Rams Tor

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Rams Tor
Rams tor overview.jpg
Rock Type Natural Carboniferous Limestone
Climbing Style Sport
Approach Time 15 minutes
Area Gower
Sub Area Caswell Bay to Mumbles
Geodata
WGS-84 Location 51.563556, -3.993518
OS Grid Ref. SS 619 868
WGS-84 Parking Location
GR Parking Location
Base Elevation 5 metres (Other)
General Info
Faces Direction West
Aspect Sunny
Wind Sheltered Seldomly
Climbing Type
Seepage Quick drying
Tidal
Before/After Low Tide 6.0 hours (See Note)
Crags Within 400m

Crab Island Crag, Rams Tor


GR SS 618 868

TIDAL STATUS

Routes left of Nostradamus are Non-tidal. Routes to the right 2-3 hours either side of low water.

BOLTING POLICY

Retro-bolting permissible with first ascensionist’s permission. Replacement of worn fixed gear on a point for point basis with bolts is permissible. New sports routes allowed.

PREAMBLE

This wonderful west facing, mostly non tidal and very accessible crag has been rebolted/tidied at the end of 2008 - a combined effort by Adrian Berry and locals with hardware provided by the SWMC.

The crag contains Gower's first proper sport route; Ride the Funky Wave, Babe equipped and climbed by Nigel Thomas in 1992. [1]

The wall consists of a left hand section which is slabby at the bottom and steep at the top. In contrast the right hand side of the crag contains a slab above a series of stepped roofs.

The crag takes seepage immediately after heavy rain but then dries very quickly.

The routes, like a good Talisker, start rather harshly but have a silky smooth aftertaste.

If you don't like getting your ropes wet then best take a tarpaulin to cover over the rock pools (or fill them in with rubble).

ACCESS

A quicker approach for locals is from the clifftop path from Rotherslade.

Visitors should follow the B4433 (Mumbles Road) through Mumbles to park at the very end of the road past Limeslade Bay. This is just west of the Mumbles headland (GR SS 627 872), it has a small ice cream parlour/cafe above it. Walk west along the asphalt coastal path for about 500m until it starts to climb up some concrete steps. The top of the steps are directly above the crag.

DESCENTS

There is a path (in the loosest sense of the word) down the western spur of the bay - this is best attempted as an ascent than descent and is definitely not advised if wearing shorts.

On the east side of the bay abseil stakes are in place above Ride the Funky Wave.

At maximum low tide it is possible to scramble in and out close to the waters edge on the eastern side of the bay.

THE ROUTES

The routes are described from left to right. For ease of identification, the first three lines are bolted using stainless steel staples.

  1. Rampage - Fr7a+ **
    Starting from a large flat block perched above a drop about 10m from the left end of the crag this route covers some very steep territory, but on surprisingly big holds. Pull into a niche and to a projecting block then up and left to sloping holds on the lip. Go up and right to a roof then traverse left until a stretch reaches a break and more reachy moves to 2 jugs. A stiff move to pockets and a stretch left to a sloping ledge brings the belay in reach. Steep !!

  2. The Constant Gardener - Fr6c **
    The second line of bolts on the left above a conglomerate ledge at the right end of the large low roof. Easy until the big roof, which is crossed leftwards on good holds in an amazingly exposed position.

  3. Air Display - Fr.7a+ **
    A few metres right of The Constant Gardener is a large flake. Start up the flake and continue directly until a cleaned out corner to the left can be gained. A rising rightwards line leads to a tough technical finale past the last staple.

  4. The Cool Crux Clan - Fr.7a *
    A good line with a hard crux. Start 5m left of the north (left) end of the main roof, below a faint groove at the top. Climb the line of bolts just to the right of this.

  5. Ride The Funky Wave, Babe - Fr.7a **

    A superb climb. Start at a boulder problem roof then up through the second band via a tough left sidepull. The route then bears slightly right onto the slab and delicately up.

    • The main roof starts here.

      Chris Wyatt on Renaissance
  6. Rain Dance - Fr.7b **
    Start about 1m right of where the obvious roof starts. Gain this fairly directly and cross it with a hard move at the lip.

    • There is a space of about 10m before the next route on the right.

  7. Hypocritical Mass - Fr.7b+ *
    Start just left of the left-hand boulder jammed at the base of the crag. Make a desperate move to start, then gain the roof easily. Cross the roof on crystals to a thin pull round the lip and finish easily up the slab.

  8. Renaissance - Fr.6c+ *
    This route requires a clip stick to get the first clip. Pull up the rope to jugs then aim for the obvious step in the lip. A hard pull gets the climber established on the slab.

  9. Nostradamus - Fr.7b **
    Start below a flake and crack. Make a series of technical and strenuous pulls through the roof stack to a lie down rest under the main roof. Grope bindly over the main roof and pull onto the slab.

  10. The Loneliness Of The Long Distance Runner - Fr.7b
    Start just to the right of Nostradamus and take a bold and fairly direct line to the top. A long reach is required.

  11. Totally Clips - Fr.7c **
    The last bolted line on the right

  12. One Small Step - E3,5c *
    Right at the far end of the crag, either leap to a jug in space, or make a 6a move. Traverse right, then up to finish.

    • Other stuff includes:

  13. Unseconded - Fr.7a *
    A left to right traverse of the upper slab. Start as for The Cool Crux Clan and move across and slightly up into Rain Dance. From Rain Dance, step down, across and back up, then continue at about the same level to a final slight rise to reach Captain Hook. Finish as for Captain Hook.

  14. Captain Hook - Fr.7b
    A link up. Start as for Nostradamus. Finish as for Renaissance


Rams Tor

FIRST ASCENTS

Climbers on Rain Dance

  1. B. Gregory 17.10.2009
  2. B. Gregory 13.07.2009
  3. A. Rosier 25.07.2009
  4. A.Berry, G.Morris 00.00.1993
  5. A.Berry 00.00.1992
  6. A.Berry, P.Christie 00.00.1993
  7. A.Berry 00.00.1993
  8. A Berry 21.12.2008
  9. A.Berry 00.00.1993
  10. A.Berry, N. Thomas 00.00.1993
  11. A.Berry, J.Brown 00.00.1993
  12. A.Berry 00.00.1996
  13. A.Berry 00.00.0000

Notes

  1. See, A. Berry, Gower Sport Climbing 1997), p.2. However, in Gower & S.E. Wales (2003) this route is identified as being climbed by,"A.Berry 00.00.1992"