021
- S'not Yours-Roy Thomas A.Greenun Ed Chapman feb 2021
- Septum -Roy Thomas S.Pitter G.Reenun E.Xpectorate ,Ed Chapman feb 2021.
- S'not Right - Roy Thomas Tess Tickle Ed Chapman2021
- Nosey Parcour -Roy Thomas W.Ankers Ed Chapman2021
